Wimbledon Clings onto Fashion Traditions, with a Twist

Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
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Wimbledon Clings onto Fashion Traditions, with a Twist

Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP
Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress. Henry NICHOLLS / AFP

Amid fast-changing fashion trends, Wimbledon has remained a bastion of "classy" style, with players and attendees donning their finest whites at the London tennis tournament which some say is reminiscent of traditional British high society.

"This is Wimbledon! You've got to dress up," Jari Hedman, 65, said with a smile.

The Finnish tennis coach had bought an Italian-made white linen suit for the occasion, paired with a navy blue jacket and a flourish of color with an orange tie.

He had picked the "classy" attire "in honor of the tournament", Hedman told AFP.

The Wimbledon tennis championships, which runs from June 29 to July 12 this year and is the oldest of the Grand Slam tournaments, will celebrate its 150th anniversary next year.

The royals are regular attendees, especially Princess Kate, who is often praised for her elegant fashion choices.

Ahead of the tournament, the BBC published an article on "etiquette" or unwritten rules for attendees, while other newspapers chimed in with fashion tips.

"With its mix of royalty, A-listers and diehard fans, Wimbledon always has a sense of occasion, so why not make an effort?" advised The Times.

And what should one wear to the stands? "White, white, white. And light colors," said Lucie Ta, a 29-year-old engineer from Prague.

She was wearing a long white dress with black polka dots, a white jacket slung over her arm in case the weather cooled.

Anne Freeman, an American from Houston, donned a pearl-colored floral dress and a sleek Panama hat. "It's a way to be respectful of the tradition," she said.

'Insight' into UK's past

Wimbledon has the strictest dress code in the circuit for players, who are required to wear "suitable tennis attire that is almost entirely white" from "the point at which the player enters the court surround".

"White does not include off-white or cream," the dress code dictates.

The rules are rooted in the sport's aristocratic history, with white the color of choice for hiding sweat stains, which were considered improper.

Players have found ways, both subtle and unconventional, to bring their individual style to court within the dress code.

Japan's Naomi Osaka, known for her flamboyant outfits, arrived on Monday in a kimono-inspired white dress with embroidered motifs of cranes and cherry blossoms, by Japanese designer Hana Yagi.

She paired the outfit with a traditional kanzashi hair ornament featuring white flowers before removing both to reveal a white Nike dress.

Osaka revealed she had the idea for the outfit after watching the Quentin Tarantino film "Kill Bill".

"I think about my cultures, my heritage, which is Japanese and Haitian. Then if I dive deeper into like Japanese culture, I think about the most iconic silhouette, which for me is a kimono," she said.

Serbia's Novak Djokovic wore a white Lacoste jacket with a green trimming, which, according to the brand, was inspired by those worn by "great champions" -- including Rene Lacoste -- in the 1920s.

Going to Wimbledon is "fascinating" as it gives "an insight into what the past of British society looked like," according to Daniel-Yaw Miller, a sports and fashion journalist.

The grass-court tournament "always was seen as a social scene" like the Ascot horse races, explained Elizabeth Wilson, who has penned a book on the history of tennis.

"Therefore people wanted to dress up, to look smart," she added.

In the 1950s, women wore formal hats, while in the 60s, they still wore gloves. "It has got very much more relaxed," said Wilson.

While spectators can dress however they like, Wimbledon still has a "very distinct aesthetic" and very "revered traditions," said Miller.

"I think the athletes and the fans really buy into the fact that it is unique."

Miller, a British man living in New York, enjoys comparing Wimbledon and the US Open: "You go from the most English thing imaginable to the most American thing imaginable in every sense of the word."

The US Open feels like "one big party," with entertainment, where it's sometimes even "hard to focus" on the tennis.

When he attended the Grand Slam across the pond, he wore shorts and a T-shirt. For Wimbledon, however, he opted for a polo shirt and smart trousers.



