Passion for Pigeons Persists in Arab World

An Egyptian pigeon fancier releases one of his pigeons from its coop against the backdrop of the Giza pyramids | AFP
An Egyptian pigeon fancier releases one of his pigeons from its coop against the backdrop of the Giza pyramids | AFP
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Passion for Pigeons Persists in Arab World

An Egyptian pigeon fancier releases one of his pigeons from its coop against the backdrop of the Giza pyramids | AFP
An Egyptian pigeon fancier releases one of his pigeons from its coop against the backdrop of the Giza pyramids | AFP

Atop his humble wooden dovecote overlooking the majestic Giza pyramids, Abdel-Rahman Gamal released 20 homing pigeons sending them soaring up into the Cairo sky reddened by the setting sun.

"It's a lovely hobby that keeps you busy while you're at home and keeps you on the straight and narrow," said Gamal, 30, who has been raising pigeons since he was six.

He told AFP he inherited his deep love for pigeons from his grandfather and uncle.

Along with his younger brother Omar, 28, they keep about 40 pigeons on the roof of their family building in Nazlet al-Samman, in western Cairo.

Ahmed Khalifa, head of the Egyptian Federation for Homing Pigeons, said the ancient tradition dates back to the time of the pharaohs.

"Pigeons were engraved on the walls of temples," he said.

Handed down through the generations, the practice of domesticating pigeons stretches across borders from the banks of the Nile across north Africa and beyond, with people not only training birds for competitions, but also serving them up as a dining delicacy.

- Sky-high prizes -

Neither regional instability nor the Covid-19 pandemic have dampened enthusiasm for keeping the birds and popular pigeon races still draw crowds.

In war-torn Syria, the battered economy has forced some pigeon fanciers to sell their precious birds to make ends meet.

Markets for breeders have sprung up in refugee camps in rebel-held northwestern Idlib, while races still attract ardent fans seeking a respite from the conflict, an AFP reporter said.

In Yemen where a six-year deadly civil war has left the country on the brink of famine, according to the UN, pigeon races were still being held last year.

And in Iraq, where breeders were once viewed as immoral or unreliable, the practice has taken flight again in recent years.

At auction, racing pigeons can fetch from tens of dollars to several thousands for the most prized, and one Iraqi feathered friend was sold in recent years for an eye-popping $180,000.

The pandemic however has forced a temporary pause in competitions in Morocco.

"We hope that they come back this year," said Salaheddine Khannouss, deputy head of the kingdom's national organization for pigeon racing.

Racing pigeons can reach speeds of up to 100 kilometers (60 miles) per hour and can cover distances of hundreds of kilometers, the Egyptian Federation's Khalifa said.

The body organizes two major contests annually, with one race from Cairo to Salloum, near the Libyan border, a distance of about 600 kilometers, and a second from the capital to Aswan deep in Egypt's south -- over 700 kilometers away.

- 'Pigeon wars' -

Dotted around the rooftops of Cairo's greying buildings are colorfully painted dovecotes -- known as gheya in Arabic -- which provide huge shelters to house pigeon nests.

In daily ad-hoc contests involving thousands of birds launched from the rooftops, fanciers try to poach each other's pets to add to their own flock in a fierce competition which can net prizes of up to $160,000.

Gamal's family mark their pigeons with rings attached to their feet carrying their date of birth, and his name and contact details.

"If a rogue pigeon flies down to me, it's mine. It's my hostage," Gamal said. In the coming days, his rival fancier will try either to win back the lost pigeon or fork out a 'ransom' for it.

Gamal said he pays between $1 to $65 for each of his birds, depending on their breed, their feather color, and their racing stamina.

Younger brother Omar prefers to focus on the competitive aspect of keeping birds.

"Pigeons are like soccer players when they enter the pitch and I'm their coach," he joked.

- Delicious grilled or stuffed -

Others prefer a more culinary experience when it comes to pigeons, opting for stuffed or grilled choices served up in dishes from Morocco to the Gulf.

In Egypt, rice or freek (a green grain made from wheat) is masterfully stuffed into the birds' diminutive bodies.



Turkish Citizens Fleeing Lebanon Mourn the Homes and Family Left Behind

Emergency teams and military personnel help people mostly Turkish nationals to disembark from a Turkish TCG Sancaktar military ship after being evacuated from Lebanon's capital Beirut to Türkiye, in Mersin port, southern Türkiye, early Friday, Oct. 11, 2024. (AP Photo/Emrah Gurel)
Emergency teams and military personnel help people mostly Turkish nationals to disembark from a Turkish TCG Sancaktar military ship after being evacuated from Lebanon's capital Beirut to Türkiye, in Mersin port, southern Türkiye, early Friday, Oct. 11, 2024. (AP Photo/Emrah Gurel)
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Turkish Citizens Fleeing Lebanon Mourn the Homes and Family Left Behind

Emergency teams and military personnel help people mostly Turkish nationals to disembark from a Turkish TCG Sancaktar military ship after being evacuated from Lebanon's capital Beirut to Türkiye, in Mersin port, southern Türkiye, early Friday, Oct. 11, 2024. (AP Photo/Emrah Gurel)
Emergency teams and military personnel help people mostly Turkish nationals to disembark from a Turkish TCG Sancaktar military ship after being evacuated from Lebanon's capital Beirut to Türkiye, in Mersin port, southern Türkiye, early Friday, Oct. 11, 2024. (AP Photo/Emrah Gurel)

Eyup Sabri Kirgiz gathered up his loved ones — both family and pets — and with a heavy heart left his beloved city of Beirut behind, after two weeks of deadly airstrikes that had traumatized his family.

