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EU Seeks Faster Crackdown on China Parcels that Could Hit Shein, Temu

Shein and Temu logos are seen in this illustration taken August 22, 2024. (Reuters)
Shein and Temu logos are seen in this illustration taken August 22, 2024. (Reuters)
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EU Seeks Faster Crackdown on China Parcels that Could Hit Shein, Temu

Shein and Temu logos are seen in this illustration taken August 22, 2024. (Reuters)
Shein and Temu logos are seen in this illustration taken August 22, 2024. (Reuters)

European finance ministers agreed on Thursday to bring forward to next year customs duties on low-value parcels arriving in the bloc to crack down on cheap Chinese e-commerce imports, in a move set to hit Chinese online retailers Shein and Temu.

The agreement to introduce duties "as soon as possible in 2026" by finance ministers' meeting in Brussels sets up negotiations with the European Parliament, whose approval is also required, Reuters reported.

The European Union is trying to accelerate the imposition of fees on low-value parcels entering the bloc in a bid to crack down on cheap Chinese e-commerce imports as concern grows over Chinese goods being dumped in Europe.

European Commissioner for Trade Maros Sefcovic had proposed to the ministers that the "de minimis" duties exemption for online purchases below 150 euros ($175) be removed in the first quarter of 2026, two years earlier than planned. It should be replaced with a "simplified temporary customs fee", he said.

In 2023, the European Commission proposed removing the exemption, but only from 2028, when a broader overhaul of the EU's customs regime is due to take effect and the de minimis exemption will more formally be abolished.

Online platforms like Shein, Temu, AliExpress and Amazon Haul, which send products from Chinese factories directly to shoppers, offer rock-bottom prices partly thanks to the customs waiver, hurting European rivals.

"European industries, particularly retailers, have repeatedly underlined that this distortion of competition be removed without delay," Sefcovic wrote.

German online retailer Zalando, among those pushing the EU to act, said in a statement that the removal of the exemption should be fast-tracked, and an EU-wide handling fee could "play a complementary role" in the meantime.

MOVE TO HIT SHEIN, TEMU

Shein declined to comment, while Temu, AliExpress, and Amazon did not immediately respond to requests for comment. Shein is facing legal proceedings in France over the sale of child-like sex dolls on its platform.

The number of low-value e-commerce packages arriving in the bloc doubled last year to 4.6 billion, over 90% of them from China, and the Commission, the bloc's executive arm, is facing pressure from EU companies to stem that flow more quickly.

"We've already received more parcels than in the entire year of 2024, and Black Friday and Christmas are just around the corner," EU lawmaker Dirk Gotink, chief negotiator on the new customs legislation, said in a statement welcoming the move to scrap the customs waiver faster.

The US has scrapped its own "de minimis" policy that allowed duty-free entry to parcels worth less than $800, leading to concerns that cheap Chinese imports would divert more to Europe.

There is also added urgency as individual EU countries have moved to introduce national handling fees.

Romania has proposed a 25 lei ($5.73) fee on low-value packages, while Italy is working on a tax by the end of the year to protect its fashion industry, its industry minister said on Wednesday.

RETAILERS WARN AGAINST ASSORTMENT OF NATIONAL FEES

European retailers and wholesalers' lobby group EuroCommerce have warned that an assortment of different national fees risks undermining the EU single market. The Commission has proposed a 2 euro fee, but it is not clear when it would be imposed.

Sefcovic said he welcomed the backing from EU finance ministers because European business, particularly retailers, had repeatedly demanded the removal without delay of "this distortion of competition".

Dutch Finance Minister Eelco Heinen told reporters it was time to "get a grip" on cheap Chinese parcels flooding the European market, while Greek Finance Minister Kyriakos Pierrakakis said in a statement that his country backed the immediate imposition of tariffs on small parcels.

