Italian Fashion Pioneer Nino Cerruti Dies

Italian designer Nino Cerruti was one of the leading figures in 20th century men's ready-to-wear fashion Ralph GATTI AFP/File
Italian designer Nino Cerruti was one of the leading figures in 20th century men's ready-to-wear fashion Ralph GATTI AFP/File
TT

Italian Fashion Pioneer Nino Cerruti Dies

Italian designer Nino Cerruti was one of the leading figures in 20th century men's ready-to-wear fashion Ralph GATTI AFP/File
Italian designer Nino Cerruti was one of the leading figures in 20th century men's ready-to-wear fashion Ralph GATTI AFP/File

Pioneering Italian fashion designer Nino Cerruti, who introduced "casual chic" into men's fashion and in his heyday dressed Hollywood stars, has died at the age of 91.

He died at the Vercelli hospital in the northwest region of Piedmont, where he had been admitted for a hip operation, the Italian daily Corriere della Sera reported on its website.

"A giant among Italian entrepreneurs has left us," AFP quoted deputy minister for economic development Gilberto Pichetto as saying.

Cerruti, who created the first deconstructed jacket in the 1970s, was one of the leading figures in men's ready-to-wear fashion in the 20th century, with a look that was at once stylish and relaxed.

"I want men more free in their elegance, more elegant in their freedom," he once said.

Tall and slim, Cerruti always insisted on being the first to try on his creations, many of which he kept stored away at the woollen mill his grandfather founded in the northern town of Biella in 1881.

"I have always dressed the same person -- myself," he once said.

- 'Italy's chicest man' -

Born in 1930 in Biella, Cerruti dreamt of becoming a journalist.

But after his father died when he was 20, he was forced to give up his philosophy studies to take over the family textile factory.

In the 1960s, he met Giorgio Armani and hired him as a creator of men's fashion.

The duo made a profound mark on the world of fashion, before Armani branched out with his own fashion house in 1975.

On Saturday, Carlo Capasa, head of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, mourned the passing of "Italy's chicest man".

He called the designer, often seen at his fashion shows in his signature yellow jumper, "a great innovator, a visionary creative and a forerunner of many realities today" in fashion.

"He leaves behind a great legacy: the courage to invest and believe in youth. He was the one who believed in a very young Giorgio Armani."

Armani himself told Corriere della Sera of his great sadness at the news. "Nino had a piercing gaze, a true curiousity, a capacity to dare," he said.

Cerruti opened his first shop in Paris in 1967, launching his luxury brand on the path to global fame.

"Clothes only exist from the moment someone puts them on. I would like these clothes to continue to live, to soak up life," he said.

- 'Philosopher of clothing' -

As French students rose up in revolt in May 1968, he revolutionized fashion by asking male and female models to walk down the catwalk in the same clothes.

"Trousers have given women freedom," he said.

He created his first line of women's clothing in the 1970s, a branch of the business that two decades later would account for a fifth of its revenue.

He then moved into perfumes, watches, shoes and jewelry.

The man nicknamed the "philosopher of clothing" dressed American actors Richard Gere and Robert Redford as well as French star Jean-Paul Belmondo.

He also made cameo appearances in Hollywood films "Cannes Man" (1996) and "Holy Man" (1998).

In the 1990s, his fashion house was asked to be the official designer of the Ferrari Formula 1 team.

Struggling to keep up with the highly competitive world of luxury fashion as an independent business, he sold his label "Cerruti 1881" to Italian investors in 2001. It was then taken over by a US investment fund, and then by the Chinese group Trinity.

After the sale, he returned to the family home in Biella.



M&S Rolls Out Zalando Fulfillment Deal in 22 European Markets

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
TT

M&S Rolls Out Zalando Fulfillment Deal in 22 European Markets

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)

Britain's Marks & Spencer has expanded its partnership with Germany's Zalando, enabling the online fashion retailer to fulfill M&S' direct-to-consumer orders across 22 continental European markets, it said on Tuesday.

M&S said the partnership ‌would help ‌scale its European online ‌business ⁠through faster deliveries ⁠and returns, while reducing logistics costs by up to half.

The partnership was announced in November last year ⁠and successfully trialed in ‌Poland ‌this month.

Partnership now expanded ‌across Europe, including M&S' largest ‌online markets of France, the Netherlands, Germany and Spain.

M&S said it is ‌continuing to see momentum in its international online ⁠business, ⁠driven by growing demand for its fashion offer.

In May, M&S forecast a return to profit growth this year after it slumped 24% in 2025/26, hit by a cyberattack that dented sales and margins.


Shein Grapples with EU Backlash, But Clients Keep Coming

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
TT

Shein Grapples with EU Backlash, But Clients Keep Coming

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo

Shein's meteoric growth has made it a lightning rod for critics of ultrafast fashion in Europe, where officials are trying to rein in its operations in the name of social and environmental responsibility.

