Met Gala: Kardashian as Monroe, a Gilded Blake Lively

Blake Lively attends The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala celebrating the opening of the "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" exhibition on Monday, May 2, 2022, in New York. (AP)
Blake Lively attends The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala celebrating the opening of the "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" exhibition on Monday, May 2, 2022, in New York. (AP)
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Met Gala: Kardashian as Monroe, a Gilded Blake Lively

Blake Lively attends The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala celebrating the opening of the "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" exhibition on Monday, May 2, 2022, in New York. (AP)
Blake Lively attends The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala celebrating the opening of the "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" exhibition on Monday, May 2, 2022, in New York. (AP)

Kim Kardashian shut down the Met Gala red carpet Monday in one of Marilyn Monroe's most iconic dresses, a gold-beaded body hugger Monroe wore when she sang happy birthday to President John F. Kennedy 60 years ago.

Kardashian had to lose 16 pounds to fit into the dress, designed by Jean Louis and purchased in 2016 by the Ripley's Believe or Not! museum in Orlando, Florida, for a whopping $4.81 million.

"It was such a challenge," she said. "I was determined to fit it."

The dress originally cost $12,000. It was so tight Monroe had to be sewn into it when she purred "Happy birthday, Mr. president" on May 19, 1962, at a Madison Square Garden fundraiser. She died three months later. It has been known as the "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" dress ever since.

Kardashian, with boyfriend Pete Davidson at her side, paired the dress with Cartier white gold drop diamond earrings and a furry white jacket she kept strategically low to cover her backside. Her hair was platinum and pulled tightly into a bun. But she only wore the fragile original dress for her walk up the Grand Staircase at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, changing into a replica after that, according to Vogue.

Earlier, Blake Lively smiled for the cameras in a grand Atelier Versace gown, with husband Ryan Reynolds in brown velvet, Billie Eilish went with an upcycled green lace-trim dress from Gucci and Cynthia Erivo wore sheer white Louis Vuitton with a matching head piece as the Met Gala returned to its berth on the first Monday in May after years of pandemic upheaval.

The celebration of American design was themed to gilded glamour, sprouting classic black tailed tuxedoes for many of the men and lots of dresses in black and white for the women. Others paid literal homage to New York City, home base for the Gilded Age, and still more shimmered in metallic golds and silver.

"Black and white are THE colors for the evening," said Holly Katz, a stylist and host of the Fashion Crimes podcast.

Lively, one of the evening's co-hosts, wore a bronze and rose gold look that transformed into a shimmery layer of baby blue as a large bow was pulled. Her look drew inspiration from the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building and the blue ceiling of Grand Central Station.

"Instead of looking to fashion to influence the dress, I looked to New York City architecture," Lively said.

Cardi B, accompanied by Donatella Versace, was an over-the-top golden goddess in a dress of mesh and chains, a fitting birthday for the designer.

Gigi Hadid was more redefined cat woman than golden girl. She wore a tight-as-skin, blood red Latex catsuit with a corseted bodice and huge, heavy quilted coat from Versace. She walked gingerly up the steps.

Lizzo, meanwhile, got the crowd cheering when she played her gold flute for fans watching the parade of fashion outside. She wore a black dress under a stunning gold-embroidered black coat, all by Thom Browne.

Camila Cabello worked a huge white gown with a midriff top, from Prabal Gurung, while Jordan Roth, the theater producer, provided a reveal of his own, removing a black, egg-like shell to a matching bulbous suit, all by Thom Browne. Janelle Monáe offered a royal wave in a black and white bedazzled helmet piece and slinky gown with head piece.

"Amazing. I’m proud to be American. I’m proud to be wearing Ralph Lauren. This is gilded glamour from the future," Monáe told The Associated Press.

New York Mayor Eric Adams put politics front and center in a tux emblazoned with "End Gun Violence" on the back. Former presidential candidate Hillary Rodham Clinton was in a Bordeaux-colored gown designed by Joseph Altuzarra with the names of historic women sewn into the hem and neckline. They include Abigail Adams, Shirley Chisolm and Madeleine Albright.

Clinton's last Met Gala was a while ago.

"I told Anna I would come every 20 years," she said.

Vogue livestream co-host Vanessa Hudgens made her way up the steps in a vaguely Victorian black sheer lace gown with a long train by Moschino. She was joined by La La Anthony, her fellow Vogue host who wore a deep red look with cut out shoulders from LaQuan Smith.

