Seoul Authorities Find Toxic Substances in Shein and Temu Products

This photo taken on July 26, 2018 shows founder of e-commerce company Temu, also known as Pinduoduo, Colin Huang delivering a speech during the launch of the company's initial public offering in Shanghai. (Photo by CNS / AFP) / China OUT
This photo taken on July 26, 2018 shows founder of e-commerce company Temu, also known as Pinduoduo, Colin Huang delivering a speech during the launch of the company's initial public offering in Shanghai. (Photo by CNS / AFP) / China OUT
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Seoul Authorities Find Toxic Substances in Shein and Temu Products

This photo taken on July 26, 2018 shows founder of e-commerce company Temu, also known as Pinduoduo, Colin Huang delivering a speech during the launch of the company's initial public offering in Shanghai. (Photo by CNS / AFP) / China OUT
This photo taken on July 26, 2018 shows founder of e-commerce company Temu, also known as Pinduoduo, Colin Huang delivering a speech during the launch of the company's initial public offering in Shanghai. (Photo by CNS / AFP) / China OUT

Women's accessories sold by some of the world's most popular online shopping firms contained toxic substances sometimes hundreds of times above acceptable levels, authorities in Seoul said Wednesday.

Chinese giants including Shein, Temu and AliExpress have skyrocketed in popularity around the world in recent years, offering a vast selection of trendy clothes and accessories at stunningly low prices.

The explosive growth has led to increased scrutiny of their business practices and safety standards, including in the European Union and South Korea, where Seoul officials have been conducting weekly inspections of items sold by online platforms.

In the most recent inspection, 144 products from Shein, AliExpress and Temu were tested, and multiple products from all companies failed to meet legal standards.

Shoes from Shein were found to contain significantly high levels of phthalates -- chemicals used to make plastics more flexible -- with one pair 229 times above the legal limit.

"Phthalate-based plasticizers affect reproductive functions such as sperm count reduction, and can cause infertility and even premature birth," an official from Seoul's environmental health team told AFP.

One such chemical "is classified as a human carcinogen by the International Cancer Institute, so special care should be taken to avoid long-term contact with the human body", they added.

Formaldehyde, a chemical commonly used in home building products, was detected in Shein's caps at double the allowable threshold.

Two bottles of nail polish from Shein were found to have dioxane -- a possible human carcinogen that can cause liver poisoning -- at levels more than 3.6 times the allowed limit and methanol concentrations 1.4 times above the acceptable level.

Shein told AFP that they "work closely with international third-party testing agencies... to regularly carry out risk-based sampling tests to ensure that products provided by suppliers meet Shein's product safety standards".

"Our suppliers are required to comply with the controls and standards we have put in place as well as the product safety laws and regulations in the countries we operate in," the company added.

Seoul authorities found sandals from Temu contained lead in the insoles at levels more than 11 times the permissible limit.

Temu did not immediately respond to an AFP request for comment.

Seoul officials have asked for the products to be removed from sale, according to a government statement.

"Products that exceed the legal limit are products that directly contact the body, such as leather sandals and hats, so citizens should pay special attention," said Kim Tae-hee, an official in the capital.

"The Seoul Metropolitan Government will continue to conduct safety tests periodically and disclose the results."

In April, the European Union added Shein to its list of digital firms that are big enough to come under stricter safety rules -- including measures to protect customers from unsafe products, especially those that could be harmful to minors.

Shein and Temu have followed Chinese e-commerce titan Alibaba in challenging Amazon, especially by making inroads in the US market.



Notre Dame Cathedral’s Reopening Spectacle Capped a Stellar Year for Luxury House LVMH

CEO of LVMH Bernard Arnault, left, Antoine Arnault, CEO of Berluti , center right, and members of the Arnault family talk in Notre Dame Cathedral before France's iconic cathedral is formally reopening its doors for the first time since a devastating fire nearly destroyed the 861-year-old landmark in 2019, Saturday Dec.7, 2024 in Paris. (Ludovic Marin/Pool via AP, File)
CEO of LVMH Bernard Arnault, left, Antoine Arnault, CEO of Berluti , center right, and members of the Arnault family talk in Notre Dame Cathedral before France's iconic cathedral is formally reopening its doors for the first time since a devastating fire nearly destroyed the 861-year-old landmark in 2019, Saturday Dec.7, 2024 in Paris. (Ludovic Marin/Pool via AP, File)
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Notre Dame Cathedral’s Reopening Spectacle Capped a Stellar Year for Luxury House LVMH

CEO of LVMH Bernard Arnault, left, Antoine Arnault, CEO of Berluti , center right, and members of the Arnault family talk in Notre Dame Cathedral before France's iconic cathedral is formally reopening its doors for the first time since a devastating fire nearly destroyed the 861-year-old landmark in 2019, Saturday Dec.7, 2024 in Paris. (Ludovic Marin/Pool via AP, File)
CEO of LVMH Bernard Arnault, left, Antoine Arnault, CEO of Berluti , center right, and members of the Arnault family talk in Notre Dame Cathedral before France's iconic cathedral is formally reopening its doors for the first time since a devastating fire nearly destroyed the 861-year-old landmark in 2019, Saturday Dec.7, 2024 in Paris. (Ludovic Marin/Pool via AP, File)

The reopening of Notre Dame was a solemn celebration of cultural and spiritual renewal. Yet for some, the historic cathedral's revival also felt like a meticulously choreographed branding event from LVMH and other luxury conglomerates.

