Odes to Beirut

An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
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Odes to Beirut

An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)
An aerial view of Beirut. (AFP)

A book of insights, reflections and recollections of memories of growing up in Beirut, and the pain of separation and nostalgia, is to be released soon by Dar Nelson Publishing House. It comes as the Lebanese capital is in the midst of one of the darkest moments of its history and attempts to resurrect the city and revive hope in its soul.

Interestingly, the book entitled “The Beirut Quartet”, presents itself as a series of odesto the tormented city. It was written between 2014 and 2019, and was complete before the terrible blast that struck Port of Beirut. But, to its readers, the book appears to have been born out of their suffering, not that of the recent past.

The book’s author, a Lebanese expat by the name of Faris al-Haramouni al-Mahajri, wrote its odes from his distant home. He recollects his childhood and the days of his life and contemplates the many faces of his city and its neighborhoods; he addresses it:

“You cannot be done without ... the enchanter of history and the incubator of my youth
From you come sailing boats... laurel, basil, and elderberry
Ishtar, Adonis and their disciples
And the cedar wood of divine shrines
The queens dreamed of you as a crown on their heads
They left mourning, bewildered
Because they did not reside in you.”

In the book, the author recalls Beirut’s landmarks. He almost tours the city street by street and monument by monument.

“The Evangelical Church, the Americans’ School, Hamra Street, Raouche’s Cafes, Horse Shoe, Fairouz’s Piccadilly, sycamore trees, chinaberry trees, gardens of basil and lemon trees, jasmine bushes and cactus trees. The tramway, Faysal’s for wealthy Arabists and Saber, the king of falafel, for poor students, Uncle Sam for the Americans, the shores’ lighthouse, the sunset’s magnificence and the waves’ radiance.”

Like locations, he recalls people, addressing his capital saying: “They departed and left you behind; they were not all Lebanese, it is not just Gibran, Rihani, Naima, Onsi al-Hajj, Shoushou, Youssef al-Khal and Poetry Magazine that left, but also Zorba Kazantzakis, Laurence Daryl, Pablo Neruda, Camus and De Gaulle... referencing Beirut’s historical and cultural junctures bringing together figures and events of the East and the West.

After the flood of names that have passed through the city, the author stops at the final a juncture where “only Fairuz’s ballads bring hope. She sings and prays for invigoration, for a Beirut reinvigoration that one day revives all deities, the youngest, the eldest and those in-between, their clay, their gold and their marble, brides of the murex red jinn (genies), the blue-and-white scarfs, the philosophers, every whim and approach, and the splendor of colors, so that the people are lifted with them and sing along with them, at the top of their lungs, building and creating.”

The odes oscillate between description and emotion, reproach and hope, and praise and condemnation. The book is an amalgamation of sentiments, and its author wanted them to be personal to the same extent that it evokes collective memories. It is perhaps the kind of book that appeals to millions of Lebanese expatriates, including the book’s author. It wanders between events, evokes the paths of the stars of modern times, Beirut’s cultural junctures, and surveys its flora, flowers, trees, and even its stones and the rocks on which its first buildings and structures were built. Thus “it was perfumed with rose water and basil, crowned with roses and murex, it was adorned, ornated, exhilarated and educated with letters and knowledge.

He concludes with sentimental words for his suffering capital: “Enlighten the sinners’ minds, expel the evils stalking us from all sides, shower us with good deeds, and present yourself as our mother and mediate among us.”



Athens' Ancient Theater Hosts Final Festival Season Before Closing for 3-year Restoration

Performers and musicians take part in Giacomo Puccini's "Turandot" dress rehearsal by the Greek National Opera at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus during the 70th Athens Epidaurus Festival in Athens, Greece, Friday, May 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Thanassis Stavrakis)
Performers and musicians take part in Giacomo Puccini's "Turandot" dress rehearsal by the Greek National Opera at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus during the 70th Athens Epidaurus Festival in Athens, Greece, Friday, May 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Thanassis Stavrakis)
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Athens' Ancient Theater Hosts Final Festival Season Before Closing for 3-year Restoration