Anthony said: "Those stairs are intimidating."

And if the Met Gala's return feels like one of those what, already moments, it is.

It's been just under eight months since the last gala, an annual fundraiser that raises eight-figure sums for the Met's Costume Institute. More than $16.4 million was raised last year. The starry event is the institute's primary budget feeder.

This year's gala coincides with the opening of the second part of a two-part exhibit at the Costume Institute focused on American fashion and style. The evening's dress code was gilded glamour and white tie, a la the Gilded Age, that tumultuous period between the Civil War and the turn of the 20th century known for its robber barons, drama and grandeur.

Some of the stars included extra touches. Gabrielle Union said the red jewels in her hair to go with her silver Versace dress represented the blood shed by people of color during the Gilded Age. The dress included a large red flower embellishment at the waist.

Vogue's Anna Wintour, who has run the gala since 1995, wore feathery Chanel and a jeweled tiara that has been in her family since 1910. She continues as one of the night's honorary co-chairs, along with designer Tom Ford and Instagram's Adam Mosseri. The other official co-chairs for 2022 are Regina King and Lin-Manuel Miranda.

Eilish wore a custom Gucci corset look of ivory and duchesse satin with green lace and a padded bustle. Erivo’s look came with a large train as she held hands with Sarah Jessica Parker, who wore custom Christopher John Rogers, a white and black striped Cinderella ballgown with a towering pink and black feather head piece by Philip Treacy.

Parker's dress was inspired by the work of Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley, the first Black female fashion designer in the White House, a confidante of first lady Mary Todd Lincoln.

Alicia Keys’ Ralph Lauren dress was inspired by her native New York City, with a cape evoking the New York City skyline outlined in small hand-placed crystals. Her husband, Swizz Beatz, also a native New Yorker, donned a New York sports jacket.

Twitter’s new owner, Elon Musk, showed up with his mother, Maye Musk a former model adorned in Chopard pearls and other jewels. Her son went with a classic tux with tails.

Ariana DeBose was resplendent in golden Moschino by Jeremy Scott.

"This guy turned me into a fashion Oscar," she said.

And the gala included a marriage proposal. Former state Assembly candidate Bobby Digi Olisa got down on one knee to pop the question to a stunned Laurie Cumbo, the city’s commissioner of cultural affairs.

What's a Met Gala without more than one Kardashian, or six. The entire family showed up, including Kylie Jenner in a white ballgown with a matching hat and big sister Kourtney Kardashian in deconstructed Thom Browne to go with beaux Travis Barker's Thom Browne suit. Kendall Jenner was in black Prada as she played "devil and angel" with Kylie. Sister Khloe Kardashian was in gold Moschino and matriarch Kris Jenner wore canary yellow from Oscar de la Renta, an ode to Jackie Kennedy Onassis - her hair in a ’60s flip.

Megan Thee Stallion was also a golden goddess. Her Moschino shiner had wings at the shoulders. Quannah Chasinghorse wore a beaded blue strapless gown created in partnership with Indigenous designer Lenise Omeasoo.

Sans husband Justin Bieber, Hailey Bieber walked in an elegant Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello slip dress with a feather-trimmed coat in white.

Katy Perry, usually a showstopper as a cheeseburger and other wacky looks over the years, donned understated Oscar de la Renta this time around.

Teyana Taylor wasn't quite on theme but her dramatic Iris Van Herpen gown certainly made a statement, said Claire Sulmers, a fashion writer and pop culture observer who writes The State of Fashion column on Meta's publishing platform Bulletin. It was a breathtaking purple worn with a metal, cage-like piece around her head and face.

"The drama and metallic adornment certainly made her one of the best dressed of the night," Sulmers said.

While many wore European brands, the American vibe remained, said Rachel Tashjian, fashion news director for Harper’s Bazaar.

"Many of the best looks were the most straightforward ones. Kate Moss in a velvet Le Smoking Tuxedo gown, Hailey Bieber in slinky ice-colored silk and marabou feathers, for example. They were both in Saint Laurent, which is of course not an American brand, but the simplicity and directness of their beauty and allure was extraordinarily, well, patriotic," she said.

Todd Snyder, the New York-based designer, appreciated many of the night's interpretations on the white tie dress code.