The probes, financial penalties and fierce debates have dampened but not fully curbed the enthusiasm of millions of clients in a key market for the China-founded online juggernaut.

The company's $1.7 billion stock market listing, announced on Monday, aims in particular to juice its international expansion, AFP said.

- Short-lived Paris store -

Starting in 2012, Shein began online sales of its continually renewed stock of tops, dresses and other items, drastically undercutting the prices of its rivals -- to say nothing of traditional clothing stores.

Its European customer base rose to 156 million average monthly users by the end of last year, making Shein one of the continent's biggest e-commerce platforms alongside China's AliExpress (193 million users), and Amazon (around 180 million).

In November, the group made waves with its first-ever physical outlet, a dedicated space in the storied BHV department store in Paris.

Hundreds of customers lined up on its opening day, and dozens more people gathered to protest, requiring a heavy police presence to keep the tense situation from getting out of hand.

Demonstrators slammed what they called inhumane working conditions at Shein's suppliers, the environmental costs of selling clothes not made to last, and unfair competition against brick-and-mortar retailers struggling to stay open.

The company says it holds its suppliers to strict compliance standards and does not tolerate forced labor.

- Sex doll scandal -

It did not help that just a few days before the Paris opening, France's consumer protection agency said it had discovered childlike sex dolls for sale on Shein's platform.

Accusing the company of fostering child pornography, French officials asked the European Commission to open an inquiry under the bloc's wide-reaching Digital Services Act.

The EU investigation that opened in February 2026 targeted the sale of illicit goods "including child sexual abuse material" as well as what it alleged was Shein's "addictive design".

In June, French authorities imposed two fines on Shein totaling more than 22 million euros ($25 million), citing problems with product traceability, environmental labelling and delivery times.

The next month it secured an EU-wide halt on the sales of items with crocodile logos -- deemed a counterfeit of France's famed Lacoste brand of polo shirts.

Overall, Shein has paid over 210 million euros in various French fines over the years, and Italy has also imposed fines alleging misleading environmental claims.

In June, the BHV's new owners said they would part ways with Shein, calling the decision to welcome a physical outlet a "strategic error".

- Regulatory pushback -

Shein has called the penalties "disproportionate and discriminatory", while China's commerce ministry says they violate World Trade Organization rules.

That did not stop the European Union from imposing duties on the billions of small, inexpensive retail parcels entering the bloc each year -- most of them from Chinese e-commerce sites.

Since July, a duty of three euros per item applies to packages valued at less than 150 euros, similar to a move last year by US President Donald Trump's administration against products originating in China.

But the EU fee applies to the type of item imported, not the number. So a person buying five T-shirts pays just three euros, but someone buying a T-shirt, jeans and socks would pay nine euros.

Brussels says the duty helps compensate for overwhelmed customs authorities given the popularity of e-commerce, in particular for clothes and other items from China and elsewhere that do not comply with EU standards.

According to the head of the European Parliament's trade committee, Bernd Lange, the number of small parcels from abroad have more than quadrupled to 5.88 billion since 2022.

Starting in November, the EU will impose a still-undetermined handling fee on such parcels.

It is far from clear how effective the duties will be, especially as online giants like Shein could build warehouses in Europe to limit the impact.

After France imposed its own duty of two euros on such parcels this year -- before the EU system kicked in -- the customs office estimated it brought in around 2.3 million euros per month.

That was far below the 33 million euros per month the government had expected in the 2026 budget.


Sources: Shein Aims to IPO on September 1

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
TT

Sources: Shein Aims to IPO on September 1

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo

Shein aims to launch its Hong Kong initial public offering on Monday, according to a source familiar with the matter, and is targeting a listing on September 1, two other sources said, slightly later than previously planned.

While September 1 is the target date, the listing could happen a few days later, one ⁠of the sources ⁠said. Reuters reported last week that Shein had been aiming to list on August 28.

The delay, first reported by the South China Morning Post, comes as slower growth and rising costs have dampened investor appetite for Shein.

The online fast-fashion retailer was ⁠seen just a few years ago as a disruptive challenger to established retailers such as H&M and Zara, thanks to its rapid supply chain and ultra-low prices.

Among cornerstone investors in the IPO is the asset management arm of UBS Group, which would be investing in Shein for the first time, according to a fourth source with direct knowledge of the matter.

A spokesperson for the Swiss bank declined to comment.

Cornerstone investors ⁠agree to ⁠buy a set amount of shares before an IPO, and sign up to a lockup period of six months.

Shein is targeting a valuation of $26 billion to $27 billion, the fourth source said, down sharply from the $100 billion valuation it achieved in a private fundraising in 2022.

The company had previously sought an IPO valuation of $30 billion to $40 billion when investor meetings ahead of the IPO first kicked off.

Shein did not respond to a Reuters request for comment.