Maria Grazia Chiuri Redesigns Hooped Petticoats for Dior Haute Couture Show

 A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri as part of her Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection show for fashion house Christian Dior in Paris, France, January 27, 2025. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri as part of her Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection show for fashion house Christian Dior in Paris, France, January 27, 2025. (Reuters)
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Maria Grazia Chiuri Redesigns Hooped Petticoats for Dior Haute Couture Show

 A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri as part of her Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection show for fashion house Christian Dior in Paris, France, January 27, 2025. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri as part of her Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection show for fashion house Christian Dior in Paris, France, January 27, 2025. (Reuters)

Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri kicked off the Paris Haute Couture fashion shows on Monday with a lineup of hooped petticoats and corsets in sheer, airy fabrics.

Models marched down the runway in low heels parading ruffled and lacy looks, some with voluminous skirts, decorated with tufts of fabrics, sequins or ribbons that streamed behind.

Chiuri drew on the house's original La Cigale silhouette from the early 1950s, known for a tightly-cinched waist, as well as the looser Trapeze line from the late 1950s, throwing fitted jackets over short, puffy skirts and decorating tulle with embroidery.

Models wore their hair slicked back, in a mohawk-like style, with a row of feather-tipped spikes that added a punk flair to the look.

The LVMH-owned fashion house held the show in a temporary structure in the gardens of the Rodin Museum where the set was decorated by colorful artwork by Rithika Merchant. The artist's fantastical creatures and tropical vegetation added to the otherworldly flavor of the catwalk presentation.

The Haute Couture fashion shows in Paris run through Jan. 30 and feature some of the industry's best-known labels including Chanel, Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier.



Valentino’s New Designer Showcases History and Drama at Couture Debut in Paris

 A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
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Valentino’s New Designer Showcases History and Drama at Couture Debut in Paris

 A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)

Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture debut was the most anticipated ticket of Paris Couture Week, and the designer didn't disappoint with a lavish spectacle at the Palais Brongniart, a fittingly historic backdrop for his past-meets-present storytelling.

Known for his “more is more” aesthetic, Michele delivered a VIP-filled show on Wednesday brimming with historical reverence, theatricality, and his signature offbeat twists.

Michele, who previously spent nearly eight years redefining Gucci with his eclectic maximalism, has long drawn inspiration from history. It's an obsession that traces back to his childhood in Rome, where he would rummage through his mother’s closet, captivated by the textures of bygone eras.

His tenure at Gucci transformed the brand into a powerhouse of layered nostalgia and offbeat opulence, making his appointment at Valentino — a house steeped in aristocratic elegance — both a natural evolution and a challenge.

His arrival was a significant shift from Valentino's former designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was celebrated for his pared-down romanticism.

The opening look set the tone: a harlequin-patterned gown of enormous proportions, fusing the whimsy of the circus with regal splendor.

Full skirts billowed with 18th-century grandeur against a stark black runway, while ’70s-inspired ruffles added his distinctive vintage-inflected edge. A standout floral gown, evocative of Marie Antoinette, received the New Romantics treatment, a nod to the late ‘70s and early ’80s era that has long fascinated the designer.

Though the collection largely played to Michele’s strengths, with exuberance tempered by couture-level precision, some elements felt overdone. A polka dot jacket with an oversized bow veered into twee territory, an example of how his fondness for embellishment can sometimes tip into excess. Yet, the overall balance leaned toward refinement, with a relative restraint compared to his past work at Gucci.

Michele’s couture debut reaffirmed his reputation as a designer who finds beauty in historical excavation.