Nike Plans More Job Cuts to Boost Sputtering Turnaround, Forecasts Steep Revenue Drop

People walk past a Nike store in New York City, US, April 2, 2025. (Reuters)
People walk past a Nike store in New York City, US, April 2, 2025. (Reuters)
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Nike Plans More Job Cuts to Boost Sputtering Turnaround, Forecasts Steep Revenue Drop

People walk past a Nike store in New York City, US, April 2, 2025. (Reuters)
People walk past a Nike store in New York City, US, April 2, 2025. (Reuters)

Nike is deepening its restructuring under CEO Elliott Hill as its woes in China intensify, announcing a plan to cut more jobs and shake up its global business divisions after the sportswear giant projected a surprisingly steep drop in full-year revenue.

The tepid forecast on Thursday underscored that Nike's challenges will likely persist for at least several more quarters — especially in China, where sales tumbled 26% on a constant-currency basis in the first quarter — adding to investor unease about the pace of Hill's turnaround. Its shares fell 8.5% in extended trading.

The company has been working to revive growth during the first two years of Hill's tenure by refocusing on key sports such as running and by rebuilding relationships with wholesale retailers. But analysts say its worries have in large part stemmed from a failure to release enough new, compelling products, leading to an uptick in promotions and discounts.

"Our Nike performance business is not yet large enough to offset the pressure we're seeing in Nike sportswear, Jordan brand, and Greater ‌China," Hill said on ‌a post-earnings call. Reviving those weak areas of Nike's business "will take time," he said, pointing to a ‌deliberate ⁠reduction in the ⁠volume of Jordan retro launches.

The company, which also missed analysts' expectations for first-quarter revenue, unveiled changes to its operating model, including job cuts and a move to three geographic regions — Americas, Asia Pacific and Greater China, and EMEA — instead of four. It plans to open a new campus in India "with strong capabilities and access to talent."

Nike said the company does not yet know the number of roles that will be cut under the restructuring. It will begin notifying employees in 2027.

The program, building on previous rounds of layoffs, including one announced earlier this year, is expected to deliver about $2.5 billion in savings through fiscal 2031, with the majority set to be realized in fiscal years 2029 and 2030.

Nike expects its revenue to decline in the ⁠high single digit in fiscal 2027. Analysts, on average, estimate full-year revenue to drop about 2%, according ‌to data compiled by LSEG.

"There is nothing inherently wrong with the (restructuring) plans, but they do ‌suggest that Nike's current model is not really fit for purpose, which in turn raises the question of why these changes were not made sooner," ‌said Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData.

CHINA SALES PLUMMET, AGAIN

China, historically a profit-driver for Nike, has shown particular weakness in recent quarters ‌as international rivals and domestic sportswear groups gain traction. Investors remain focused on any signs of improvement, which analysts say will hinge in large part on local product innovation.

Sales in China have fallen for nine consecutive quarters, with the slowdown accelerating in the reported period. The region accounts for about 15% of Nike's annual revenue and is its third-largest market after North America and Europe, the Middle East and Africa.

The company recently said that starting in January, it will pull ‌online sales rights from some of its biggest retail partners in China — a high-stakes bet that tighter control over pricing and distribution can revive its fortunes.

But the digital cleanup will take "multiple seasons," ⁠Hill warned on Thursday, adding that near-term ⁠revenue and profitability in China will take a hit.

Analysts have also questioned whether the abrupt measures, though likely to help Nike address rampant discounting, will convince Chinese consumers that they want what Nike is selling.

"Nike does not have a channel problem in China, but rather a product problem," BNP Paribas senior analyst Laurent Vasilescu has said in a research note, adding that he was surprised by the company's short timeframe to shut down online wholesale in China.

Sales in North America, Nike's biggest region, rose 2% on a constant-currency basis, in one sign of relative strength in the first quarter. Nike's performance business, specifically, contributed to the growth, benefiting from the World Cup, Hill said.

Adding to the company's challenges, French soccer star Kylian Mbappe ended a two-decade-long partnership with Nike in September and joined Swiss-based rival On.