 

 

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Fashion

FKA Twigs, Addison Rae and Others Embrace Playful, Daring Fashion on Grammys Red Carpet

Grammy Awards are displayed at the Grammy Museum Experience at Prudential Center in Newark, N.J. on Oct. 10, 2017. (AP)
Grammy Awards are displayed at the Grammy Museum Experience at Prudential Center in Newark, N.J. on Oct. 10, 2017. (AP)
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FKA Twigs, Addison Rae and Others Embrace Playful, Daring Fashion on Grammys Red Carpet

Grammy Awards are displayed at the Grammy Museum Experience at Prudential Center in Newark, N.J. on Oct. 10, 2017. (AP)
Grammy Awards are displayed at the Grammy Museum Experience at Prudential Center in Newark, N.J. on Oct. 10, 2017. (AP)

Addison Rae, Sabrina Carpenter and FKA twigs were among the music stars delivering fresh takes on red carpet style at the 68th Grammys.

The Grammys are a night of rule-breaking looks and memorable fashion statements where artists shed the traditional playbook of red carpet dressing and take style risks, The Associated Press said.

Stars respectfully toned down their attire last year, choosing instead to go with more subdued or all black looks in light of the destruction left by the Los Angeles wildfires.

This year, some stars embodied their on-stage music personas on the carpet and played around with new looks while others stuck with more traditional evening wear looks.

Tyla may have a song titled “Chanel,” but she went with Dsquared² for the red carpet. The South African singer wore low-cut cream look that featured a long-feathered train and gold beaded detailing. She styled the look with a loose updo and braids.

Stars take playful approach Red carpet attendees took playful approaches to their looks Sunday.

The British rising stars Lola Young and PinkPantheress who are shaking up the music industry with their individual sounds both opted for vastly different Vivienne Westwood looks Sunday.

Best new artist nominee Young, who is back after taking a brief hiatus last year, sported an army green sweatsuit printed with children’s toys on the carpet. PinkPantheress opted for a signature corseted off-the-shoulder gown draped with the Union Jack symbol.

Zara Larsson glowed on the carpet in her sunny yellow bra top and maxi skirt sequined set. The “Midnight Sun” singer made reference to the song with her radiating look.

In keeping with her theme, the Swedish singer wore a circular ray around her skirt while performing at the Grammy’s Premiere Ceremony before removing the rays for her walk down the carpet.

FKA twigs brought her album “Eusexua” to life on the carpet wearing a beige sheer flowy Paolo Carzana dress which she paired with a book and an orchid. The artist told Variety that the book is part of the lore of her “Eusexua” album for which she won best dance/electronic album early in the night.

The Grammys carpet is a chance for up-and-coming artists to shine among industry legends and their peers.

Coordinating on the carpet British girl group Flo, a first-time nominee, paid homage to Destiny’s Child with their matching sets. Jorja Douglas, Stella Quaresma and Renée Downer each wore coordinated beaded black and royal blue ensembles. Destiny’s Child famously wore matching green lace cut-out looks at the 2001 Grammys where the group won two awards for “Say My Name.”

Flo brought back that synergy with their unified aesthetic.

“We actually have a sixth sense and a lot of things we just agree on,” Quaresma told The Associated Press.

Former Destiny Child member Michelle Williams arrived on the carpet in a black sheer gown embellished with gold leaves and a black satin train from Jean-Louis Sabaji.

Love bugs Yungblud and Jesse Jo Stark took a risqué approach to their coordinated attire. Yungblud showed off his bare chest under a leather Chrome hearts jacket with a detachable animal print collar. Stark wore a leather halter dress. Yungblud won his first Grammy for best rock performance for “Changes,” alongside Nuno Bettencourt and Frank Bello.

Some stars accidentally took coordinating too far by wearing the same looks. Two stars had a fashion face-off at the start of the night with singer Ledisi and TV host Jasmine Simpkins both flaunting the same off-the-shoulder pink peach dress with sparkly tinsel.

Rising stars take center stage

This year, a fashionable bunch of artists make up the hotly contested best new artist category. Rae aptly has a song titled “High Fashion.” The newcomer wore a structured white custom Alaia dress with a neckline that plunged down to her navel.

Rae appeared in the “12 to 12″ music video for another nominee in the category, Sombr, who sparkled on the carpet in a shimmering silver Valentino suit paired with a lace undershirt.

Carpenter also paid tribute to designer who died in January. Carpenter once again brought Old Hollywood glamour to the carpet with her chic custom Valentino white shimmering gown fitted with a sheer bolo jacket.

Unlike the tuxedos at other award shows, male Grammy nominees often shake things up. Singer-songwriter Darren Criss was one of the first to arrive shortly after the carpet opened. Criss, who is hosting the Grammys premiere ceremony, donned a shimmering lace suit from Tanner Fletcher with an off-white silk cravat shaped into a bow. He paired it with his signature painted nails.

