Italian Fashion Brand Zegna Trims Hopes for Full Recovery in 2021

A screen displays Ermenegildo Zegna’s digital FallWinter 2021 Men’s fashion collection, on January 15, 2021 in downtown Milan. (Getty Images)
A screen displays Ermenegildo Zegna’s digital FallWinter 2021 Men’s fashion collection, on January 15, 2021 in downtown Milan. (Getty Images)
TT

Italian Fashion Brand Zegna Trims Hopes for Full Recovery in 2021

A screen displays Ermenegildo Zegna’s digital FallWinter 2021 Men’s fashion collection, on January 15, 2021 in downtown Milan. (Getty Images)
A screen displays Ermenegildo Zegna’s digital FallWinter 2021 Men’s fashion collection, on January 15, 2021 in downtown Milan. (Getty Images)

Ermenegildo Zegna’s CEO fears the Italian luxury clothing group will not reach a full recovery in 2021 after the coronavirus crisis bit into industry-wide revenues last year, but is still confident of a strong recovery in the second half.

The ongoing rise in COVID-19 infections around the world is cooling growth expectations for the sector this year despite the start of vaccinations in many key markets.

“I think 2021 will be between 2019 and 2020 levels. It will certainly not be worse than last year. I dare not make more ambitious estimates, the first half of the year seems not easy,” CEO Gildo Zegna told reporters on the sidelines of a press conference for the autumn/winter 2021 collection.

“But we are certainly more ready than last year to face the situation,” he added.

In 2020, the group reported a drop in sales of just over 20%, Zegna said. “We managed to stay above 1 billion euros in revenues, which was my target, and preserve cash and keep a core profit thanks to cost cutting.”

China, where demand for luxury goods has rebounded strongly since the summer, and digital sales, which boomed during the pandemic “have been our lungs”, Zegna said.

The group kicked off Milan Men’s Fashion Week with a “fashion movie” released online.

Next winter’s collection was designed with new habits in mind as people spend more time at home.

More formal clothes have given way to fluid and unstructured ones, still very tailored and made with luxury fabrics. And for the first time, Zegna is offering the same clothes in smaller sizes for women.

“I think that in the future we will dress more and more ‘Silicon Valley style’, inside like outside, him like her,” Gildo Zegna stated, indicating the group’s strategy is moving from formal to more informal clothing.



Tan Leather, Trio of Protestors Parade Hermes Catwalk in Paris

Models present creations by Hermes for the Women Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on September 28, 2024. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)
Models present creations by Hermes for the Women Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on September 28, 2024. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)
TT

Tan Leather, Trio of Protestors Parade Hermes Catwalk in Paris

Models present creations by Hermes for the Women Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on September 28, 2024. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)
Models present creations by Hermes for the Women Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on September 28, 2024. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)

For her spring summer runway show, Hermes designer Nadege Vanhee sent out a parade of mesh crop tops and calfskin coats in tan hues on Saturday, a lineup that was briefly interrupted by three animal rights activists.
The show was kicking off with a series of light, beige looks -- loose trousers, sheer tops and a suede coat cinched in the back -- when the first protestor from the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) group burst on to the catwalk, wielding a sign calling for the label to stop using exotic skins, Reuters reported.
She was wrestled out of a side door by security guards just before the next model arrived, dressed in a buttery leather bomber jacket paired with a high waisted culotte.
Security guards nabbed another protestor who jumped on the catwalk shortly after, rushing her out the same side door in time for the next look -- a sheer top in ivory that matched the model's trousers and handbag.
The parade continued, featuring long sheer skirts unzipped to the thighs, bright pink dresses and belted outerwear.
When a third protestor suddenly appeared, the audience gasped. Her appearance was also brief, and the show continued.
It is not the first time PETA protestors have targeted the French label, known for its highly-coveted Birkin bags, with versions in exotic skins famous for fetching prices reaching as much as several hundred thousand dollars in auctions.
Paris Fashion Week, which started on Sept. 23, features dozens of brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Chanel and Victoria Beckham, wraps up Oct. 1.
PETA also targeted the Dior show earlier this week for the brand's use of feathers, with just one protestor very briefly entering the catwalk.