Catwalk on a Sand Dune's Crest - Saint Laurent Takes Distancing in its Stride

Saint Laurent’s presentation of its 2021 Women’s Summer collection showed models walking on the crest of a tall sand dune in the middle of a honey-colored desert. (Saint Laurent)
Saint Laurent’s presentation of its 2021 Women’s Summer collection showed models walking on the crest of a tall sand dune in the middle of a honey-colored desert. (Saint Laurent)
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Catwalk on a Sand Dune's Crest - Saint Laurent Takes Distancing in its Stride

Saint Laurent’s presentation of its 2021 Women’s Summer collection showed models walking on the crest of a tall sand dune in the middle of a honey-colored desert. (Saint Laurent)
Saint Laurent’s presentation of its 2021 Women’s Summer collection showed models walking on the crest of a tall sand dune in the middle of a honey-colored desert. (Saint Laurent)

There were no spectators, no influencers, no fashionistas, at Saint Laurent’s presentation of its 2021 Women’s Summer collection, only drone footage of models walking on the crest of a tall sand dune in the middle of a honey-colored desert.

Every year, France’s top fashion houses compete to find the most spectacular locations in Paris to host their women’s wear shows, but with catwalks closed because of the coronavirus pandemic, brands now try do outdo each other with spectacular locations for their online-only shows.

Already in the first wave of the pandemic in April, Saint Laurent, owned by the Kering conglomerate, broke away from the usual twice-yearly calendar of women’s catwalk shows in Paris.

It revealed its latest collection on Tuesday, designed by Anthony Vaccarello, with a 10-minute Vaccarello fashion film called “I wish you were here”.

Models, some of them struggling to walk in the sand with high heels, showed off sensuous evening wear, others boardroom-ready conservative pantsuits.

The models also donned tight-fitting ribbed skirts under black leather jackets, figure-hugging black dresses with a top-to-bottom zipper, sheer halter dresses and gold-and-black brocade jackets.

The looks were interspersed with some flowing dresses with floral motives. Many models sported YSL-branded mini beltbags to match.

As night fell over the desert - Saint Laurent declined to reveal the location, only saying it was “a desert in the north” - models walked along a ridge of fire burning on the dune’s crest, the flames reflected in the evening sparkle, gold embroidery and Claude Lalanne-designed jewelry.

Saint Laurent said the film was “an invitation for escapism”, without specifying from what. From COVID-19, presumably, and from the year 2020.



Pharrell Bigs Up Brown Denim as Paris Fashion Week Starts

Pharrell Williams at a Louis Vuitton Paris show last year. ALAIN JOCARD / AFP/File
Pharrell Williams at a Louis Vuitton Paris show last year. ALAIN JOCARD / AFP/File
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Pharrell Bigs Up Brown Denim as Paris Fashion Week Starts

Pharrell Williams at a Louis Vuitton Paris show last year. ALAIN JOCARD / AFP/File
Pharrell Williams at a Louis Vuitton Paris show last year. ALAIN JOCARD / AFP/File

Paris Men's Fashion Week kicks off Tuesday with shows by big hitters Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton, with American singer-turned-designer Pharrell Williams teasing his latest creation -- "coffee bean brown" denims.

The man who got the world dancing to his catchy hit "Happy" predicted the new Louis Vuitton jeans he will unveil at his Paris show will become a "future staple" in fashionable wardrobes, reported AFP.

Williams posted a rear-end photo of the roomy medium-brown jeans on Instagram, saying they are "woven -- not dyed", and are finished with an untreated leather belt loop echoing Vuitton's monogram and the fashion house's trunk-making roots.

He also posted pictures of a matching denim jacket, finished with brassy buttons, over a white shirt and brown and beige striped T-shirt.

The singer and producer usually draws a galaxy of music, film and sports stars to his Paris shows, the locations often as glamorous as his guest list.

This time Williams is putting his Vuitton bags down in front of the Pompidou Center modern art museum just before the architectural icon closes for a major overhaul.

US basketball legend LeBron James and French San Antonio Spurs star Victor "Wemby" Wembanyama are likely to be there as ambassadors for the brand, as well as Olympic swimming sensation Leon Marchand.

The invitation sent to guests, a set of dice in a leather keyring case, hints that the designer may be taking something of a gamble.

Saint Laurent back

Saint Laurent also returns to the fashion week fold Tuesday after a two-and-a-half-year absence from the Paris men's shows.

Heads have been rolling across much of the luxury industry as bumper profits have plunged.

Saint Laurent's parent group Kering is no exception, with a drop in sales last year wiping 28 percent off its share price since the turn of the year.

But shares shot back up 12 percent last week after former Renault boss Luca de Meo was named as Kering's new chief executive.

Fashion buyer Alice Feillard of Galeries Lafayette, Europe's biggest department store chain, said the return of Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello to the men's fashion week was "rather a good thing", and would help reinforce the label's men's line.

Vaccarello teased his summer 2026 collection with a picture of a bronzed young Adonis stretched out on a bed on a beach.

The packed six days of Paris shows are in stark contrast to London -- which cancelled its men's shows completely -- and the rather thinned-out line-up in Milan last week.

Anderson's Dior debut

Instead the French capital will see a "rather dense program with big headliners including Jonathan Anderson", who will be making his highly anticipated debut at Dior, said Adrien Communier of French GQ magazine.

The Northern Irish designer is the first to oversee both the men's, women's and haute couture lines at the fabled French house since its founder Christian Dior.

In all, some 70 brands will unveil their latest looks across 40 runway shows and 30 presentations that end late Sunday with the French label Jacquemus.

Anderson, the son of former Irish rugby captain Willie Anderson, who had previously turned around the rather fusty Spanish house Loewe, was named as the head of Dior's women's collection earlier this month, replacing the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Belgian Julian Klausner, 33, who took over at Dries Van Noten in December, will also show his first men's collection for the label on Wednesday.

Communier predicted the trend for stripes "which we saw a lot in Milan is going to continue".

But with men's fashion becoming a "little bit dull" in recent years, he said we "really need to be surprised".