"Seeing how people pushed beyond the expected interpretation was refreshing this year. I loved Austin Butler in custom Prada swapping the classic bow tie for a silk scarf over a cropped tux jacket. Ryan Reynolds and Rege Jean Page reminded us of the elegance of velvet in a tux. While the era from the outside was opulent, Riz Ahmed’s statement of wearing a workwear inspired outfit to represent the immigrant workers that kept the Gilded Age going is a statement that must not be forgotten."



Designer Berluti Reveals Opening Ceremony Tuxedo for French Athletes

An employee shows the Paris 2024 - Berluti label sewn inside the suit jacket for the French team athletes for the opening ceremony by LVMH's upscale menswear label Berluti, in a showroom at Berluti headquarters in Paris, France, April 10, 2024.  REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq
An employee shows the Paris 2024 - Berluti label sewn inside the suit jacket for the French team athletes for the opening ceremony by LVMH's upscale menswear label Berluti, in a showroom at Berluti headquarters in Paris, France, April 10, 2024. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq
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Designer Berluti Reveals Opening Ceremony Tuxedo for French Athletes

An employee shows the Paris 2024 - Berluti label sewn inside the suit jacket for the French team athletes for the opening ceremony by LVMH's upscale menswear label Berluti, in a showroom at Berluti headquarters in Paris, France, April 10, 2024.  REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq
An employee shows the Paris 2024 - Berluti label sewn inside the suit jacket for the French team athletes for the opening ceremony by LVMH's upscale menswear label Berluti, in a showroom at Berluti headquarters in Paris, France, April 10, 2024. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq

LVMH-owned menswear brand Berluti unveiled navy wool suits with colored silk lapels for France's Olympic athletes' opening ceremony outfits on Tuesday.
LVMH, a sponsor of the Paris 2024 games, said the "tuxedo-inspired outfit" reflected Berluti's identity, using "noble materials and patina effects" for an elegant, French look.
The jacket lapels have a red and blue motif inspired by the French flag and the brand's signature color-infused patina leather shoes. The women's jackets have cut-away sleeves.
Berluti was founded in Paris in 1895 by a young Italian shoemaker. The French athletes will also wear Berluti trainers or leather loafers.


Adidas Surges as Strong Momentum Helps Q1 Beat, Triggers Outlook Hike 

08 March 2022, Bavaria, Herzogenaurach: The logo of the sporting goods manufacturer Adidas on a blue jacket. (dpa)
08 March 2022, Bavaria, Herzogenaurach: The logo of the sporting goods manufacturer Adidas on a blue jacket. (dpa)
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Adidas Surges as Strong Momentum Helps Q1 Beat, Triggers Outlook Hike 

08 March 2022, Bavaria, Herzogenaurach: The logo of the sporting goods manufacturer Adidas on a blue jacket. (dpa)
08 March 2022, Bavaria, Herzogenaurach: The logo of the sporting goods manufacturer Adidas on a blue jacket. (dpa)

Shares in Adidas rose more than 7% on Wednesday, hitting their highest level in over two years after the German sportswear giant on Tuesday reported better-than-expected quarterly results and raised its 2024 guidance on stronger momentum.

Growth is being driven by strong demand momentum in "terrace" retro styles, such as Samba, Gazelle and Campus, as well as strength in performance categories, analysts at Wedbush said.

Analyst Cedric Lecasble at Stifel also highlighted that the raise in 2024 guidance "had little to do with Yeezy mechanics, but was much more driven by Adidas brand building materializing at full speed."

Adidas has been undergoing a turnaround after in October 2022 it cut ties with rapper West, who goes by Ye, suspending sales of the highly profitable Yeezy sneaker line.

It later resumed sales of Yeezy products under the lead of CEO Bjorn Gulden, in the job since the start of 2023, to clear remaining stock while seeking to boost its popular retro styles.

Lecasble described revenue performance in the first quarter as "impressive" in the context of challenging market conditions.

Analysts however view Adidas' guidance for operating profit (EBIT) of 700 million euros as still conservative.

Given that consensus already estimates the figure at around 890 million euros for 2024, RBC analyst Piral Dadhania pointed out, "the market clearly does not believe the EBIT guide, which to us appears to be unrealistic, and overly conservative."

Adidas delivered a quarterly EBIT of 336 million euros.

The company said it sold another 150 million euros worth of Yeezy products in the past quarter, for an operating profit of around 50 million euros. It, however, expects no further profit contribution from the remainder of Yeezy inventory, which it anticipated to sell for about 200 million euros later this year.

Shares were up 6% by 09:49 GMT, topping pan-European STOXX 600 index.


