Designer Gabriela Hearst Still Believes in 'Brilliance of Humanity' Despite AI

Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)
Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)
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Designer Gabriela Hearst Still Believes in 'Brilliance of Humanity' Despite AI

Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)
Uruguayan-US fashion designer Gabriela Hearst gestures during an interview after presenting the official suits for Uruguay's national football team ahead of the 2026 FIFA World Cup at the Centenario Stadium in Montevideo, on June 2, 2026. (Photo by Eitan ABRAMOVICH / AFP)

The "brilliance of humanity" will matter more, not less, in an AI world, Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst told AFP in an interview.

Natural materials and handmade craftsmanship are the hallmarks of Hearst's luxury brand, whose commitment to environmentally friendly fashion has secured her status as a sustainable style icon.

With celebrities including Kate Middleton, Julia Roberts and former US first lady Jill Biden wearing her personal brand, Hearst was also the first Latin American woman to lead the French fashion house Chloe from 2020 to 2023.

In a world threatened by climate crisis and the emergence of artificial intelligence, "there will be a genuine need for handmade creation," Hearst told AFP during a recent trip to Montevideo to present World Cup uniforms to the Uruguayan team.

"The human part, the part of our brain that is unique to us, the part that represents the brilliance of humanity, is going to matter more and more," she said.

The designer on the cusp of 50 prizes quality over quantity, and obstinately opposes fast fashion fads.

"There are so many clothes in the world," she said. "There's always a way to have a small amount, but of good quality."

Now based in New York, Hearst said she owes her intimate knowledge of quality, sustainability and "true beauty" to her native Uruguay.

"When I was little, I wanted to go travel, to see the world," she said.

"After traveling," she continued, "I was able to appreciate what it means to grow up with those star-filled skies, the nature, eating food from the land, the quality, the natural luxury that surrounded me."

"Clothes were passed down" in Hearst's community, she said, recalling picking through her mother's wardrobe filled with garments made by the family seamstress.

In her native country of 3.4 million people, hundreds of weavers work for Manos del Uruguay, a network of cooperatives that produces handcrafted garments for Hearst's brand.

The finished products end up on runways, Vogue magazine covers and even on-screen in "Sex and the City" movie sequel, where a multi-colored blanket designed by Hearst appears draped over Sarah Jessica Parker's legs.

"It's incredible that our craftsmanship reaches so far," said 60-year-old weaver Mabel Bargas, who works in one of the Manos del Uruguay workshops.

Hearst wants to leave a legacy of positive social impact by creating jobs and doing her bit for the environment.

"We can't afford to lose our human connection," she said, adding that people with privilege "have a responsibility to help others."



Gap Climbs After Leadership Change at Old Navy, Profit Forecast Raise

A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)
A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)
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Gap Climbs After Leadership Change at Old Navy, Profit Forecast Raise

A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)
A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)

Gap's shares jumped as much as 24.1% to a four-month high, after the apparel retailer named industry veteran Michael Francis as CEO of Old Navy, a move aimed at reinvigorating the brand in a challenging spending environment.

Old Navy, Gap's biggest brand, has struggled to gain traction in select women's apparel categories in recent quarters, a key hurdle in the company's turnaround.

Since CEO Richard Dickson took charge in 2023, Gap has revamped its leadership and ‌marketing, boosting Gap ‌and Banana Republic, but Old Navy continues ‌to ⁠lag.

"It is true ⁠that the family demographic that Old Navy serves is under pressure, but Old Navy did not give them enough reasons to buy," said Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData, adding that the weakness points to a broader problem that Gap can no longer pass off as a "modest range misstep".

Gap shares were trading 15% ⁠higher at $23.95, and could add about $1.14 billion to ‌the company's market value if gains ‌hold.

Some retailers are bringing new leaders on board to revive their ‌struggling brands. Tapestry's Kate Spade last month appointed renowned designer Jonathan ‌Saunders as executive creative director.

"The appointment of a new Old Navy leader underscores management's focus on stabilizing performance at the company's largest banner," Jefferies analysts said in a note.

Francis joined Gap in March as Old ‌Navy's chief customer officer. He brings over four decades of marketing, commercial and business transformation experience, ⁠including roles ⁠at Target and Walmart.

Gap lifted its annual profit forecast after topping quarterly estimates. However, it narrowed its fiscal 2026 sales growth target, citing economic uncertainty.

Its quarterly comparable sales grew about 10%, while at Old Navy they were down 4%, the first decline in 12 quarters.

The company's forward 12-month price-to-earnings ratio stood at 8.33, compared with American Eagle Outfitters' 8.94 and Urban Outfitters' 11.93.

"Gap should be able to end the full fiscal year on a positive sales note, but it needs to get the big engine of Old Navy whirring again to keep advancing at a convincing pace," Saunders said.


