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Loewe Explores Social Media and Masculinity in Paris Fashion Show

A model wears a creation for Hermes as part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)
A model wears a creation for Hermes as part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)
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Loewe Explores Social Media and Masculinity in Paris Fashion Show

A model wears a creation for Hermes as part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)
A model wears a creation for Hermes as part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection presented in Paris, Saturday, Jan. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

In a dazzling universe where high-art, fashion and celebrity collide, Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Loewe explored modern masculinity, set against the backdrop of our social media-saturated world. The show space, transformed by artist Richard Hawkins’ vibrant pop art, was a visual assault on the senses, setting the stage for a collection as rich in narrative as in aesthetic. Amidst the audience, actor Jamie Dornan was spotted, amusedly gazing at fleeting images of himself woven into pulp fiction video collages that spanned from paparazzi shots to art history and social media, The Associated Press said.
LOEWE’S SOCIAL MEDIA COLLAGE Central to this digital-age collection was the theme of divergence. Anderson skillfully eschewed the idea of one single aesthetic, presenting a full, fabulous collage of social media characters, each uniquely styled — and seemingly caught off-guard, as they might be by the lens of TMZ or Us Weekly.
Be warned — these imagined figures were not typical celebrities. They were Anderson's vision, so the off-kilter and unexpected abounded.
A denim bow collar draped dramatically to the shin, while a pink top appeared to have accidentally slipped down, revealing a bare torso in an unintended fashion. A single-sided big buckle belt added an element of spontaneity, as if its VIP wearer had been caught without even enough time to fasten it.
Elsewhere, one oversized camel coat was nonchalantly draped over bare skin, paired with a blue sneaker sans sock, evoking the image of a celebrity hastily stepping out for breakfast, unwittingly becoming the subject of a paparazzi’s lens. There were ridiculously long cardigans, leather pants and tracksuits — spanning the gamut of modern human existence.
The collection reached its apex with Hawkins-inspired pieces, particularly the multicolored pants that married contemporary flair with a nod to the traditional harlequin attire, showcasing Anderson’s talent for fusing historical references with modern design.
This season, Anderson ventured onto more provocative terrain, grappling with the complexities of the digital age. His latest display shows how the ever-evolving dynamics of social media and celebrity are reshaping modern masculinity.
HERMES' NICHANIAN REIMAGINES HISTORIC CHIC FOR MODERN MEN Véronique Nichanian’s latest men’s show for Hermès was an interplay of history and modernity, reimagining 19th-century elegance with a contemporary twist. The show, a sartorial journey through time, blending her signature luxurious simplicity with an audacious foray into historical fashion.
The collars this season were a nod to the past, evoking the ruffled cowls and buttoned neck fastenings of coats reminiscent of the 19th century. A standout piece was an urban hood, crafted to resemble a leather panel at the neck, pairing seamlessly with the collection’s theme of thick, multi-layered clothing. This layering was not just about warmth but also about creating a rich, textural narrative — sweaters upon shirts, coats layered on coats, all accentuated by large lapels and dramatic, upturned collars. Adding to the dramatic flair were the large black platform boots, grounding each outfit with a bold historic feel.
The traditional met the modern when Prince of Wales check suits arrived on the runway, diffused with a modern twist — a flash of yellow in a soft knit sweater, for instance. This mixing of the traditional with bursts of color is a significant trend this season.
Nichanian, who has been the artistic director of Hermès men’s universe since 1988, has continually evolved the brand’s aesthetic, moving from the formal styles of the late eighties to a more relaxed, modern approach that values simplicity and quality materials. Her designs mix intelligent, modern luxury with a touch of playfulness.
VALENTINO'S MEN IN BLACK Amid the gilded backdrop of the Monnaie de Paris, designer Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a vision of Valentino that subtly balanced artistic expression with practicality.
The collection opened with a clear nod to classic professionalism: suits in black paired with black ties and oversized jackets from the '80s era, signaling a readiness for the business world. This initial presentation of the “Men in Black” aesthetic was both a homage to traditional menswear and a hint at its evolution. The oversized white jacket added a touch of debonair flair, suggesting a new, more relaxed approach to formal wear — and a bid to appeal to a certain client.
Utilitarian workman outfits and denim pieces amid such formality suggested a blending of different worlds. Piccioli's strategic flashes of Valentino’s signature vermillion also added a layer of depth. This use of color seemed to symbolize individuality within the constraints of business in what was a welcome touch.
The craftsmanship in the collection was evident but always subtle. A coat with long, weighty lengths felt fashion forward, representing Valentino’s heritage of luxury tailoring and eye to the future. However, the collection as a whole maintained a more subdued tone, focusing on the saleable, wearable and practical.
BALMAIN HAS EYES ON YOU With the energy of the '80s' New Romantics, Balmain’s Saturday night show was a feast for the senses. Eyes and lips took center stage in Olivier Rousteing’s latest fashion spectacle.
Against a backdrop of black, vibrant colors burst forth in a display that was both a nod to the house’s heritage and a step towards pure, unadulterated fun.
The show opened with a stunning statement piece: a bejeweled double-breasted coat adorned with giant eyes on its sleeves, black lapels framing the striking visuals. This set the tone for a collection that was as much about making a statement as it was about the clothes themselves. A white shirt paired with a tie featuring a giant pair of rouged lips continued the theme of bold, graphic imagery.
Polka dots danced across loose coats, punctuated with eye-popping colors like violet and bright canary, a nod to Rousteing’s blending of the traditional with the unexpected. The show was a riot of color blocking and vibrant prints, including an entire suit ensemble featuring a trompe l’oeil print of a man by the water.
The display also featured models from different every background in testament to Rousteing’s commitment to diversity.
Balmain, under the creative leadership of Olivier Rousteing, has evolved into a brand that not only reveres its rich heritage but also boldly embraces the future. From its early adoption of the swallow motif in the 1950s to Rousteing’s modern interpretation of this legacy, Balmain has pushed the boundaries of fashion. And had lots of fun doing so.

