Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
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Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP

Its modern architecture complemented by latticework inspired by local Yoruba textiles, Alara, west Africa's first fashion and design "concept store", is an imposing sight in Lagos, Nigeria's bustling economic capital.

Founder Reni Folawiyo is now 10 years into forging what she calls "Afro-lux", Alara serving as a homebase for designs that "play between tradition and modernity", while working to elevate African fashion both at home and abroad, said AFP.

Inside, clothing from upscale African designers sits next to western brands, decorative art and books, part of Folawiyo's mission to put design from the continent on equal footing with established giants.

The lattice on the building's exterior is based on adire textiles, popular among the Yoruba ethnic group in southwest Nigeria.

"A lot of the beautiful things that people were making in different parts of Africa were not celebrated in the way that I thought they should be celebrated," the 60-year-old told AFP of the rural handiwork that often inspires the work on display.

"I felt very strongly in my belief that these objects and these people had value."

Music stars as style ambassadors

West African design is having a moment, Folawiyo told AFP in an interview in Lagos, wearing sunglasses with bright pink lenses.

In May, Nigerian music stars Burna Boy, Tems and Ayra Starr graced New York's Met Gala, dressed by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.

But for Folawiyo, it is not enough to just occupy the occasional runway.

"At the moment, the best way to platform designers outside Africa is to partner and collaborate with institutions that are of repute," she said, pointing to her recent pop-up store and exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum as well as a collaboration with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Taking notes from her own Yoruba culture -- with its rich textiles, bright colors and lavish ceremonies -- she's also found inspiration in the "rugged" design of Senegal and the "certain sophistication" found in Ivory Coast.

Alara is "my own idea of what a celebration of Africa looks like", she told AFP.

Culture through cuisine

Behind the boutique lies the NOK restaurant, whose executive chef is Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese chef who has led the charge in bringing the region's food scene to the United States.

While still high end, NOK's prices are more affordable than Alara's wares -- a tricky balancing act in a country like Nigeria, home to wealthy one-percenters in the tech and oil industries, a middle class battered by inflation and millions of informal workers.

Among Alara's austere interior of black walls and white concrete, a green dress from the Nigerian brand Eki Kere retails for 325,000 naira (about $210), while a table from Senegalese-Nigerian studio Salu Iwadi can fetch up to 10 times the price.

Folawiyo herself comes from Lagos's elite, as the wife of business magnate Tunde Folawiyo and daughter of former Western Region attorney general Lateef Adegbite.

Yet getting others -- including potential business partners -- to see her vision of African-born luxury was a struggle when she first attempted to launch Alara, she said.

"But I was very committed to it and I had great belief in myself and my idea," she said.

Now, firmly planted in Nigeria, Folawiyo organizes fashion shows abroad, including at Barbados's CARIFESTA XV this month.

But the industry's success, she said, ultimately relies on "passing on knowledge to future generations".



Shein Scheduled for Hong Kong IPO Hearing on Thursday

FILE PHOTO: A Shein logo is seen at the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on its opening day inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A Shein logo is seen at the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on its opening day inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
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Shein Scheduled for Hong Kong IPO Hearing on Thursday

FILE PHOTO: A Shein logo is seen at the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on its opening day inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A Shein logo is seen at the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on its opening day inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo

Fast-fashion retailer Shein is scheduled for a Hong Kong initial public offering hearing with the city's stock exchange on Thursday, two sources with knowledge of the matter said, a step which will bring it closer to its much-awaited market debut.

The fast-growing commerce company on ‌Friday received ‌Chinese securities regulator's nod to ‌go ⁠ahead with its ⁠Hong Kong IPO plan, which marks the removal of a major hurdle in its long journey of going public.

The sources could not be named as the information was confidential.

Shein did not ⁠immediately respond to a Reuters ‌request for comment.

The company ‌will need to answer questions from ‌members of the Hong Kong Stock Exchange's ‌listing committee during the hearing process.

Once Shein obtains clearance from the stock exchange, it can then proceed to conducting investor roadshows and ‌launching bookbuilding for the IPO.

A source told Reuters on Friday ⁠the ⁠company could possibly aim to list in September or October, targeting a valuation of $40 billion to $50 billion.

Founded by Chinese-born entrepreneur Sky Xu in 2012, Shein had to wait for a year for the green light from Beijing for its Hong Kong IPO after confidentially filing the application last July.


