Ukrainian Scientists Feel Helpless at Antarctic Base as War Rages

Ukranian scientists at the Vernadsky Antarctic base hold a national flag Oksana SAVENKO Ukrainian Antarctic Akademik Vernadsky Station/AFP
Ukranian scientists at the Vernadsky Antarctic base hold a national flag Oksana SAVENKO Ukrainian Antarctic Akademik Vernadsky Station/AFP
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Ukrainian Scientists Feel Helpless at Antarctic Base as War Rages

Ukranian scientists at the Vernadsky Antarctic base hold a national flag Oksana SAVENKO Ukrainian Antarctic Akademik Vernadsky Station/AFP
Ukranian scientists at the Vernadsky Antarctic base hold a national flag Oksana SAVENKO Ukrainian Antarctic Akademik Vernadsky Station/AFP

For a dozen Ukrainian scientists thousands of kilometers from home at the Vernadsky Antarctic base, the biting cold hurts less than the feeling of helplessness over the war in their homeland.

They spend their days measuring, observing, analyzing and doing their jobs as best they can as a way of coping with the situation, AFP said.

"At the beginning, we didn't sleep for a few days. The whole time we were following news about our home cities," meteorologist Anastasiia Chyhareva, 26, told AFP in messages sent from the base.

Once the invasion was in full swing, the scientists started waking at 2:00 am -- 7:00 am in Ukraine -- to check in on family and see how their night went.

"Now, we're used to it... used to checking news in the morning and before going to bed, in every free minute."

The Ukrainian base is situated on Galindez island, some 1,200 kilometers (745 miles) from Tierra del Fuego in the far south of Argentina.

It is occupied all year round by a dozen people who have to endure temperatures that drop to -20 degrees Celsius (-4 degrees Fahrenheit) in winter.

The scientists' duties include observing meteorological, geophysical, geological and biological conditions, unless the weather forces them to shelter at the base.

"My first impression was like all these things happened in another universe, not our world," said geophysicist Oleksandr Koslokov, whose family lived in war-torn Kharkiv, a heavily targeted city just 40 kilometers from the Russian border.

"I started advising my family on what to do. I had no time to reflect. I had to help my family to survive and to escape from my city... before it became a burning and unpredictable hell.

"My wife heard and felt the explosions of cruise missiles 10 minutes after (Russian President Vladimir) Putin started this stupid and criminal war."

Since then, his family has fled to Germany.

- 'Our part of the war' -
At the base, which is named after a Soviet mineralogist and geochemist with Russian and Ukrainian roots, the scientists try to live as normal a life as possible. Sunday is a day off and Saturday night everyone has dinner together before playing board games and musical instruments.

"It is hard to be so far away from my family and have no possibility to support them," said biologist Artem Dzhulai, 34.

"At the station now, there is a wide range of feelings -- from sadness due to anxiety for relatives and friends, to high spirits, due to pride in our army and the people who are bravely fighting for the right to live in a free country," said marine biologist Oksana Savenko, who is studying humpback whales.

Giving practical advice, moral support, donating to the Ukrainian army, signing a petition, creating online lectures to divert Ukrainian children's attention from the war: the scientists are trying every means available to help in some way.

"It is our part of the war" effort, said Chyhareva.

Ukrainians "try to help each other, they try to help our compatriots, they try to help our army," said another scientist who requested to remain anonymous.

- 'Don't forget us' -
Dzhulai still remains bitter over the West's response the last time Russia invaded Ukraine, annexing Crimea in 2014.

"All democratic countries were indifferent to that act of violence," he said.

"Probably, they hoped that they will not be affected by someone else's grief... but everything can change if evil is not stopped and punished.

"A lot of children in Ukraine died because of the indifference of Europe and the US."

There is fear that the same could happen again.

"Please, don't forget about us after one month, don't be tired of Ukraine and our problems," said Chyhareva.

This team will be replaced later this month, and with their homeland in flames, the departing scientists face an uncertain future.