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Fashion

The Olympics Are Coming to the Capital of Fashion. Expect Uniforms Befitting a Paris Runway

This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)
This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)
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The Olympics Are Coming to the Capital of Fashion. Expect Uniforms Befitting a Paris Runway

This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)
This combination of images released by Stella Jean shows fashion to be worn by Haitian Olympic athletes at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. (Stella Jean via AP)

Sure, they call it the City of Light. But Paris is also the City of Fashion, one of most influential fashion capitals of the world for decades, no, centuries (remember Louis XIV?)

So it’s no surprise that fashion designers across the globe are busy getting their national team uniforms ready for their unique spotlight. When it comes to high-end Olympic fashion — be it for Friday's festive opening ceremonies, or for competition — all runways lead to Paris.

Stella Jean will be there, styling each of Haiti’s dozen or so athletes herself. Jean, an Italian-Haitian designer based in Rome, figures she has exactly two seconds, on opening ceremony night, to make an impression on the world — an impression that may reverberate for years. “For these athletes, it’s a victory just to be here,” says Jean, whose vivid, colorful design is intended to highlight the cultural vitality of the Caribbean nation.

On the other end of the size (and budget) spectrum is Ralph Lauren, who will outfit hundreds of athletes of the US team at opening and closing ceremonies, for the ninth time. Lauren, who's presenting a casual look of blue jeans and blazers, is of course one of the world’s richest designers, along with Giorgio Armani, who has been designing Italy’s uniforms since 2012.

Countless other designers have gotten involved — including, this year, more young, “indie” labels eager to make a splash. It’s also a chance to emphasize qualities such as sustainability in fashion and adaptability, too, as in designs for the Paralympics.

“Designers and manufacturers now realize this can be a huge platform for them, for many things,” says Alison Brown, who co-hosts a podcast on all things Olympics, “Keep the Flame Alive.” For example: “Sustainability is a huge buzzword now for this whole Olympics,” she says.

