Goosebumps and Stars as Paris Fashion Week Kicks Off

Kendall Jenner at the L'Oreal show on the first night of Paris Fashion Week. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP
Kendall Jenner at the L'Oreal show on the first night of Paris Fashion Week. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP
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Goosebumps and Stars as Paris Fashion Week Kicks Off

Kendall Jenner at the L'Oreal show on the first night of Paris Fashion Week. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP
Kendall Jenner at the L'Oreal show on the first night of Paris Fashion Week. JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

Hollywood stars braved the rain to open Paris Fashion Week at L'Oreal's giant outdoor show Monday as rumors swirl of musical chairs at the top of fabled French brands.
The cosmetics giant persuaded Jane Fonda -- in snazzy silver sneakers -- Kendall Jenner, Eva Longoria and several of its other brand ambassadors to walk in a spectacular public show in front of the gilded glory of the Opera Garnier.
With invites to the big luxury shows strictly limited to the glitterati and fashion insiders, L'Oreal said it wanted to democratize the glamor of fashion week.
Introduced by singer Celine Dion, the "Walk Your Worth" show also featured Andie MacDowell, Indian star Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, models with prosthetic limbs and Brazilian supermodel Luma Grothe proudly showing off her bump.
"The idea is to let the public see for themselves the beautiful clothes, settings and people that they would never normally have access to," L'Oreal's Paris director general Delphine Viguier told AFP.
Fashion's young guard had earlier endured a stormy start to the nine-day extravaganza -- Rising French star Victor Weinsanto staged his spring-summer show on the wet and windy roof of the Pompidou Centre museum, his fishnet and mesh ensembles created around Croatian drag queen Le Filip being tested by the elements.
The Paris shows started as falling profits at the two luxury giants LVMH and Kering have sent a shudder through the industry, fueling talk of a "Game of Thrones" among top designers.
Celine's Hedi Slimane and Simon Porte Jacquemus -- the young French designer who made tiny handbags and tiny everything else a thing -- are being talked of to fill Karl Lagerfeld's empty chair at Chanel after Virginie Viard, who took the reins after the death of "the Kaiser" in 2019, bowed out in June.
Hotly anticipated
Tongues are also likely to wag at the spring-summer shows over where John Galliano might go, with his contract at Maison Margiela nearing its end.
The first shows from the big-hitter French houses will come Tuesday with Dior and Saint Laurent, with a packed calendar confirming Paris's crushing dominance over rivals Milan, New York and London.
And there is no let-up at the end: Chanel opens the final day on October 1 by returning to the vast Grand Palais, the scene of some of Lagerfeld's most jaw-dropping shows, after an absence of four years.
The house is shelling out 30 million euros ($33 million) to stage its shows at the iconic Belle Epoque edifice, which reopened after a major facelift to host fencing and taekwondo at the Paris Olympics and Paralympic Games.
With Viard -- long Lagerfeld's right-hand woman -- gone, observers expect a collection drawn from Chanel classics.
In contrast, there could well be fireworks from Alessandro Michele, the mercurial Italian designer who transformed Gucci, who may be keen to make his mark with his debut show for Valentino.
Equally anticipated is French duo Coperni, who are staging their show at Disneyland Paris on the final night, with an after party in the theme park that promises to go on into the wee hours.
The brand's founders, Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer, pulled off a coup with their outfit for Belgian singer Angele for the Olympics closing ceremony, and are clearly in a mood to celebrate.
Another hot duo, the Olsen twins, the Los Angeles child actors turned designers, have kept their place for their luxury line The Row in fashion week proper thanks to a cash injection from the owners of Chanel and L'Oreal.
Paris will, however, be without Givenchy this time, with its new British designer Sarah Burton, a stalwart at Alexander McQueen for a quarter of a century, just made creative director.



Gucci Dreams of Magical Sunsets at Milan Fashion Week

 A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 20, 2024. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 20, 2024. (Reuters)
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Gucci Dreams of Magical Sunsets at Milan Fashion Week

 A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 20, 2024. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation from the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, September 20, 2024. (Reuters)

Gucci sought to recreate the magic of summer sunsets at Milan Fashion Week on Friday with a colorful line that at times nodded to the 1960s.

Creative director Sabato De Sarno began the show for his spring/summer 2025 collection, called “Casual grandeur”, with a tailored zipped jacket and floor-length trousers slit at the front bottom, opening up over sneakers.

Models wore draped or sleeveless dresses in various colors adorned with golden buckles as well as see-through lace frocks.

There were looks that mirrored 1960s styles with short A-line skirts, structured jackets and shorts. Long coats were worn over tank tops and long denim trousers. Some coats were adorned with sparkling fringes.

Models walked down a red catwalk with lighting ranging from white to warmer shades, nodding to the "moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day", De Sarno said in show notes.

“It’s the moment we find ourselves. This collection is a tribute to those moments, and an invitation to stop, seek your own moment," he said, as the show drew Oscar winner Jessica Chastain and Italian tennis star and world No. 1 Jannik Sinner among celebrity guests.

Accessories included large summer hats, an array of handbags and footwear that varied from loafers and boots to platforms with transparent heels.

De Sarno's color palette included grey, brown, different shades of green, white, orange and red.

De Sarno, who presented his first Gucci show a year ago, has been resetting the Italian luxury brand with his sleek, pared-back creations since taking over from former designer Alessandro Michele, known for his eclectic styles.

“A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction,” De Sarno said.

Gucci is the largest brand at Kering where it accounts for half of the French luxury group’s sales.

In July, Kering reported a bigger-than-expected drop in second-quarter sales and forecast a weak second half, as the group works to re-energize Gucci while facing subdued demand from Chinese shoppers.