The 50-year old Turkish engineer who moved to the Lebanese capital 21 years ago, was living in the Ein Rummaneh neighborhood, close to Beirut's southern suburbs, an area known as Dahiyeh that has been the target of heavy Israeli airstrikes amid an escalation of the war in the Middle East, this time between as Israel launched war on Lebanon.

“For the last two weeks or so, we had been feeling all those bombs as if they were exploding in the house,” said Kirgiz, who along with his Lebanese wife, two children and his mother-in-law was among hundreds of people who were evacuated from Lebanon on Thursday aboard two Turkish navy ships.

“There was no sleep or anything. We would just sit until the morning. You can only sleep when the drones go away. It is impossible to sleep with that drone sound anyway,” Kirgiz told The Associated Press on board the TCG Sancaktar. The AP was the only nongovernment media that was invited aboard the vessels to cover the evacuation operation.

It's been a year of war. Hezbollah launched rockets into Israel from Lebanon on Oct. 8, 2023, one day after the Hamas-led attack in southern Israel that led to the Israeli offensive in Gaza, and Israel and Hezbollah have been trading attacks since then. But since the fighting escalated in mid-September, more than 1,400 people have been killed in Lebanon and over a million displaced.

The almost 1,000 evacuees — mostly Turkish citizens and their foreign-born spouses — on board the TCG Sancaktar, and its sister landing vessel, the TCG Bayraktar, napped or sat on camp beds surrounded by the few belongings they could bring. Aid workers on board the vessels distributed sandwiches and refreshments during the 12-hour crossing to the Turkish Mediterranean port of Mersin.

Previous Turkish government figures put the number of people to be evacuated at close to 2,000. A security official, speaking on condition of anonymity in line with government rules, said some people who had expressed interest in leaving did not show up.

Kirgiz spent much of the journey tending to his dogs, Bella and Ammun — as well as their pet turtle, Coco, which he kept in a shoe-box — to ensure that they did not disturb slumbering fellow passengers.

The air was stuffy, making the journey uncomfortable at times.

A 75-year-old passenger on board the ship was evacuated by helicopter to northern Cyprus after he suffered a heart attack during the voyage. He later died in the hospital, the security official said.

Kirgiz, who describes himself as “the lover of Beirut” said he hopes to return there soon.

“I’ll see what the situation is like in a week or 10 days. I’ll wait for things to calm down a bit. After that, if I think it’s no longer dangerous, I’ll go back. Because I love this place so much. And after, (the plan) is to bring back the family and children,” Kirgiz said.

Turkish-born Dilber Taleb and her Lebanese-born husband Ahmad, who live in Australia, were on holiday in Lebanon when the conflict escalated. They were spending time with Ahmad's parents so that they could get to know their infant grandson, Khaldun.

Although their neighborhood was not targeted by the Israeli strikes, the couple grabbed the opportunity to leave Lebanon.

“You’re anxious every day. When you are under stress, you worry whether something will happen, whether they will block the road or bomb something. That’s why he wanted to leave Lebanon as soon as possible," said Dilber Taleb.

Her husband sounded tormented at having to leave his parents behind.

“My parents, they are only Lebanese (nationals), they’re not Turkish citizens or Australian citizens like us,” he said. “But I wish in the future I can take them with us, maybe to Türkiye or to Australia. Because we can’t stay living under this stress.”

Among other passengers on board the vessel was Goncagul Udigwe, her Nigerian husband Callistos and their 7-month-old daughter, Hilda. They had moved to Lebanon, where he ran his own business, just five months ago.

The family decided to leave Lebanon because they feared it would turn into “another Gaza,” she said as the family waited to board the ship in Beirut. Speaking again to AP journalists as she disembarked in Mersin, she felt a rush of relief.

“Right now I am extremely happy that we are reunited (with Türkiye) safe and sound. I am in my own land, I feel safe, I feel at peace."

Udigwe continued: “But of course, I feel very sorry for those who have to stay there (in Lebanon) because they are not in a good situation at all. They sleep on the sidewalks, in cars. So it’s very difficult. I’ve never seen anything like this before. I’ve never experienced anything like this in my own country.”

The ships arrived back in Türkiye late Thursday and early Friday. The exhausted passengers were bused to another area of the port to pass through immigration checks.

The two ships were part of a convoy of six-vessels that departed Mersin on Wednesday, carrying some 300 tons of humanitarian aid to Lebanon, including food, tents and blankets. AP journalists on board the Sancaktar could hear the sound of drones flying above the ships, while the aid was being unloaded and the evacuees were boarding.