Nike's quarterly sales fell about 4% to $11.21 billion in the first quarter, compared with analysts' average estimate of $11.32 billion.

Its gross margin, however, rose 60 basis points to 42.8% in the quarter ended August 31, helped by lower warehousing and logistics costs.

Hill said Nike would update its targets through the fiscal year, beginning in November, as it works through the restructuring plan.

The company had withdrawn annual forecasts in October 2024 to provide then new-CEO Hill with some flexibility to assess its business.

S&P Dow Jones Indices removed Nike from the S&P 100 in September as part of a quarterly rebalancing after 18 years in the index of blue-chip companies.


Stella McCartney Spotlights Climate Crisis with Ocean-Inspired Paris Runway Show

 A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)
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Stella McCartney Spotlights Climate Crisis with Ocean-Inspired Paris Runway Show

 A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Stella McCartney as part of her Spring/Summer 2027 Women's ready-to-wear collection show during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, September 30, 2026. (Reuters)

Stella ‌McCartney put a spotlight on the impact of overfishing and climate change on the oceans in her Paris runway show on Wednesday, unveiling a Spring/Summer 2027 collection of floaty fabrics, bubble hems and wave motifs.

Killer whales, sharks and dolphins featured on several looks, while models carried transparent handbags with sea creatures such as a starfish inside.

"The fishing industry is stealth, it's war, we're at war with the ocean, we're at war with the creatures that live ‌in there," McCartney, a ‌vegetarian, said after the show, adding that ‌she ⁠wanted people to ⁠ask themselves: "Sea life or seafood — what's my choice?"

McCartney's eponymous brand is known for using no leather, unlike most luxury labels, and for investing in more sustainably produced cotton, wool and other materials. Her handbags are made with leather alternatives produced from mushrooms or grape byproducts sourced from vineyards.

In ⁠the leafy gardens of the British ‌ambassador's residence, the show started with ‌a voiceover from British natural historian and broadcaster David Attenborough ‌saying: "We must open our eyes to what is happening ‌right now below the waves - we have drained the life from our ocean."

Models strode down a white runway in low-rise trousers with raised waves embroidered on the hips, tops with voluminous bubble ‌hems, and fluid, sheer blazers and shirts. The color palette also evoked ocean life ⁠with dresses ⁠in aqua and bright blue, and a coral trench coat.

McCartney, who bought her brand back from luxury giant LVMH at the start of last year, called on big luxury brands to invest in scaling up more sustainable materials like organic cotton or lab-grown wool.

"I think they all have good intentions, I just know that it would help me and smaller brands trying to come up and trying to work in this way, if the big brands just accepted a new way of working and a new supply chain," she said.


Saint Laurent Goes for Gold in Paris Show That May Be Vaccarello’s Finale

 A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)
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Saint Laurent Goes for Gold in Paris Show That May Be Vaccarello’s Finale

 A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP)

Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a head-to-toe gold collection of slinky dresses and textured tailoring at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday.

The spring/summer 2027 show marked 10 years since Vaccarello's first show for the Parisian label owned by luxury group Kering and came amid reports ‌he was ‌set to step down from ‌the ⁠role.

On a raised ⁠runway under a giant gold chandelier, models strode past wearing gold dresses with raised embroidery, gold brocade skirts and jackets with sharp collars, and gold trench coats.

The Eiffel ⁠Tower also glittered gold ‌in the ‌background of the show staged outdoors at the ‌Trocadero fountain, with front-row guests including ‌Blackpink singer Rosé, model Rosie Huntington-Whitely, and Oscar-winning actors Eddie Redmayne and Rami Malek.

Black gowns with billowing sleeves and ‌long trains were the final looks of the show, and Charlotte ⁠Gainsbourg ⁠performed a song in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello came out to applause from the crowd, smiling and waving.

Vaccarello is credited with expanding Saint Laurent's reach. The brand's revenues were down 6% last year but Kering said in July that it had returned to growth in the first half.