M&S Rolls Out Zalando Fulfillment Deal in 22 European Markets

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
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M&S Rolls Out Zalando Fulfillment Deal in 22 European Markets

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)

Britain's Marks & Spencer has expanded its partnership with Germany's Zalando, enabling the online fashion retailer to fulfill M&S' direct-to-consumer orders across 22 continental European markets, it said on Tuesday.

M&S said the partnership ‌would help ‌scale its European online ‌business ⁠through faster deliveries ⁠and returns, while reducing logistics costs by up to half.

The partnership was announced in November last year ⁠and successfully trialed in ‌Poland ‌this month.

Partnership now expanded ‌across Europe, including M&S' largest ‌online markets of France, the Netherlands, Germany and Spain.

M&S said it is ‌continuing to see momentum in its international online ⁠business, ⁠driven by growing demand for its fashion offer.

In May, M&S forecast a return to profit growth this year after it slumped 24% in 2025/26, hit by a cyberattack that dented sales and margins.


Shein Grapples with EU Backlash, But Clients Keep Coming

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
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Shein Grapples with EU Backlash, But Clients Keep Coming

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo

Shein's meteoric growth has made it a lightning rod for critics of ultrafast fashion in Europe, where officials are trying to rein in its operations in the name of social and environmental responsibility.

The probes, financial penalties and fierce debates have dampened but not fully curbed the enthusiasm of millions of clients in a key market for the China-founded online juggernaut.

The company's $1.7 billion stock market listing, announced on Monday, aims in particular to juice its international expansion, AFP said.

- Short-lived Paris store -

Starting in 2012, Shein began online sales of its continually renewed stock of tops, dresses and other items, drastically undercutting the prices of its rivals -- to say nothing of traditional clothing stores.

Its European customer base rose to 156 million average monthly users by the end of last year, making Shein one of the continent's biggest e-commerce platforms alongside China's AliExpress (193 million users), and Amazon (around 180 million).

In November, the group made waves with its first-ever physical outlet, a dedicated space in the storied BHV department store in Paris.

Hundreds of customers lined up on its opening day, and dozens more people gathered to protest, requiring a heavy police presence to keep the tense situation from getting out of hand.

Demonstrators slammed what they called inhumane working conditions at Shein's suppliers, the environmental costs of selling clothes not made to last, and unfair competition against brick-and-mortar retailers struggling to stay open.

The company says it holds its suppliers to strict compliance standards and does not tolerate forced labor.

- Sex doll scandal -

It did not help that just a few days before the Paris opening, France's consumer protection agency said it had discovered childlike sex dolls for sale on Shein's platform.

Accusing the company of fostering child pornography, French officials asked the European Commission to open an inquiry under the bloc's wide-reaching Digital Services Act.

The EU investigation that opened in February 2026 targeted the sale of illicit goods "including child sexual abuse material" as well as what it alleged was Shein's "addictive design".

In June, French authorities imposed two fines on Shein totaling more than 22 million euros ($25 million), citing problems with product traceability, environmental labelling and delivery times.

The next month it secured an EU-wide halt on the sales of items with crocodile logos -- deemed a counterfeit of France's famed Lacoste brand of polo shirts.

Overall, Shein has paid over 210 million euros in various French fines over the years, and Italy has also imposed fines alleging misleading environmental claims.

In June, the BHV's new owners said they would part ways with Shein, calling the decision to welcome a physical outlet a "strategic error".

- Regulatory pushback -

Shein has called the penalties "disproportionate and discriminatory", while China's commerce ministry says they violate World Trade Organization rules.

That did not stop the European Union from imposing duties on the billions of small, inexpensive retail parcels entering the bloc each year -- most of them from Chinese e-commerce sites.

Since July, a duty of three euros per item applies to packages valued at less than 150 euros, similar to a move last year by US President Donald Trump's administration against products originating in China.

But the EU fee applies to the type of item imported, not the number. So a person buying five T-shirts pays just three euros, but someone buying a T-shirt, jeans and socks would pay nine euros.

Brussels says the duty helps compensate for overwhelmed customs authorities given the popularity of e-commerce, in particular for clothes and other items from China and elsewhere that do not comply with EU standards.

According to the head of the European Parliament's trade committee, Bernd Lange, the number of small parcels from abroad have more than quadrupled to 5.88 billion since 2022.

Starting in November, the EU will impose a still-undetermined handling fee on such parcels.

It is far from clear how effective the duties will be, especially as online giants like Shein could build warehouses in Europe to limit the impact.

After France imposed its own duty of two euros on such parcels this year -- before the EU system kicked in -- the customs office estimated it brought in around 2.3 million euros per month.

That was far below the 33 million euros per month the government had expected in the 2026 budget.