In Rubble of Aleppo Souk, Tablecloth Shop Makes Solitary Comeback

A picture taken on July 22, 2017, shows 62-year-old Mohammad Shawash sitting outside his textile shop amid the destruction in the Old City of Aleppo. (AFP)
A picture taken on July 22, 2017, shows 62-year-old Mohammad Shawash sitting outside his textile shop amid the destruction in the Old City of Aleppo. (AFP)
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In Rubble of Aleppo Souk, Tablecloth Shop Makes Solitary Comeback

A picture taken on July 22, 2017, shows 62-year-old Mohammad Shawash sitting outside his textile shop amid the destruction in the Old City of Aleppo. (AFP)
A picture taken on July 22, 2017, shows 62-year-old Mohammad Shawash sitting outside his textile shop amid the destruction in the Old City of Aleppo. (AFP)

It used to be one of the most vibrant marketplaces in the Syrian city of Aleppo, but today, the bombed-out streets of Khan al-Harir are home to a solitary shop selling tablecloths, said an AFP report on Sunday.

Mohammad Shawash's partly restored storefront stands amid a sea of smashed concrete and debris-laden roads.

The 62-year-old with a snow-white beard and glasses decided to return to the historic souk five months ago to reopen the shop he had managed for years.

"I cried when I first came back. I found total destruction all around me. The stores were destroyed, the streets covered in rubble and rocks, and the buildings collapsed," he told AFP.

"So I repaired it myself, to prove to the whole world that Aleppo's Old City still has a soul."

Khan al-Harir, or the Silk Market, lies in the celebrated Old City of central Aleppo, a UNESCO world heritage site.

Its historic covered market was the largest in the world, with some 4,000 shops and 40 caravanserais in a labyrinth of alleyways selling everything from home ware to artisanal products.

For four years, the Old City was on the front line of battles between regime troops in the city's west and rebels in the east.

In December 2016 the regime declared it was once more in control of the whole of Aleppo.

Much of the Old City remains scarred by fighting, but part of the Souk al-Jumruk marketplace reopened last month. Other shopkeepers have slowly begun returning to assess the damage.

Shawash, a native of Khan al-Harir, was one of them.

"I was raised here and I used to open my shop from 7:00am until late at night. I knew everyone around me," he said.

"The streets were full of passers-by, stalls, restaurants and people selling clothes, carpets and furniture. But now there is no one."

When he returned earlier this year to check on his shop, he found a wall had collapsed, the goods were either gone or burned, and the streets were eerily empty.

"It's not just about losing money or stock. I lost my neighbors, I lost my people, I lost myself."

For a week, Shawash piled bricks, cement, and stone in a small wheelbarrow and navigated it through the ravaged streets to repair his shop by hand.

"I would arrive completely exhausted, because the streets are narrow and there was rubble everywhere, which meant cars couldn't get through," he said.

He has since resumed his daily ritual, laying out multicolored plastic tablecloths and mats for display, many of them still wrapped in protective plastic.

Shawash then sits down on a plastic chair and waits for customers, his prayer beads in hand. For hours no one stops, so he packs up his goods, locks the metal door, and heads home.

With a dearth of customers, he said he was barely making enough "to buy a falafel sandwich".

"Before the war, I used to sell between 50,000 and 70,000 pounds ($1,000 and $1,500, depending on the exchange rate) worth of goods," he said.

Shawash insisted Aleppo's young people must return to rebuild their city.

"Aleppo is the symbol of civilization," he said. "I'm proud to be the first one to reopen my shop in this souk, but I hope that life returns to the market."



Surging Travel in Europe Spikes Concerns over Tourism's Drawbacks

FILE - Demonstrators march in downtown Barcelona, Spain, Wednesday, June 19, 2024, as residents protest mass tourism. (AP Photo/Emilio Morenatti, File)
FILE - Demonstrators march in downtown Barcelona, Spain, Wednesday, June 19, 2024, as residents protest mass tourism. (AP Photo/Emilio Morenatti, File)
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Surging Travel in Europe Spikes Concerns over Tourism's Drawbacks

FILE - Demonstrators march in downtown Barcelona, Spain, Wednesday, June 19, 2024, as residents protest mass tourism. (AP Photo/Emilio Morenatti, File)
FILE - Demonstrators march in downtown Barcelona, Spain, Wednesday, June 19, 2024, as residents protest mass tourism. (AP Photo/Emilio Morenatti, File)

Suitcases rattle against cobblestones. Selfie-snappers jostle for the same shot. Ice cream shops are everywhere. Europe has been called the world’s museum, but its record numbers of visitors have also made it ground zero for concerns about overtourism.

Last year, 747 million international travelers visited the continent, far outnumbering any other region in the world, according to the UN's World Tourism Barometer. Southern and Western Europe welcomed more than 70% of them, The Associated Press reported.