UK's ASOS Sinks to First-half Loss

A model presents the latest creations from the Dior pre-fall 2024 women’s collection at the Brooklyn Museum in New York City, New York, US, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs
A model presents the latest creations from the Dior pre-fall 2024 women’s collection at the Brooklyn Museum in New York City, New York, US, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs
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UK's ASOS Sinks to First-half Loss

A model presents the latest creations from the Dior pre-fall 2024 women’s collection at the Brooklyn Museum in New York City, New York, US, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs
A model presents the latest creations from the Dior pre-fall 2024 women’s collection at the Brooklyn Museum in New York City, New York, US, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs

British online fashion retailer ASOS sunk to a first-half loss, as it battles competition from Chinese giant Shein and self-inflicted problems from excess stock, but it said it still expected an improvement over the year.
ASOS also named former Sainsburys and Amazon executive Dave Murray as its new chief financial officer on Wednesday, saying that his retail and e-commerce experience would help return the group to profitability, Reuters reported.
The company has struggled to grow since the pandemic and has cast its current financial year as a transition period, when it will speed up new collection launches and shed a build up of excess stock which has dragged on profits.
For the 26 weeks to March 3, ASOS posted an adjusted EBITDA loss of 16.3 million pounds ($20.3 million), compared to the 4.6 million pounds it made in the period last year.
Over the full-year period, it is sticking to a forecast for positive adjusted EBITDA on sales that are expected to be 5 to 15% lower.
"ASOS is becoming a faster and more agile business, and we are reiterating our guidance for the full year as we lay the foundations for sustainably profitable growth in full-year 2025 and beyond," CEO José Antonio Ramos Calamonte said.
ASOS is facing growing competition from fast-fashion giant Shein, which is expanding rapidly in Europe, offering low prices and benefiting from its speedy response to changing trends.


Dr. Martens Dour US Revenue Outlook for the Year Sends Stock of Iconic Bootmaker Plunging

A Dr. Martens boot inspired by Elton John's famous Pinball Wizard outfit is shown at a promotional event in London, March 20, 2023. (AP)
A Dr. Martens boot inspired by Elton John's famous Pinball Wizard outfit is shown at a promotional event in London, March 20, 2023. (AP)
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Dr. Martens Dour US Revenue Outlook for the Year Sends Stock of Iconic Bootmaker Plunging

A Dr. Martens boot inspired by Elton John's famous Pinball Wizard outfit is shown at a promotional event in London, March 20, 2023. (AP)
A Dr. Martens boot inspired by Elton John's famous Pinball Wizard outfit is shown at a promotional event in London, March 20, 2023. (AP)

Chunky bootmaker Dr. Martens is warning of a tough year ahead.

Dr. Martens shares plunged more than 30% Tuesday after the iconic British brand forecast wholesale revenue in the US, its largest market, would decline by double-digits compared with last year.

Trading in Dr. Martens stock was temporarily halted on the London Stock Exchange early Tuesday as it sank to a record-low 0.64 pounds, according to FactSet.

That could translate into a sizeable hit to profits, with the company pointing to a base projected impact of 20 million pounds ($24.9 million) on pretax earnings year-over-year. In-season orders from wholesale customers could help ease US revenue expectations, the company noted, but those are difficult to predict.

Beyond weakening revenue, Dr. Martens anticipates other hefty expenses related to the company's employee retention plans as well as single-digit inflation in its cost base. Unlike years past, the brand does not plan to increase prices to offset those costs.

Dr. Martens also announced a leadership shakeup on Tuesday. After six years at the helm of the company, CEO Kenny Wilson will step down. Ije Nwokorie, Dr. Martens’ chief brand officer, will take his place before the end of the current fiscal year.

In a prepared statement regarding 2025's financial outlook, Wilson acknowledged the challenges ahead, saying that Dr. Martens is focused on its plans to "reignite boots demand, particularly in the USA.”

Still, Wilson said that the brand “remains strong.” Dr. Martens said it saw a pick-up in direct to consumer growth during the fourth quarter.

Shares for Dr. Marten are down more than 56% over the last 12 months, per FactSet.


LVMH's First Quarter Sales Growth Slips to 3% on Luxury Slowdown

A logo of Louis Vuitton is displayed on a Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, March 30, 2024. (Reuters)
A logo of Louis Vuitton is displayed on a Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, March 30, 2024. (Reuters)
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LVMH's First Quarter Sales Growth Slips to 3% on Luxury Slowdown

A logo of Louis Vuitton is displayed on a Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, March 30, 2024. (Reuters)
A logo of Louis Vuitton is displayed on a Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, March 30, 2024. (Reuters)

LVMH reported a 3% rise in first quarter sales on Tuesday, marking a slowdown as rising prices prompted more shoppers who aspire to own its handbags and other luxury goods to hold back on splashing out thousands of dollars.

