Chanel Resurrects Lagerfeld's Punk Princesses

French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)
French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)
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Chanel Resurrects Lagerfeld's Punk Princesses

French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)
French designer Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing so far in Paris to a real fashion show. (AFP)

South Sudanese model Adut Akech was the star of Chanel's teeny-weeny Paris haute couture show Tuesday which featured two "punk princesses".

Designer Virginie Viard said she drew inspiration from her predecessor Karl Lagerfeld for the one-minute 22-second film, no more than a teaser for its autumn-winter collection.

The French designer, who was Lagerfeld's right-hand woman until his death last year, has already signaled that the days of his "pharaonic" extravaganzas are over at the label.

But even for her, this was minimalist.

Paris fashion week has been forced online for the first time in its history by the coronavirus, with labels showing short films of their clothes instead.

While Viard's collections so far for the iconic French house have been marked by soberness and simplicity, this time she channeled the decadence and "shimmering opulence and jewelry" of the Paris nightclub scene over which Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent presided in the late 1970s.

"I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of Le Palace at dawn," she said, referring to a legendary club in the French capital.

"With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers and lots of jewelry. This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to Le Palace, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too," Viard added.

Tears of joy

French designers Alexis Mabille and Stephane Rolland presented the nearest thing to real fashion shows so far, both using one model to show all their looks, while fellow Parisian label Aganovich created a stop motion film with its garments with artist Erik Madigan.

Rolland used the Spanish model Nieves Alvarez, one of Saint Laurent's final muses, to show his black and white collection inspired by pop art.

Full of long and languorous looks, he told AFP he wanted to create "cocoon forms that were protective and generous" as well as glamorous.

But perhaps the day's most poetic offering was from the Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato who instead of teasing a collection, asked people from around the world to send him old white shirts they had been attached to which he then recut and transformed.

One Japanese woman gave him her dead mother's shirt, which like a kimono she wanted to hand down to future generations of her family.

Nakazato talked to each of his clients by video link about the history of their shirt before reimagining it, and then sending it off to them in a box.

The designer, who wears his studio white coat throughout the film, said the idea of the charity project, called "Face to Face", was to give people "courage and hope... at a time when our ability to meet people physically is limited".

Having drawn out his clients' stories, some were brought to tears by his creations and others were so awed by the "work of art" that they screamed with joy when they opened their box.



Nike Shares Rise as Apple’s Cook Doubles His Bet on CEO Hill’s Overhaul Effort

A jogger wearing Nike shoes runs along the Charles River in Cambridge, Massachusetts, US, March 18, 2019. (Reuters)
A jogger wearing Nike shoes runs along the Charles River in Cambridge, Massachusetts, US, March 18, 2019. (Reuters)
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Nike Shares Rise as Apple’s Cook Doubles His Bet on CEO Hill’s Overhaul Effort

A jogger wearing Nike shoes runs along the Charles River in Cambridge, Massachusetts, US, March 18, 2019. (Reuters)
A jogger wearing Nike shoes runs along the Charles River in Cambridge, Massachusetts, US, March 18, 2019. (Reuters)

Nike shares rose 5% in early trading on Wednesday after Apple CEO Tim Cook doubled his personal stake in the sportswear maker, raising his bets on the margin-pinching turnaround efforts led by CEO Elliott Hill.

Cook, who has been on Nike's board since 2005, bought 50,000 shares at $58.97 ‌each, according to ‌a regulatory filing. As of December ‌22, ⁠he holds about ‌105,000 shares, which is now worth nearly $6 million.

It was the largest open market stock purchase for a Nike director or executive and possibly the largest in more than a decade, said Jonathan Komp, analyst at Baird Equity Research.

"(We see) Cook's move as a positive signal for the progress under CEO Elliott Hill and Nike's 'Win ⁠Now' actions," Komp said.

The purchase comes days after Nike reported weaker quarterly margins and weak ‌sales in China even as CEO ‍Hill tries to revive demand ‍through fresh marketing plans and innovation focused on running and sports, ‍while phasing out lagging lifestyle brands.

He has also attempted to mend Nike's ties with wholesalers such as Dicks Sporting Goods to increase visibility among shoppers amid stiff competition from newer brands.

However, the strategy has strained Nike's margins, which have been declining for over a year, while its efforts to win back its ⁠premier position in discount-friendly China appears to be faltering.

Nike's shares have slumped nearly 13% since it reported results on December 18 and are on track for the fourth straight year of declines. They were trading at $60.19 on Wednesday.

Cook has been a lead independent director of Nike since 2016 when co-founder Phil Knight stepped down as its chairman.

The Apple CEO "remains extremely close" with Knight, Komp said, adding that he has advised Nike through key strategic decisions including Hill's appointment last year.

Board director and former Intel CEO ‌Robert Swan also bought about 8,700 shares for about $500,000 this week.


Etro Founding Family Exits Group as New Investors Including Türkiye's RAMS Global Join

L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters
L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters
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Etro Founding Family Exits Group as New Investors Including Türkiye's RAMS Global Join

L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters
L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner. Reuters

The founding family of Italian fashion house Etro has sold the minority stake it still owned in the brand to a group of investors including Turkish group RAMS Global, the company said on Friday.

L Catterton, a private equity firm backed by French luxury giant LVMH, will remain Etro's majority owner and "will continue to actively support the brand's long-term growth strategy," Etro added, according to Reuters.

The new investors comprise also Italian fashion group Swinger International and small private equity firm ⁠RSI.

In addition to buying the stake, they all subscribed to a capital increase that will lower L Catterton's holding in Etro to between 51% and 55% from around 65%.

When including both the acquisition and the capital increase, the deal is worth around 70 ⁠million euros ($82 million), two sources close to the matter said. Etro did not disclose financial details.

Chief Executive Fabrizio Cardinali will remain at the helm, while Faruk Bülbül, representing RAMS Global, will become chairman of the board.

L Catterton bought a 60% stake in the brand known for its paisley motif four years ago, and it slightly increased the holding over the years.

The company, founded by Gimmo Etro in 1968, has ⁠been struggling with its turnaround. Last year it posted a net loss of 23 million euros with net revenues declining to 245 million euros from 261 million euros, according to filings with the local chambers of commerce reviewed by Reuters.

Rothschild advised L Catterton and the Etro family on the deal.

Rothschild had been hired in 2024 to look for a new investor who could buy all or part of the Etro fashion group, sources had previously told Reuters.


Paris Court Rejects Bid to Suspend Shein Platform in France

A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
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Paris Court Rejects Bid to Suspend Shein Platform in France

A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo
A customer holds shopping bags with a Shein logo in the first physical space of Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein on the day of its opening inside the Le BHV Marais department store, the Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, in Paris, France, November 5, 2025. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo

A Paris court on Friday rejected a government request to suspend Chinese fast-fashion platform Shein in France after authorities found illegal weapons and child-like sex dolls for sale on the fast-fashion giant’s website.

Shein welcomed the decision, saying it remains committed to strengthening its control processes in cooperation with French authorities.

“Our priority remains protecting French consumers and ensuring compliance with local laws and regulations," the company said in an emailed statement to The Associated Press.

The controversy dates to early November, when France’s consumer watchdog and Finance Ministry moved toward suspending Shein’s online marketplace after authorities said they had found childlike sex dolls and prohibited “Class A” weapons listed for sale, even as the company opened its first permanent store in Paris.

French authorities gave Shein hours to remove the items. The company responded by banning the products and largely shutting down third-party marketplace listings in France.

French officials have also asked the European Commission to examine how illegal products were able to appear on the platform under EU rules governing large online intermediaries.