Chappell Roan, who won best new artist last year, donned a yellow tulle archival Jean Paul Gaultier couture gown printed with Degas’ famous ballerinas on the carpet. She later wore several other looks throughout the ceremony.

Some at the Grammys sought to draw attention to protests over the US Immigration and Customs Enforcement presence in cities. Jason Isbell, Margo Price, Kehlani and Rhiannon Giddens were among the artists wearing protest apparel on the Grammys red carpet.

Fashion

French Eyewear Maker in Spotlight After Presidential Showing

28 January 2026, France, Paris: French President Emmanuel Macron waits to welcome Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen and Greenlandic Prime Minister Jans-Fredrik Nielsen at the Elysee Palace. (Le Pictorium via ZUMA Press/dpa)
28 January 2026, France, Paris: French President Emmanuel Macron waits to welcome Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen and Greenlandic Prime Minister Jans-Fredrik Nielsen at the Elysee Palace. (Le Pictorium via ZUMA Press/dpa)
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French Eyewear Maker in Spotlight After Presidential Showing

28 January 2026, France, Paris: French President Emmanuel Macron waits to welcome Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen and Greenlandic Prime Minister Jans-Fredrik Nielsen at the Elysee Palace. (Le Pictorium via ZUMA Press/dpa)
28 January 2026, France, Paris: French President Emmanuel Macron waits to welcome Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen and Greenlandic Prime Minister Jans-Fredrik Nielsen at the Elysee Palace. (Le Pictorium via ZUMA Press/dpa)

The aviator sunglasses that captured the world's attention when French President Emmanuel Macron wore a pair on stage in Davos in a faceoff with US counterpart Donald Trump have become an unexpected success for the Italian owner of the France-based manufacturer that has watched sales soar.

Despite the hype, eyewear maker Henry Jullien has struggled in a declining French industry that was established in the eastern Jura region in the late 1700s, facing competition from far cheaper Asian manufacturers.

Henry Jullien's "Top Gun"-style shades with blue lenses and a silver frame, priced at 659 euros ($784), are now featured on the French presidency's online store.

Since last week's World Economic Forum in Switzerland, "we've been getting calls from all over the world, it's given us incredible publicity," said Stefano Fulchir, CEO of the Italian company iVision Tech which owns Henry Jullien.

More than 500 sunglasses have already been sold online -- a significant jump for the high-end brand that typically produces just a thousand pairs per year, including 200 of the aviator Pacific S01 model, in Jura.

The brand's website crashed with the surge in traffic so a temporary webpage dedicated solely to the presidential model was launched, while iVision Tech's stock soared 70 percent in a matter of days, Fulchir said.

Macron had ordered the sunglasses in 2024 "to give a gift to a minister during the G20" along with the pair for himself, Fulchir said.

Made with a gold wire, the aviators are crafted in an intricate 279-step process over four months.

"We pampered both pairs, of course," said Herve Basset, 60, who has spent more than half his life at Henry Jullien.

The eyewear makers all received thank-you letters from the president, recalled Karine Pelissard, who has spent 30 years in the trade.

- Shrinking industry -

The eyewear maker had about 180 employees 15 years ago but was down to just 15 when iVision Tech bought it in 2023, according to the mayor where the manufacturing facility is located.

Further cuts were made. Ten employees remain in Jura, iVision Tech said, and its site in the Italian town of Martignacco has had to take on the surge in orders.

To assure authenticity, Fulchir said the glasses are stamped with either "Made in France" or "Made in Italy" depending on which site they come from -- the "most important" labels in the eyewear world, signifying quality.

Yet Julien Forestier, head of the eyewear makers' union in Jura, said the buzz will "bring nothing" to the local industry.

"There are only a few companies left fighting for French manufacturing," and even opticians no longer really believe in the Made in France label anymore, he lamented.

While the sector still produces 2 million frames a year, there are only around 50 companies and about 800 employees in Jura, compared with 10,000 in the 1950s.

