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Scorched Earth in Syria’s Daraa al-Balad

Women walk amid the destruction in Daraa al-Balad on Saturday. (AFP)
Women walk amid the destruction in Daraa al-Balad on Saturday. (AFP)
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Scorched Earth in Syria’s Daraa al-Balad

Women walk amid the destruction in Daraa al-Balad on Saturday. (AFP)
Women walk amid the destruction in Daraa al-Balad on Saturday. (AFP)

Some people have returned to destroyed houses or scorched earth. Others returned to homes that have been stripped bare of their belongings.

This is the situation in Daraa al-Balad after a Russian-sponsored agreement led to a de-escalation of tensions between the regime and remaining opposition in southern Syria.

Despite the losses, the people have rejoiced at a major accomplishment, which is staying in their city and avoiding displacement. They have gone about removing the rubble and resuming their daily lives amid the destruction and the lingering smell of gunpowder in the air.

“The heavy shelling did not spare a thing,” “Abou Jihad” told Asharq Al-Awsat. “Look around you, houses have been leveled to the ground and entire areas are unrecognizable.”

“Yesterday, we were displaced, fighters and negotiators, today, we are builders. We have started to clean the city and houses that have been destroyed,” he continued.

“We will restore the beaty of the city and rebuild the Omari mosque and what it stands for. We regret what happened. We are a peace-loving people, who want to lead a dignified life away from the grip of the security forces or military,” he stressed.

“We have paid dearly for this in Daraa. A reality has been imposed on us. We don’t know what the coming days have in store for the city given the establishment of nine military posts around the area,” he stated.

Greatest accomplishment
A member of the central committee in Daraa told Asharq Al-Awsat that the locals managed to cling on to their lands. They have thwarted the plot to introduce demographic change in the area.

Their sons persevered against the forces of the Fourth and Sixth Divisions, as well as the Iranian militias, amid constant shelling and daily attempts to capture neighborhoods that were besieged for 73 days, he noted.

The withdrawal of Iranian militias from Daraa al-Balad on Thursday morning after a 78-day siege is the people’s greatest accomplishment, he declared.

“The negotiations carried out and decisions reached in Daraa were locally-made and not affiliated with any agenda, country or opposition,” he stressed

“The people of Daraa are no warmongers, but the conflict and siege were imposed on them,” he went on to say.

“They have managed to thwart all plots that were aimed at dragging them towards escalation and war,” he added, saying 35 people paid with their life in defending their homes.

Stench of death
Activist Raafat Abazeid told Asharq Al-Awsat that Daraa al-Balad is like a “ghost town” of rubble and destruction. “The stench of death is everywhere.”

“The people, however, have shown determination the moment they returned to their city. They rejoiced at remaining on their land and that is priceless,” he stressed.

The moment they returned, they went about cleaning the Omari mosque. They then cleared out houses and have tried their best to make them livable. Some have lost their homes and are staying with their neighbors. Others erected tents over the rubble of their homes. “This shows their attachment to their land in spite of the destruction,” he added.

A resident, “Abou Mohammed”, said life essentials such as water and electricity are non-existent in Daraa al-Balad.

The locals have resorted to transporting drinking water from irrigation wells to large tanks ahead of distributing them to houses at their own expense.

“As for electricity, it is already non-existent in Syria, so what can be expected in Daraa al-Balad, which for years has been punished by the regime?” continued “Abou Mohammed. At best, Daraa al-Balad used to receive no more than hour or two of power per day.

Now, it has no power and the people have resorted to private generators. Fuel for the generators is bought at hefty prices on the black market. Others have turned to solar power, he revealed.

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Damascus: ‘Pandora’s Box’ Opens for Its People and the World

Damascenes’ vitality quickly returns to the heart of Damascus (Asharq Al-Awsat)
Damascenes’ vitality quickly returns to the heart of Damascus (Asharq Al-Awsat)
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Damascus: ‘Pandora’s Box’ Opens for Its People and the World

Damascenes’ vitality quickly returns to the heart of Damascus (Asharq Al-Awsat)
Damascenes’ vitality quickly returns to the heart of Damascus (Asharq Al-Awsat)

Visitors to Damascus today can’t miss the city’s busy, fast-paced rhythm. Traffic jams clog the main entrances, intersections, and markets, while schoolchildren dart around their parents, backpacks in hand, at the end of the school day. These scenes bring a sense of normalcy, showing that daily life continues despite the challenges.