Performers and musicians take part in Giacomo Puccini's "Turandot" dress rehearsal by the Greek National Opera at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus during the 70th Athens Epidaurus Festival in Athens, Greece, Friday, May 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Thanassis Stavrakis)
Performers and musicians take part in Giacomo Puccini's "Turandot" dress rehearsal by the Greek National Opera at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus during the 70th Athens Epidaurus Festival in Athens, Greece, Friday, May 30, 2025. (AP Photo/Thanassis Stavrakis)

For visitors to Athens, the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus is the must-see theater at the foot of the Acropolis. Artists revere it for the majestic stage where legends have performed. And for the Greek capital's residents it is the touchstone of their summer cultural calendar.

The Odeon of Herod Atticus recently opened the 70th season of the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival, a cherished annual tradition for many Greeks. But this edition marks the last before the theater that’s more than 18 centuries old shuts down for maintenance and restoration work that is expected to last at least three years.

While theater and dance grace its stage, music is its cornerstone. Renowned artists who have performed here include Luciano Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, Coldplay, and Greece’s own Maria Callas.

Its closure will be a profound loss for spectators who have long enjoyed first-class performances under the stars in one of the world’s most iconic open-air theaters, The Associated Press reported.

“When (people) think of the Athens cultural scene, everyone thinks of the festival and Herodion,” said Katerina Evangelatos, the festival’s artistic director since 2019, calling the theater by its commonly used Greek name. “It has become a synonym of the festival. It is the heart of the festival.”

When the Greek National Opera opened this season’s festival with Giacomo Puccini’s opera Turandot, it erected temporary structures behind the Roman-era odeon’s arched walls to expand available space for performers’ dressing rooms. The permanent underground facilities weren’t enough.

The production also needed more space inside the venue to accommodate the scale of the production.

To meet the opera’s scenic and casting demands, a crew constructed a wooden, balcony-like platform to partially extend over the orchestra pit.

This adaption allowed space for the large cast and complex staging, including the emblematic scene in which the emperor, Turandot’s elderly father, is ceremonially rolled out in his towering throne to watch suitors attempt to solve his daughter's riddles — at the risk of execution. The scene requires significant simultaneous on-stage presence by multiple performers.

‘It’s like entering a temple’ Giorgos Koumendakis, the Greek National Opera’s artistic director, describes the Herod Atticus Odeon as “a strained, fatigued space” which still commands widespread veneration.

“People who are conscious, cultivated, educated — who understand what this space is, its historical significance, the importance of the festival, and the history of the Greek National Opera — respect it deeply and enter it almost reverently,” said Koumendakis. “It’s like entering a temple — a temple of art — and it truly has an impact. I can see it from the singers and the orchestra, too. When they come here, they genuinely want to give their all."

During previous restoration and conservation projects, the Herod Atticus Odeon had surfaces cleaned, cracks filled with grout and new seating installed. This time, the scope of the work will depend on findings from the studies still underway.

Culture Minister Lina Mendoni said that although the venue’s closing date is certain, at the end of summer, its reopening is not.

“This will depend on the problems that the studies will reveal,” she said in an interview to Greek radio station Skai last month. “What is certain is that at least three years will be needed.”

A long intermission The closure of the Herod Atticus means the Athens Epidaurus Festival will need to consider alternatives for the next few years. Evangelatos reflected on the festival’s 70 years, noting that it began during Greece's turbulent postwar years of political division and economic hardship.
“It’s a miracle of survival and artistic legacy,” she said.

On the festival's opening night, the backstage area was abuzz with final preparations, with wigs styled, masks adjusted and costumes touched up.
Soprano Lise Lindstrom, who starred as Turandot, took in the gravity of the setting.

“It’s an absolutely magical atmosphere here. To be able to stand on the stage and look directly up and see the Acropolis is a little bit mind-blowing, I have to admit,” she said. “And then also to look out and see all the people sitting there and just being so absorbed into the performance. It’s very, very powerful and magical.”

All eyes were on Lindstrom as she took center stage beneath the stars — marking the start of a final season before a long intermission.