Shein Finally Wins China's Approval for Hong Kong IPO

FILE PHOTO: Sunglasses are displayed at the reception of the fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Sunglasses are displayed at the reception of the fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo
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Shein Finally Wins China's Approval for Hong Kong IPO

FILE PHOTO: Sunglasses are displayed at the reception of the fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Sunglasses are displayed at the reception of the fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo

Fast-fashion retailer Shein won approval for its long-awaited Hong Kong IPO on Friday, a notice posted on the China Securities Regulatory Commission (CSRC) website showed, clearing the way for a listing after failed attempts in New York and London.

Shein, a fast-growing e-commerce giant, would be the highest-profile retailer to list in years, as many consumer brands have delayed initial public offerings due to weak investor sentiment and subdued spending by lower- to middle-income shoppers.

Founded by Chinese-born entrepreneur Sky Xu in 2012, Shein has waited a year for the green light from Beijing for its IPO, which had to be cleared by the highest levels of the ruling Communist Party, according to a source with direct knowledge of the matter.

Beijing views Shein as politically sensitive and has been cautious about endorsing a listing after controversies including a sex doll scandal in France and reports of poor labor practices at its supplier factories in China, Reuters quoted the source as saying.

Shein filed confidentially for its Hong Kong IPO and had not made the filing documents public as of Friday. With CSRC approval, the company can organize investor roadshows and prepare for ⁠its hearing with ⁠the Hong Kong stock exchange's listing committee, a requirement for all IPO candidates.

The company could possibly aim to list in September or October, the source said.


Indian Haute Couture Presence 'Overdue', Says Designer Manish Malhotra

France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM) has been diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West. Kenzo TRIBOUILLARD / AFP
France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM) has been diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West. Kenzo TRIBOUILLARD / AFP
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Indian Haute Couture Presence 'Overdue', Says Designer Manish Malhotra

France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM) has been diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West. Kenzo TRIBOUILLARD / AFP
France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM) has been diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West. Kenzo TRIBOUILLARD / AFP

Indian designers are a growing presence at Paris Haute Couture Week -- "overdue" representation for a country that has long played a role behind the scenes, the latest newcomer, Manish Malhotra, told AFP.

Malhotra, 59, became the fourth Indian designer after Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta and Vaishali S to join the official Paris calendar this week, considered the most elite stage of the global fashion industry.

The best-known European houses from Chanel to Christian Dior have long relied on Indian embroiderers and textile makers for their spectacular one-of-a-kind creations.

But Indian designers are now harnessing home-grown artisans to challenge the Parisian tastemakers in a business that traditionally served royalty, but now caters to celebrities and other global VIPs.

"I think it was long overdue," Malhotra told AFP, a day after presenting an intensely personal collection of highly structured dresses in Paris -- all a tribute to his recently deceased mother.

"India is so culturally rich in terms of texture and textile, architecture, jewels, embroidery. It has such a heritage of kings and queens.

"You know, I think it was high time," he added.

France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM) has been actively diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West.

Malhotra admitted to feeling nervous before his first show on Wednesday, which was entitled "Maa" and reflected Malhotra's deep bond with his mother whom he lost just three months ago.

"There's nothing bigger than Paris Haute Couture. This is the ultimate platform," he said.

While preparing, "I kept coming back to my mother's story, and at one point I said, 'you know what, Paris doesn't know me, and if they are going to know me, they have to know what I'm feeling right now'," he explained.

"And honestly, I'm still very affected by losing her."

The opening outfit was a dramatic full-length coat featuring sculptures of a boy and his mother at different life stages, while another dress featured elaborate cut-outs of a mother and boy on the front who embraced as the model moved.

Born into a middle-class family in Mumbai, Malhotra started out making costumes for Bollywood before moving into couture and bridalwear.

His decision to show in Paris underlines his growing international ambitions, having launched separate jewelry and beauty lines, as well as his first overseas boutique in Dubai in 2023.

He also became a viral sensation after this year's Met Gala having arrived wearing a jacket and cape featuring sculptural and embroidered tributes to Mumbai.

He has also dressed US superstars from Rihanna to Jennifer Lopez.

"After 35 years of working, what's the next challenge for me?" he said.

"Maybe an atelier in Paris, maybe a store in New York?"