The slower quarterly sales growth reflected comparisons with the same period in 2023, when sales were boosted by the lifting of COVID-19 curbs in LVMH's key market of mainland China and comes amid worries about a prolonged global slowdown which has knocked luxury companies' shares over the past year.

The world's largest luxury group, owner of Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co. and Bulgari, said sales for the quarter ending in March were up 3% year-on-year on an organic basis to 20.69 billion euros ($22 billion), matching analyst expectations.

LVMH, which is Europe's second-largest listed company and worth nearly 400 billion euros, is the first luxury goods maker to report quarterly earnings, setting the tone as worries grow about demand in China, the world's No. 2 economy.

Gucci-owner Kering last month issued a surprise warning that first quarter sales would slump 10%, with sharp declines in Asia, casting uncertainty for the sector's outlook.

Sales at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division, which includes Louis Vuitton and Dior, climbed 2%, also matching expectations.

Sales in the division, which sells small Lady Dior handbags priced at 5,400 euros and roomy Louis Vuitton Speedy bags for 10,000 euros, had risen by 9% year-on-year the previous quarter.

Chief Financial Officer Jean-Jacques Guiony told journalists that LVMH was "quite happy" with demand from Chinese shoppers.

He said purchases of Louis Vuitton products by Chinese buyers globally grew by around 10%, with an increasing proportion taking place outside mainland China as they resume travelling, particularly in Japan and to some extent in Europe.

LVMH, a conglomerate spanning spirits, jewellery, cosmetics and fashion which is regarded as a bellwether for the wider luxury goods industry, does not give a breakdown for its brands.


AI-Generated Fashion Models Could Bring More Diversity to the Industry - Or Leave It with Less

A model presents a creation by Gefferson Vila Nova during the Sao Paulo Fashion Week 2024 (SPFW) at the Iguatemi shopping mall in Sao Paulo, Brazil, 13 April 2024. SPFW continues through 14 April with a total of 27 shows. (EPA)
A model presents a creation by Gefferson Vila Nova during the Sao Paulo Fashion Week 2024 (SPFW) at the Iguatemi shopping mall in Sao Paulo, Brazil, 13 April 2024. SPFW continues through 14 April with a total of 27 shows. (EPA)
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AI-Generated Fashion Models Could Bring More Diversity to the Industry - Or Leave It with Less

A model presents a creation by Gefferson Vila Nova during the Sao Paulo Fashion Week 2024 (SPFW) at the Iguatemi shopping mall in Sao Paulo, Brazil, 13 April 2024. SPFW continues through 14 April with a total of 27 shows. (EPA)
A model presents a creation by Gefferson Vila Nova during the Sao Paulo Fashion Week 2024 (SPFW) at the Iguatemi shopping mall in Sao Paulo, Brazil, 13 April 2024. SPFW continues through 14 April with a total of 27 shows. (EPA)

London-based model Alexsandrah has a twin, but not in the way you’d expect: Her counterpart is made of pixels instead of flesh and blood.

The virtual twin was generated by artificial intelligence and has already appeared as a stand-in for the real-life Alexsandrah in a photo shoot. Alexsandrah, who goes by her first name professionally, in turn receives credit and compensation whenever the AI version of herself gets used — just like a human model.

Alexsandrah says she and her alter-ego mirror each other “even down to the baby hairs.” And it is yet another example of how AI is transforming creative industries — and the way humans may or may not be compensated.

Proponents say the growing use of AI in fashion modeling showcases diversity in all shapes and sizes, allowing consumers to make more tailored purchase decisions that in turn reduces fashion waste from product returns. And digital modeling saves money for companies and creates opportunities for people who want to work with the technology.

But critics raise concerns that digital models may push human models — and other professionals like makeup artists and photographers — out of a job. Unsuspecting consumers could also be fooled into thinking AI models are real, and companies could claim credit for fulfilling diversity commitments without employing actual humans.

“Fashion is exclusive, with limited opportunities for people of color to break in,” said Sara Ziff, a former fashion model and founder of the Model Alliance, a nonprofit aiming to advance workers’ rights in the fashion industry. “I think the use of AI to distort racial representation and marginalize actual models of color reveals this troubling gap between the industry’s declared intentions and their real actions.”