As the growing tide of travelers strains housing, water and the most Instagrammable hotspots in the region, protests and measures to lessen the effects of overtourism have proliferated.

Here's a look at the issue in some of Europe's most visited destinations.

What’s causing overtourism Among factors driving the record numbers are cheap flights, social media, the ease of travel planning using artificial intelligence and what UN tourism officials call a strong economic outlook for many rich countries that send tourists despite some geopolitical and economic tensions.

Citizens of countries like the US, Japan, China and the UK generate the most international trips, especially to popular destinations, such as Barcelona in Spain and Venice in Italy. They swarm these places seasonally, creating uneven demand for housing and resources such as water.

Despite popular backlash against the crowds, some tourism officials believe they can be managed with the right infrastructure in place.

Italy's Tourism Minister Daniela Santanchè said she thinks tourism flows at crowded sites such Florence's Uffizi Galleries that house some of the world's most famous artworks could be better managed with AI, with tourists able to buy their tickets when they book their travel, even months in advance, to prevent surges.

She pushed back against the idea that Italy — which like all of its Southern European neighbors, welcomed more international visitors in 2024 than its entire population — has a problem with too many tourists, adding that most visits are within just 4% of the country's territory.

“It’s a phenomenon that can absolutely be managed,” Santanchè told The Associated Press in an interview in her office on Friday. "Tourism must be an opportunity, not a threat — even for local communities. That’s why we are focusing on organizing flows.”

Where overtourism is most intense Countries on the Mediterranean are at the forefront. Olympics-host France, the biggest international destination, last year received 100 million international visitors, while second-place Spain received almost 94 million — nearly double its own population.

Protests have erupted across Spain over the past two years. In Barcelona, the water gun has become a symbol of the city's anti-tourism movement after marching protests have spritzed unsuspecting tourists while carrying signs saying: “One more tourist, one less resident!”

The pressure on infrastructure has been particularly acute on Spain's Canary and Balearic Islands, which have a combined population of less than 5 million people. Each archipelago saw upwards of 15 million visitors last year.

Elsewhere in Europe, tourism overcrowding has vexed Italy's most popular sites including Venice, Rome, Capri and Verona, where Shakespeare's “Romeo and Juliet” was set. On the popular Amalfi Coast, ride-hailing app Uber offers private helicopter and boat rides in the summer to beat the crowds.

Greece, which saw nearly four times as many tourists as its own population last year, has struggled with the strain on water, housing and energy in the summer months, especially on popular islands such as Santorini, Mykonos and others.

The impact of overtourism In Spain, anti-tourism activists, academics, and the government say that overtourism is driving up housing costs in city centers and other popular locations due to the proliferation of short-term rentals that cater to visitors.

Others bemoan changes to the very character of city neighborhoods that drew tourists in the first place.

In Barcelona and elsewhere, activists and academics have said that neighborhoods popular with tourists have seen local shops replaced with souvenir vendors, international chains and trendy eateries.

On some of Greece's most-visited islands, tourism has overlapped with water scarcity as drought grips the Mediterranean country of 10.4 million.

In France, the Louvre, the world’s most-visited museum, shut down this week when its staff went on strike warning that the facility was crumbling beneath the weight of overtourism, stranding thousands of ticketed visitors lined up under the baking sun.

Angelos Varvarousis, a Barcelona- and Athens-based academic and urban planner who studies the industry, said overtourism risks imposing a “monoculture” on many of Europe's hotspots.

“It is combined with the gradual loss and displacement of other social and economic activities,” Varvarousis said.

What authorities are doing to cope Spain's government wants to tackle what officials call the country's biggest governance challenge: its housing crunch.

Last month, Spain's government ordered Airbnb to take down almost 66,000 properties it said had violated local rules — while Barcelona announced a plan last year to phase out all of the 10,000 apartments licensed in the city as short-term rentals by 2028. Officials said the measure was to safeguard the housing supply for full-time residents.

Elsewhere, authorities have tried to regulate tourist flows by cracking down on overnight stays or imposing fees for those visiting via cruises.

In Greece, starting July 1, a cruise tax will be levied on island visitors at 20 euros ($23) for popular destinations like Mykonos and 5 euros ($5.70) for less-visited islands like Samos.

The government has also encouraged visitors to seek quieter locations.
To alleviate water problems, water tankers from mainland Greece have helped parched islands, and the islands have also used desalination technology, which separates salts from ocean water to make it drinkable, to boost their drinking water.

Other measures have included staggered visiting hours at the Acropolis.
Meanwhile, Venice brought back an entry fee this year that was piloted last year on day-trippers who will have to pay between 5 and 10 euros (roughly $6 to $12) to enter the city during the peak season.