And so is style — because, well, Paris.

“You always want to represent your country, and you want to represent the athletes. But it seems like this time, the pressure to do it well has been turned up a notch,” Brown says.

Some emerging details on various uniform designs:

Canada: A focus on inclusivity, adaptability During the design process, the team from Lululemon, outfitting Canada’s athletes for the second time, says they listened carefully to the athletes, and how they felt in the clothes. “When you feel your best, you perform your best,” says Audrey Reilly, creative director for Team Canada at the athletic apparel company.

She recalls listening to Alison Levine, a Paralympian who uses a wheelchair, and learning the athlete had nothing suitable to train in — so she wore medical scrubs.

“I was shocked that a professional athlete had to do that,” Reilly said in an interview. So we said, “Let’s investigate.” One result was a “seated carpenter pant,” part of a collection intended to be inclusive and adaptable. Other features include special closures to facilitate putting on and taking off garments, and pockets at the knees so an athlete like Levine can access her phone when training.

The collection covers all aspects of Team Canada’s journey, from travel to the games, to opening and medal ceremonies, to training — everything except competition. To combat the expected searing Paris heat, Lululemon, which has a four-Games deal with the team, paid special attention to ventilation and wicking.

And for opening ceremonies, designers created what they call a “tapestry of pride.” Hand-drawn and engineered into the fabric, it includes 10 animals — nine representing the provinces of Canada and one representing France. “We wanted to evoke all of Canada, coast to coast and north to south,” Reilly says.

Haiti: “They know their bodies are a flag” Stella Jean is used to designing beautiful clothes. But beauty for beauty’s sake was not a consideration in her designs for Haiti’s team. It was all about the message.

“This will be the first good news coming out of Haiti in at least the last three years,” she says, the athletes' appearance a counter-message to news about political turmoil, poverty or natural disasters. “So, I felt the responsibility to say as much as I can about the country."

For that, Jean is collaborating with Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, whose vibrant painting will be incorporated into the ceremonial uniforms — a brightly hued skirt for women and pants for men, paired with traditional items like a chambray shirt. The designs have been constructed from “leftover” fabric — sustainability, yes, but not because it is trendy, says Jean, but because in Haiti it’s both a tradition and a necessity.

Jean calls the Haitian athletes “ambassadors.”

“These ambassadors will be there, in Paris,” she says, "and they all know, even if they are very, very young, how important their presence is — and that it’s not just about performance. They know their bodies are a flag."

USA: “Nothing says America like blue jeans” For the last summer games in steamy Tokyo, Ralph Lauren outfitted athletes with something cool — literally — a technology that directed heat away through a fan device at the back of the neck.

For steamy Paris, he’s introducing another type of cool: good old American jeans.

“Nothing says America like blue jeans, especially when we’re in Paris,” said David Lauren, the label’s chief branding and innovation officer and the founder’s son, upon revealing the design in June.

For its ninth turn dressing Team USA for opening and closing ceremonies, Ralph Lauren says it will be fitting each athlete personally. For the opening ceremony they’ll be wearing tailored navy blazers with blue-and-white striped Oxford shirts — and those blue jeans.

For the closing ceremony, the team will wear white jeans with matching jackets in red, white and blue. Lauren called the closing ceremony looks “more graphic, more fun, a little more exciting.”

Mexico: A unisex approach, melding tradition with modern flair Marijose Rivera was chosen as designer of the Mexican ceremony uniform after an internal contest in her company, Haber Holding. To land her project, the 26-year-old designer devoted weeks to sketching.

“We’re not always what we’ve shown the world ... we are much more than that,” Rivera said from Mexico City. “I wanted to represent Mexico as something different, something avant-garde, fashionable, but without neglecting what we are (in) culture and tradition.”

Her designs are unisex, featuring a casual overshirt, or shirt jacket, with accents of vibrant “rosa mexicano” (Mexican pink) over the shoulders, collar, sleeve and pocket flap. “We want to break paradigms not only in terms of design but also in this sense that pink is not only for girls,” said Rivera.