Women of color in particular have long faced higher barriers to entry in modeling and AI could upend some of the gains they've made. Data suggests that women are more likely to work in occupations in which the technology could be applied, and are more at risk of displacement than men.

In March 2023, iconic denim brand Levi Strauss & Co. announced that it would be testing AI-generated models produced by Amsterdam-based company Lalaland.ai to add a wider range of body types and underrepresented demographics on its website. But after receiving widespread backlash, Levi clarified that it was not pulling back on its plans for live photo shoots, the use of live models or its commitment to working with diverse models.

“We do not see this (AI) pilot as a means to advance diversity or as a substitute for the real action that must be taken to deliver on our diversity, equity and inclusion goals and it should not have been portrayed as such,” Levi said in its statement at the time.

The company last month said that it has no plans to scale the AI program.

The Associated Press reached out to several other retailers to ask whether they use AI fashion models. Target, Kohl’s and fast-fashion giant Shein declined to comment; Temu did not respond to a request for comment.

Meanwhile, spokespeople for Nieman Marcus, H&M, Walmart and Macy's said their respective companies do not use AI models, although Walmart clarified that “suppliers may have a different approach to photography they provide for their products but we don’t have that information.”

Nonetheless, companies that generate AI models are finding a demand for the technology, including Lalaland.ai, which was co-founded by Michael Musandu after he was feeling frustrated by the absence of clothing models who looked like him.

“One model does not represent everyone that’s actually shopping and buying a product,” he said. “As a person of color, I felt this painfully myself.”

Musandu says his product is meant to supplement traditional photo shoots, not replace them. Instead of seeing one model, shoppers could see nine to 12 models using different size filters, which would enrich their shopping experience and help reduce product returns and fashion waste.

The technology is actually creating new jobs, since Lalaland.ai pays humans to train its algorithms, Musandu said.

And if brands “are serious about inclusion efforts, they will continue to hire these models of color,” he added.

London-based model Alexsandrah, who is Black, says her digital counterpart has helped her distinguish herself in the fashion industry. In fact, the real-life Alexsandrah has even stood in for a Black computer-generated model named Shudu, created by Cameron Wilson, a former fashion photographer turned CEO of The Diigitals, a UK-based digital modeling agency.

Wilson, who is white, designed Shudu in 2017, described on Instagram as the “The World’s First Digital Supermodel.” But critics at the time accused Wilson of cultural appropriation and digital Blackface.

Wilson took the experience as a lesson and transformed The Diigitals to make sure Shudu — who has been booked by Louis Vuitton and BMW — didn’t take away opportunities but instead opened possibilities for women of color. Alexsandrah, for instance, has modeled in-person as Shudu for Vogue Australia, and writer Ama Badu came up with Shudu’s backstory and portrays her voice for interviews.

Alexsandrah said she is “extremely proud” of her work with The Diigitals, which created her own AI twin: “It’s something that even when we are no longer here, the future generations can look back at and be like, ‘These are the pioneers.’”

But for Yve Edmond, a New York City area-based model who works with major retailers to check the fit of clothing before it's sold to consumers, the rise of AI in fashion modeling feels more insidious.

Edmond worries modeling agencies and companies are taking advantage of models, who are generally independent contractors afforded few labor protections in the US, by using their photos to train AI systems without their consent or compensation.

She described one incident in which a client asked to photograph Edmond moving her arms, squatting and walking for “research" purposes. Edmond refused and later felt swindled — her modeling agency had told her she was being booked for a fitting, not to build an avatar.

“This is a complete violation,” she said. “It was really disappointing for me.”

But absent AI regulations, it’s up to companies to be transparent and ethical about deploying AI technology. And Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, likens the current lack of legal protections for fashion workers to “the Wild West.”

That's why the Model Alliance is pushing for legislation like the one being considered in New York state, in which a provision of the Fashion Workers Act would require management companies and brands to obtain models’ clear written consent to create or use a model’s digital replica; specify the amount and duration of compensation, and prohibit altering or manipulating models’ digital replica without consent.

Alexsandrah says that with ethical use and the right legal regulations, AI might open up doors for more models of color like herself. She has let her clients know that she has an AI replica, and she funnels any inquires for its use through Wilson, who she describes as "somebody that I know, love, trust and is my friend.” Wilson says they make sure any compensation for Alexsandrah's AI is comparable to what she would make in-person.

