Patricio Campillo Makes New York Fashion Week Debut, Championing Mexican Tradition

The Manhattan skyline is seen at sunset from Louis Armstrong Stadium during the US Open tennis tournament at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in New York City, on September 2, 2024. (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU / AFP)
The Manhattan skyline is seen at sunset from Louis Armstrong Stadium during the US Open tennis tournament at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in New York City, on September 2, 2024. (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU / AFP)
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Patricio Campillo Makes New York Fashion Week Debut, Championing Mexican Tradition

The Manhattan skyline is seen at sunset from Louis Armstrong Stadium during the US Open tennis tournament at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in New York City, on September 2, 2024. (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU / AFP)
The Manhattan skyline is seen at sunset from Louis Armstrong Stadium during the US Open tennis tournament at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in New York City, on September 2, 2024. (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU / AFP)

New York Fashion Week kicks off on Friday, with designers showcasing their spring/summer collections - both legacy brands like Tommy Hilfiger, and new kids on the block, such as Mexican designer Patricio Campillo.

Campillo will be making his NYFW debut on Saturday at the Public Hotel with a men's line that he says was inspired by Mexican volcanoes and how they can "modify a space."

"The brand's patterns are based on a suit that my grandfather gave my dad when my dad turned 18, and this suit was given to me a few years ago," said Campillo in an interview, according to Reuters.

Negotiating his career as a self-taught designer had been difficult without the benefit of another Mexican designer who had previously broken through, he said, adding that he hoped his success could help those coming up.

"Mexico is a place full of talent, full of people willing to work and I believe that nobody grows alone," said Campillo.

Campillo has already attracted plaudits and celebrity customers, and fashion and beauty writer Asia Milia Ware at New York Magazine's The Cut predicted he will walk away with even more attention following his NYFW appearance.

"The right eyes can land you into a retailer, which is a big goal for a lot of these designers," she said. "Or the right eyes from an editor can land you press, whether that's landing you on a cover, landing you a feature which can really just be dynamic and really life-changing for these designers. So, it's a big moment."
This season there are roughly 60 designers on the official calendar, plus many more off-calendar.
Ware said the most anticipated shows were Alaia and Off-White. "They normally show in Paris, but this year they're showing in New York, and they're like the two hottest tickets to get in the city this season," she said.
Bold reds and power shoulders would be central themes of collections, she predicted.



Milan Fashion Week Opens with Light, Ethereal Yet Grounded Looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni 

A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
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Milan Fashion Week Opens with Light, Ethereal Yet Grounded Looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni 

A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025, on September 17, 2024 in Milan. (AFP)

Just as the northern hemisphere starts the wardrobe transition from summer to fall, runway shows in the world’s fashion capitals seek to stir the imagination, and desire, for the next warm weather season.

Milan designers have been ambiguous about seasons in recent fashion weeks, with summer collections not corresponding to the soaring temperatures. That was not the case during the first day of Milan Fashion Week previews on Tuesday, featuring diaphanous, dreamy summery dresses, alongside crisp cotton.

Here are highlights from the first day of Milan Fashion Week of runway previews of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025:

Fendi centenary

Fendi honored its upcoming centenary with a Spring-Summer 2025 collection that paid elegant homage to the founding era, from art deco detailing to a flapper silhouette, light on the fringe.

In snippets of conversation that punctuated the show’s soundtrack, Silvia Venturini Fendi emphasized the matriarchal lineage that has made her the third generation to play a key Fendi role. “My mother was the energy of the house,” Venturini Fendi recalled.

The collection by Fendi womenswear artistic director Kim Jones sought to spotlight “100 years of very chic Roman women,” combining ready-to-wear with artisanal detailing of couture. Diaphanous dresses with art-deco embroidery were grounded with boots. Slip dresses were turned upside down as skirts, worn with a sheer top embellished with crystals. Knitwear defined the silhouette, under sheers or hugging the body over diaphanous trousers.

Bags by Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories, were soft and huggable, often carried in triplicate.

Ferretti’s artisanal summer

Alberta Ferretti showed her summery creations in the courtyard of a former cloister, now a science museum, with an elegant dome rising in the background, the juxtaposition emphasizing the artisanal heritage in her collection.

Instead of embellishments, Ferretti focused on technique. Laser cut cotton created an almost lace effect. Individual cotton leaves were stitched together as dresses or accents on bodices. Pleating elevated dresses, while boxer shorts gave a casual flair.

The day looks were in earthy tones of sand, ecru and black. For evening, chiffon dresses flowed in bright shades.

“They are real summer clothes, because the world in the summer is very warm. I know a show is supposed to be a show but reality is important,” Ferretti said backstage.

Marni’s essential beauty

Marni maintained its zany heritage under creative director Francesco Risso, with a wardrobe of whimsically tailored everyday looks for him and for her.

The female silhouette was swathed in form-fitting dresses and skirts, often with deep back slits, sometimes with a mermaid flair. Feathers, boas and crystal embellishments were pretty, and sometimes off-beat accents.

For him, broad shouldered jackets contrasted with skinny trousers. An off-skew bow on a chiffony blouson was kept aloft through some sartorial trickery.

Mixing art with fashion, models emerged in threes, and wandered through the showroom full of wooden chairs on conversational groups to a percussive piano trio.

A sense of Marni whimsy permeated the collection, partly but not only through a series of hats with a yesteryear military flair made light with feathery accents. Risso appeared to confirm his Napoleonic intentions, taking a bow with his hand thrust inside his jacket.

“We like things that are bold,” Risso said after the show.