Bernard Arnault, the lowkey billionaire behind luxury powerhouse LVMH and a key Notre Dame donor who regularly tops the list of the world’s richest men, was at the center of the celebration. He was surrounded by his family, the French president, the archbishop and clergy, and the unmistakable symbols of his luxury empire’s influence, including its brands Louis Vuitton and Dior.

First lady Brigitte Macron held a conspicuous Lady Dior handbag. Louis Vuitton artistic director Pharrell Williams performed kitted out in Louis Vuitton. South African soprano Pretty Yende also contributed with a rendition of “Amazing Grace” while wearing a Dior gown adorned with 110 carats of diamonds.

Welcome to the “inauguration of the LVMH arena,” commented television journalist Yann Barthès about the cathedral ceremony this week.

LVMH has enjoyed unprecedented visibility in France in 2024, especially as a high-profile sponsor of the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Some questioned the taste of such brand prominence occurring in a sacred space like the beloved Gothic monument, while noting LVMH's crucial contribution to the reconstruction.

“You can’t blame monsieur Arnault, a businessman, to do business. But people are now asking if it was an appropriate venue for a display like that,” said fashion PR consultant Theo Fontaine.

“It’s been a great PR year for LVMH—that’s for sure,” Fontaine added. “The Olympics and now Notre Dame. The whole world has been watching.”

Not far behind Arnault sat representatives of Kering, adding another layer to the ongoing rivalry between France’s two largest luxury conglomerates.

Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault attended alongside his wife, actress Salma Hayek, who wore a tailored Gucci coat. Gucci is Kering-owned.

The event, marking the culmination of an 840-million-euro restoration effort following a devastating 2019 fire, brought together global dignitaries and cultural icons.

The Notre Dame restoration united France’s corporate giants. Arnault’s 200-million-euro donation was the largest, followed by 100-million-euro contributions from Pinault and the Bettencourt-Meyers family of L’Oréal. Over 250 companies and 2,000 craftspeople contributed to the five-year restoration effort, which reconstructed the spire, repaired vaulted ceilings and restored stained-glass windows.

As the bells of Notre Dame rang out across Paris, the cathedral’s rebirth stood as a testament to collective effort — but also for some as a symbol of how France’s seats of power and its prized luxury industry are inextricably intertwined.

French President Emmanuel Macron and Brigitte Macron welcomed heads of state, including President-elect Donald Trump, Britain’s Prince William and Elon Musk, to a ceremony steeped in tradition — and high fashion.

Arnault attended with his family, including Dior chair and CEO Delphine Arnault, LVMH image and environment director Antoine Arnault, Moët Hennessy deputy CEO Alexandre Arnault, LVMH Watches CEO Frédéric Arnault, and Louis Vuitton product and development director for watches Jean Arnault. Antoine Arnault’s wife, model Natalia Vodianova, was also in attendance.

“I am proud of the outpouring of generosity from all over the world, to which the LVMH Group and my family wanted to contribute from the very beginning, which has enabled the restoration of this jewel of our heritage,” Antoine Arnault said in a statement posted to LinkedIn.

“This extraordinary project highlighted the excellence of French know-how and the talent of nearly 2,000 architects, workers and craftsmen of all trades,” he added.

Yet, public reaction was mixed

Papuna Biliseishvili, 24, who watched the ceremony in Paris, quipped, “If the devil wears Prada, the cathedral wears Louis Vuitton and Dior.”

Cari Lefebvre, 27, said “this is the most PR the Catholic Church has seen in centuries.”

Marie-Claire Dubois, a 45-year-old Catholic worshiper from Paris, expressed her disapproval. “This is a sacred place. It is beautiful that these companies contributed, but the branding should have remained outside.”

While the grandeur of the reopening sparked debate, Arnault’s donation and LVMH’s contributions to the cathedral restoration—including 36 300-year-old oak trees for the spire—have been widely praised.

LVMH’s influence at the Paris 2024 Olympics further cemented its stellar year. The company crafted custom display cases for 5,000 medals and the Olympic torch, showcasing its artistry and precision. Berluti, another LVMH brand, designed costumes for the opening ceremony, while an Olympic-themed Vogue World fashion show, supported by the group, drew international attention during Paris Couture Week.

Tensions between Arnault and Pinault, the driving forces behind LVMH and Kering respectively, were on full display with their brands’ prominent appearances at the cathedral. This rivalry dates back decades to a bitter bidding war over Gucci in the late 1990s, which Pinault’s Kering ultimately won. Since then, their competition has extended beyond fashion into the realms of art, philanthropy and global influence.

In Notre Dame, French luxury was also championed by the French Catholic church — and was on display even in the stitch of the liturgical vestments. French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac was called on by the church to design the cathedral’s 2,000 garments. The unorthodox designs were fun, modern — and perhaps shockingly minimalist. They ensured that even the clergy’s robes reflected high-fashion artistry, further underscoring the intersection of faith and fashion at the event.