Edmond, however, is more of a purist: “We have this amazing Earth that we’re living on. And you have a person of every shade, every height, every size. Why not find that person and compensate that person?”


Italian Fashion Designer Roberto Cavalli Dies Aged 83

FILE PHOTO: Italian designer Roberto Cavalli acknowledges applause on the catwalk with US model Cindy Crawford at the end of his Autumn/Winter 2002/03 collection at Milan fashion week March 4, 2002. REUTERS/Paolo Cocco/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Italian designer Roberto Cavalli acknowledges applause on the catwalk with US model Cindy Crawford at the end of his Autumn/Winter 2002/03 collection at Milan fashion week March 4, 2002. REUTERS/Paolo Cocco/File Photo
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Italian Fashion Designer Roberto Cavalli Dies Aged 83

FILE PHOTO: Italian designer Roberto Cavalli acknowledges applause on the catwalk with US model Cindy Crawford at the end of his Autumn/Winter 2002/03 collection at Milan fashion week March 4, 2002. REUTERS/Paolo Cocco/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Italian designer Roberto Cavalli acknowledges applause on the catwalk with US model Cindy Crawford at the end of his Autumn/Winter 2002/03 collection at Milan fashion week March 4, 2002. REUTERS/Paolo Cocco/File Photo

Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, known for his animal-print designs loved by showbusiness stars, has died at the age of 83, his company said.
Cavalli, who founded his label in the early 1970s, had been ill for some time. He is survived by his six children and his partner Sandra Bergman Nilsson.
"The Roberto Cavalli company shares condolences with Mr. Cavalli's family, his legacy remains a constant source of inspiration," Sergio Azzolari, chief executive of Roberto Cavalli, said in a post on Instagram.
The designer died on Friday at his home in Florence, Italian news agency ANSA reported.
Cavalli, who used bright colors and patchwork effects in his often revealing creations, was an extroverted art lover who wore tinted glasses and smoked a cigar, Reuters reported.
He expanded into real estate and often spent evenings in his popular "Just Cavalli Cafe," a nightclub in central Milan.
Giorgio Armani said he always had "enormous respect" for Cavalli even though his vision of fashion could not have been more different.
"Roberto was a true artist, wild and wonderful in his use of prints, capable of transforming fantasy into seductive clothes," he posted on social media platform X.
A popular image of US model Cindy Crawford in July 2000 shows her descending Rome's Spanish steps in a Cavalli-designed long slip dress depicting a tiger face.
"You will be missed and you are loved by so many that your name will continue on, a beacon of inspiration for others, and especially for me," said Roberto Cavalli's creative director Fausto Puglisi.


Nike Bosses Plan ‘Biggest’ Olympics Spend as Marketing Ramps Up

 This photograph shows a Air Zoom sneaker during a Nike event, in Paris, on April 11, 2024. (AFP)
This photograph shows a Air Zoom sneaker during a Nike event, in Paris, on April 11, 2024. (AFP)
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Nike Bosses Plan ‘Biggest’ Olympics Spend as Marketing Ramps Up

 This photograph shows a Air Zoom sneaker during a Nike event, in Paris, on April 11, 2024. (AFP)
This photograph shows a Air Zoom sneaker during a Nike event, in Paris, on April 11, 2024. (AFP)

Nike is spending more on this Olympics than any previous Games, top executives said on Friday, as the US sportswear brand embarks on a marketing push it hopes will revive flagging sales and help compete with upstart rivals.

Sportswear makers are looking to reignite demand on the back of Paris 2024, which represents a return to normalcy after Tokyo 2020, delayed to 2021 and held without spectators due to the global pandemic.

Sponsored athletes including US sprinter Sha'Carri Richardson and Kenyan marathoner Eliud Kipchoge modeled Nike's Olympics kits at a show in Paris on Thursday, where the brand also unveiled 13 futuristic shoe prototypes developed with athletes.

"This Olympics will be our biggest ... it will be our largest media spend," Heidi O'Neill, president of consumer, product and brand at Nike said in an interview. "This will be the most investment and the biggest moment for Nike in years," she added, without putting a figure on the amount of spending planned.

In Nike's latest quarter, total marketing expense was $1 billion, up 10% on the same period last year. Asked whether spending will continue to ramp up, O'Neill said marketing was "the number one priority investment" for the company.