"I don't have any real plans," said Chychareva, who just hopes to go "back to Ukraine as soon as it will be possible."

"My university in Kharkiv where I studied was destroyed ... my research institute and scientific equipment in Ukraine are destroyed," said Koslokov.

He said he would likely try to continue doing science in Europe or America, adding "time will tell."



Greece's 'Instagram Island' Santorini nears Saturation Point

Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP
Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP
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Greece's 'Instagram Island' Santorini nears Saturation Point

Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP
Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP

One of the most enduring images of Greece's summer travel brand is the world-famous sunset on Santorini Island, framed by sea-blue church domes on a jagged cliff high above a volcanic caldera.
This scene has inspired millions of fridge magnets, posters, and souvenirs -- and now the queue to reach the viewing spot in the clifftop village of Oia can take more than 20 minutes, said AFP.
Santorini is a key stopover of the Greek cruise experience. But with parts of the island nearing saturation, officials are considering restrictions.
Of the record 32.7 million people who visited Greece last year, around 3.4 million, or one in 10, went to the island of just 15,500 residents.
"We need to set limits if we don't want to sink under overtourism," Santorini mayor Nikos Zorzos told AFP.
"There must not be a single extra bed... whether in the large hotels or Airbnb rentals."
As the sun set behind the horizon in Oia, thousands raised their phones to the sky to capture the moment, followed by scattered applause.
For canny entrepreneurs, the Cycladic island's famous sunset can be a cash cow.
One company advertised more than 50 "flying dresses", which have long flowing trains, for up to 370 euros ($401), on posters around Oia for anyone who wishes to "feel like a Greek goddess" or spruce up selfies.
'Respect Oia'
But elsewhere in Oia's narrow streets, residents have put up signs urging visitors to respect their home.
"RESPECT... It's your holiday... but it's our home," read a purple sign from the Save Oia group.
Shaped by a volcanic eruption 3,600 years ago, Santorini's landscape is "unique", the mayor said, and "should not be harmed by new infrastructure".
Around a fifth of the island is currently occupied by buildings.
At the edge of the cliff, a myriad of swimming pools and jacuzzis highlight Santorini is also a pricey destination.
In 2023, 800 cruise ships brought some 1.3 million passengers, according to the Hellenic Ports Association.
Cruise ships "do a lot of harm to the island", said Chantal Metakides, a Belgian resident of Santorini for 26 years.
"When there are eight or nine ships pumping out smoke, you can see the layer of pollution in the caldera," she said.
Cruise ship limits
In June, Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis floated the possibility of capping cruise ship arrivals to Greece's most popular islands.
"I think we'll do it next year," he told Bloomberg, noting that Santorini and tourist magnet Mykonos "are clearly suffering".
"There are people spending a lot of money to be on Santorini and they don’t want the island to be swamped," said the pro-business conservative leader, who was re-elected to a second four-year term last year.
In an AFP interview, Tourism Minister Olga Kefalogianni echoed this sentiment and said: "We must set quotas because it's impossible for an island such as Santorini... to have five cruise ships arriving at the same time."
Local officials have set a limit of 8,000 cruise boat passengers per day from next year.
But not all local operators agree.
Antonis Pagonis, head of Santorini's hoteliers association, believes better visitor flow management is part of the solution.
"It is not possible to have (on) a Monday, for example, 20 to 25,000 guests from the cruise ships, and the next day zero," he said.
Pagonis also argued that most of the congestion only affects parts of the island like the capital, Fira.
In the south of the island, the volcanic sand beaches are less crowded, even though it is high season in July.
'I'm in Türkiye
The modern tourism industry has also changed visitor behavior.
"I listened (to) people making a FaceTime call with the family, saying 'I'm in Türkiye," smiled tourist guide Kostas Sakavaras.
"They think that the church over there is a mosque because yesterday they were in Türkiye."
The veteran guide said the average tourist coming to the island has changed.
"Instagram has defined the way people choose the places to visit," he said, explaining everybody wants the perfect Instagram photo to confirm their expectations.