Tory Burch Evokes Sport at New York Fashion Week

Models walk the runway for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 9, 2024. (Photo by Yuki IWAMURA / AFP)
Models walk the runway for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 9, 2024. (Photo by Yuki IWAMURA / AFP)
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Tory Burch Evokes Sport at New York Fashion Week

Models walk the runway for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 9, 2024. (Photo by Yuki IWAMURA / AFP)
Models walk the runway for Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week in New York on September 9, 2024. (Photo by Yuki IWAMURA / AFP)

American designer Tory Burch unveiled a collection imbued with the spirit of sport -- but without venturing into sportswear -- at New York Fashion Week on Monday.

Freedom and movement were reflected in loose-fitting wool pants and wrap dresses, while power shone through in the assembly of different pieces, fabrics and cuts on the models marching down the catwalk.

"It's more about the spirit and the essence of sport," Burch, whose shows have become a staple of New York Fashion Week, told Agence France Presse of the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

That means it's about "movement, about freedom, precision" as a starting point, she explained, adding: "The word 'synchronicity' was something I thought about."

Burch, who this year celebrated the 20th anniversary of her eponymous fashion house, said: "I wanted to be careful with not having too many different prints, but I wanted it to come across some textures and the fabrics and the color well."

Among the standouts was an ensemble of ultra-light suede pants with a rope belt and a skin-tight sweater patterned in red and white.

A transparent white jersey shirt with ruffles and overly long sleeves was paired with its formal counterpart, brown wool pants.

Once again, the Pennsylvania native broke from the style that made her famous, a combination of preppy New England with a touch of the bohemian.

A regular at New York's iconic venues, Burch chose the top floor of the former Domino sugar factory in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, with its breathtaking view over Manhattan, for her show.

Along with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, the show was attended by actresses Michelle Williams, Elizabeth Olsen and Kirsten Stewart.

"I want to have a dialogue, but I want to keep evolving and taking it in new directions," the designer said, adding: "I think it's important to have some continuity."



Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
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Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)

Birkenstock beat market expectations for fourth-quarter results on robust demand for its pricey footwear and forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025, sending the company's shares up 7% on Wednesday.

With fresh styles becoming a priority for consumers, Birkenstock's sandals and closed-toe clogs have drawn new customers both at its own stores and at retailers.

The company bypassed steep discounting trends evident during the holiday shopping season, which Birkenstock executives said was off to a strong start globally.

"The expansion of ranges into more closed-toe silhouette has helped boost revenue, given that they offer multi-season wear," Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said.

Germany-based Birkenstock's average selling prices across its product range were up 8% in fiscal 2024, in part due to higher sales of clogs, the company said, adding that closed-toe styles now made up about a third of its business.

The company has invested in expanding its global store presence and increasing manufacturing capacity this year to meet demand.

While it led to a 330-basis point drop in gross margins in fiscal 2024, Birkenstock forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025 as it ramps up production from new facilities.

The company reported fourth-quarter revenue of 455.8 million euros ($478.27 million), compared with the average analyst estimate of 439.2 million euros, according to data compiled by LSEG.

However, Birkenstock's forecast for fiscal 2025 revenue to increase between 15% and 17% was below estimates of 17.5% growth.

"It would appear with this incredibly healthy growth, the company is choosing to adopt a conservative approach that they expect to be able to meet and beat," BMO Capital Markets analyst Simeon Siegel said.

On an adjusted basis, Birkenstock earned 0.29 euro per share, beating estimates of 0.26 euro.