Cars with license plates from across Syria—Raqqa, Homs, and Idlib—mix with Damascus vehicles at intersections and working traffic lights. “This is new for us,” said a local. “We didn't see cars from these areas before.”

Amid the congestion, as drivers jostled for space, the man joked: “An Idlib plate now means ‘government car’—we’d better make way.”

With traffic police largely absent, a few members of Hayat Tahrir al-Sham have stepped in at key intersections to direct the flow. Still, residents seem to manage on their own, relying on self-organization.

As night fell, parks, cafes, and the bustling Shaalan Street in Damascus filled with families and young people. Crowds moved between juice stands, sandwich shops, and shisha cafes, many with foreign or English-inspired names.

The famed adaptability of locals is evident in small but significant changes. People quickly adjusted to using foreign and Arab currencies, garbage collection resumed swiftly, and even rules for non-Syrians buying SIM cards were amended.

Previously, foreigners had to register with an entry stamp and local address. Now, with Syrian border controls relaxed and monitoring left to the Lebanese side, new measures ensure SIM cards remain traceable without complicating the process.

The “revolution flag” now covers private cars, taxis, and shop entrances in Damascus. Many stores are offering discounts on clothing and shoes to celebrate “victory,” while street vendors eagerly sell the new flag, urging people to buy it with cheers and congratulations.

It’s unclear who genuinely supports the change and who is simply going along to stay safe, especially among small business owners. What is certain, however, is that public spaces have moved on.

From the Lebanese border to the heart of Damascus, slogans praising Assad and the “eternity” he symbolized have been wiped away.

Posters and billboards have appeared across Damascus, especially in Umayyad Square, with messages like “Syria is for all Syrians” and “Time to build a better future.” The slogans call for unity and a shared future for all citizens.

It’s unclear if this is part of an organized campaign by Hayat Tahrir al-Sham or just political improvisation.

Umayyad Square, now a “revolutionary site,” draws crowds day and night, eager to take photos near the historic monument and the abandoned statue of Hafez al-Assad. The scene speaks volumes about untold stories.

Once a key landmark of Damascus, the square is now Syria’s gateway to the world. Syrians from inside and outside the country flood social media with joyful images, while journalists and TV teams from around the globe report in multiple languages.

The atmosphere feels like the opening of “Pandora’s Box,” revealing both the good and the bad.

Journalists in the square, whom you later find in small local restaurants and hotel lobbies, bring to mind post-2003 Baghdad—another capital at a historic turning point, filled with people and emotions.

Like Baghdad, hotel lobbies here are full of contradictions, with journalists playing just a small role.

In these grand spaces, diplomats, UN staff, and translators sit alongside businessmen and contractors eager to capitalize on economic opportunities. While Damascus itself hasn't changed much, its need for basic services, especially electricity, is huge. Entire neighborhoods have been destroyed, with forced displacement, hunger, and fear almost touching the city's hotels and restaurants.

In these hotels, which have become a microcosm of Syrian society, Damascenes are meeting for the first time faction leaders and fighters from the north. Many of them, due to their circumstances, had never seen the capital or entered a hotel.

Their sense of victory is clear, but so is the confusion in their eyes and actions. For example, one might hesitate in an elevator, unsure whether to step out or stay, then greet you politely while avoiding eye contact.

In their military uniforms, with visible weapons and long beards, the fighters stand out in these historic hotels, with their elegant decor and refined staff.

This contrasts sharply with the ordinary Damascenes who visit hotel cafes and restaurants simply for peace and privacy. The fighters bridge the gap with their serious, guarded demeanor, though it softens with a joke from a friend.

Locals feel their “bubble” has burst, and their way of life has changed forever. Yet, most agree that nothing will be worse or last longer than what they’ve already experienced.