On the back of the jackets is a sketch of the Mexican monument Angel de la Independencia, also known as Victoria Alada (Winged Victory), located in Mexico City and the epicenter of many national celebrations. The sleeves feature prints representing “milagritos,” or artisanal amulets.

The milagritos “are a little piece of all of us for the athletes,” Rivera said, “to let them know that although we're on the other side of the world, we are supporting them, and we are very proud to see them there."

India: Mixing old and new Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani is known for his ability to meld traditional elements with a modern sensibility. And that's what he and his menswear brand Tasva has tried to do for his country’s Olympic team.

Tahiliani told GQ India that when he began doing research for India’s opening ceremony uniform, he noted a trend of countries incorporating their national flags into the design. So he began working on a design featuring the tricolor hues of saffron, white and green.

For men, Tahiliani began with a kurta, the typical Asian long and loose shirt. He paired that with a bundi, or traditional sleeveless jacket. He told the magazine he wears a bundi every day, inspired by his father, who was an admiral in the Indian navy.

After feedback from the Olympic committee, the designer moved away from a uniform-like look for women, opting for a sari, which he says “can flatter any body type, and that’s exactly what we want for our female athletes.”

All the designs incorporate embroidery of saffron and green. “The goal is to create outfits that empower our athletes to represent India with pride and confidence,” Tahiliani said.

Italy: A mix of elegance and tradition Italian athletes will be elegantly attired in Emporio Armani uniforms, as they have for every Olympics since 2012.

The podium tracksuit is emblazoned with “W Italia,” shorthand for “Eviva Italia,” or, “Long live Italy.” The motto could extend to designer Giorgio Armani himself, who turned 90 on July 11.

“Seeking new solutions for the athlete’s kit, which must blend elegance with practicality, is always an exciting challenge for me,″ Armani said last year when the national kit was presented at the Spring-Summer 2024 runway show for the youthful and sporty Emporio Armani brand.

The athletes’ tracksuits are in Armani blue, which has long been the color of the designer’s daily uniform, either as a T-shirt or fine pullover.

Athletes will have no excuse for not knowing the national anthem: the beginning is printed inside the collar of the polo shirts, and the entire first verse is inside the jackets.

Britain: Four nations, not one The 60-year old British clothing brand Ben Sherman, known for its menswear, is creating Britain’s Olympic uniforms for the third time, and this year wants to remind the world that Britain is four nations, not one.

Its design for the opening and closing ceremonies “represents the unity and diversity of the UK, reflecting the rich tapestry of our nation’s identity.” says the label’s creative director, Mark Williams.

Williams described in an email his new four-nation floral motif, featuring a rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock, serving as “a nod to the unique identities and histories of England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.”

Williams stresses the motif is not purely decorative, but meant to send a message of collaboration and unity. His floral motif appears is in colors of blue and red — on polo shirts, worn with a bomber jacket, and also on colorful socks, in a collaboration with the Happy Socks brand.

South Korea: Inspiration from a national symbol South Korea’s athletes will sport uniforms inspired by the country’s national “taegeuk” circular symbol, which occupies the center of its flag. The red-and-blue circle connotes harmony between the negative cosmic forces of the blue portion and the positive cosmic forces of the red.

The motifs on the North Face-branded uniforms also include one of the four black trigrams (groups of bars) from the flag’s corners, according to Youngone Outdoor Co., an official partner of the country’s Olympic committee which produces and distributes North Face clothing in South Korea. The trigram being used symbolizes water.

A uniform for medal ceremonies features a jacket depicting the indigo blue waters off the country’s east coast in an ink-wash painting style, a red belt and black pants, Youngone says.

Team Korea’s uniform for opening and closing ceremonies was designed by Musinsa Standard, a private-label brand run by South Korean online fashion store Musinsa. The all-light blue uniform includes a blazer, its lining engraved with traditional white and blue porcelain designs, a traditional-style belt and slacks.