Fashion

Phan Huy: The Fashion Prodigy Putting Vietnam on the Map

Claire Foy, Penelope Cruz, Dua Lipa, Kim Go-eun, Tilda Swinton, Anna Wintour, Nicole Kidman, Arthur Jafa, and Guillaume Diop attend the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 collection show in Paris, France, January 27, 2026. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
Claire Foy, Penelope Cruz, Dua Lipa, Kim Go-eun, Tilda Swinton, Anna Wintour, Nicole Kidman, Arthur Jafa, and Guillaume Diop attend the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 collection show in Paris, France, January 27, 2026. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
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Phan Huy: The Fashion Prodigy Putting Vietnam on the Map

Claire Foy, Penelope Cruz, Dua Lipa, Kim Go-eun, Tilda Swinton, Anna Wintour, Nicole Kidman, Arthur Jafa, and Guillaume Diop attend the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 collection show in Paris, France, January 27, 2026. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
Claire Foy, Penelope Cruz, Dua Lipa, Kim Go-eun, Tilda Swinton, Anna Wintour, Nicole Kidman, Arthur Jafa, and Guillaume Diop attend the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2026 collection show in Paris, France, January 27, 2026. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

Phan Huy has had a thrilling -- but quite stressful -- journey to making history at Paris Haute Couture Week on Thursday where he will become the youngest and the first Vietnamese designer to present a collection on the official calendar.

The early part of his week was spent anxiously waiting for his designs to arrive in France from Vietnam after they were held up in customs.

"I was very nervous," the soft-spoken 27-year-old told AFP on Tuesday just hours after his elaborate hand-made dresses were finally released, meaning he could begin fitting the models.

"We had a paperwork issue," his co-founder and brand chief executive Steven Doan, 40, explained.

The delays have complicated an already daunting task for the duo who have been catapulted into Paris Haute Couture Week and the fashion stratosphere, which some designers spend a lifetime hoping to enter.

They created the label less than three years ago, but have been fast-tracked into a field that includes corporate giants like Chanel, Dior or Armani, which have billions in annual sales.

Phan and Doan have more limited resources and prepared to unveil their designs on Thursday at 1230 GMT in a cramped basement apartment in western Paris.

"The first collection completely sold out and from that we reinvested," Doan explained. "We were very lucky that we've received a lot of orders from customers around the world, not just in Vietnam."

- 'A dream' -

The origins of the brand go back to Phan's final collection at the Ho Chi Minh City University which became a viral sensation, drawing attention from local celebrities including singers My Tam and Ho Ngoc Ha.

"It was a dream because I was a young student," said Phan, who only turned 27 this week.

Doan, a former model and a stylist in London, also reached out from his then-home in the British capital to suggest they work together.

"I was really struck by Huy's talent. In Vietnam there's a level of designing that is very similar and then when you see a different collection, it really stands out," Doan said.

While he grew up in the coastal city of Nha Trang, Phan hails from a village in the central Quang Tri province.

Phan credits his first interest in fabrics to his parents' curtain shop, where material was always abundant.

He would transform some of it into doll dresses.

"I was into fashion and clothing when I was six years old. I was always very picky with my own outfits," he explained.

- 'Fashion as well' -

The invitation to Paris Haute Couture Week came from France's FHCM fashion federation, which is the guardian of the country's highly protected Fashion Weeks and a key tastemaker.

Alongside the permanent French couture houses, the federation invites guest designers from around the world who have both the skill and commitment to handmade craft that form the basis of the business.

Phan Huy will take his place alongside other designers such as Rami Al Ali from Syria, Imane Ayissi from Cameroon and Hong Kong-born Robert Wun who have brought diversity and freshness to the program.

"I'm very happy and very proud because I can represent and bring the culture and creativity of Vietnam to the world," Phan said.

Doan stressed that their home country is known as a global manufacturing hub that produces mass-market clothes for Western brands.

"We want to prove that we can do fashion as well," he said.

The last Phan Huy collection, which was shown off-calendar in Paris last July, included references to everyday rural Vietnamese life from fans, fishing nets, straw bundles to banana leaves.

This upcoming Spring/Summer 2026 season has been inspired by Vietnam's former ruling Nguyen dynasty, notably Emperor Khai Dinh and the last empress consort, Nam Phuong, who both lived under colonial French rule.

"I want to be inspired by people like Empress consort Nam Phuong, King Khai Dinh, with their fashion style and the interaction between the West and the East," explained Phan.