Nike in general is focusing on "fewer, bigger" marketing campaigns, she added. The $139 billion company hired a new chief marketing officer at the end of last year as it seeks to bolster its brand in an increasingly competitive sportswear market.

Newer running brands such as On and Hoka are taking market share from Nike, while a trend away from chunky basketball sneakers is benefiting its closest rival Adidas and its low-profile "terrace" shoes.

Nike's plans contrast with those of Adidas. The German brand has been cutting back on marketing spend and spent 2.5 billion euros ($2.7 billion) on marketing in 2023, down 8.5% from the previous year. Nike's spend over its latest four quarters was $4.3 billion, an increase of 6%.

Nike's investment should help stimulate demand despite pressure on consumers globally, executives say.

"Consumers are challenged in just about every market we do business in," said Craig Williams, Nike's president of global geographies and marketplace.

Despite that, consumers continue to respond "very positively" to the Olympics as an event, Williams said, adding it is still seen as "the epitome of sport".


Louis Vuitton Hires Advertising Chief to Run Communications

The logo of luxury brand Louis Vuitton is seen in New York City, on April 10, 2024. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU / AFP)
The logo of luxury brand Louis Vuitton is seen in New York City, on April 10, 2024. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU / AFP)
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Louis Vuitton Hires Advertising Chief to Run Communications

The logo of luxury brand Louis Vuitton is seen in New York City, on April 10, 2024. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU / AFP)
The logo of luxury brand Louis Vuitton is seen in New York City, on April 10, 2024. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU / AFP)

Louis Vuitton said on Thursday it had recruited Blake Harrop to be its next communications chief, replacing industry veteran Stefano Cantino, who was named deputy chief executive officer of Kering-owned Gucci earlier in the day.
Harrop's appointment to be Executive Vice President, Image and Communications at the LVMH-owned label, the world's biggest fashion brand, was first reported by publication WWD.
Harrop and Cantino's new jobs underline how central communications and marketing have become for high-end fashion labels at a time of rapid global growth.
Harrop is a high-profile, international advertising executive from outside the fashion trade - a rarity in the business - while Cantino worked for two decades at Prada before Vuitton.
Harrop, president of advertising agency Wieden + Kennedy since 2022, has extensive international experience, leading the US agency in China, Japan and the Europe, Middle East and Africa region, and running business with Nike in Japan, South Korea, the Middle East and Europe.
As part of his new job, Harrop will contribute to new campaigns aimed at elevating Vuitton's image, the brand's Chief Executive Pietro Beccari said in a statement to Reuters.
"I am confident of his capacity to inspire passion and collectiveness," Beccari said.
Louis Vuitton has become increasingly involved in sport, producing trunks specially designed to hold the medals in the upcoming Paris Olympics.


Zara Owner Inditex Demands Clarity from Cotton Certifier Accused of Standard Breaches

 Shoppers visit a Zara store in a shopping mall the day of its reopening after being closed for more than two years due to Russian full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022 in Kyiv, Ukraine April 3, 2024. (Reuters)
Shoppers visit a Zara store in a shopping mall the day of its reopening after being closed for more than two years due to Russian full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022 in Kyiv, Ukraine April 3, 2024. (Reuters)
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Zara Owner Inditex Demands Clarity from Cotton Certifier Accused of Standard Breaches

 Shoppers visit a Zara store in a shopping mall the day of its reopening after being closed for more than two years due to Russian full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022 in Kyiv, Ukraine April 3, 2024. (Reuters)
Shoppers visit a Zara store in a shopping mall the day of its reopening after being closed for more than two years due to Russian full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022 in Kyiv, Ukraine April 3, 2024. (Reuters)

Zara owner Inditex demanded more transparency from a certifier that vets some of the cotton used by the Spanish fashion giant following an investigation that found evidence of malpractice by two Brazilian certified cotton producers.

Inditex sent a letter dated April 8 to Better Cotton CEO Alan McClay asking for clarity on the certification process and progress on traceability practices after the NGO Earthsight informed the retailer that producers with Better Cotton certifications were involved in land grabbing, illegal deforestation and violent acts against local communities, according to a copy of the letter seen by Reuters.

Inditex said it had waited more than six months for the results of an internal investigation by Better Cotton that was promised for the end of March and began in August 2023, according to the letter.

The allegations "represent a serious breach in the trust placed in Better Cotton's certification process by both our group and our product suppliers," Inditex said in the letter. "The trust that we place in such processes developed by independent organizations, such as yours, is key to our supply chain control strategy."

The contents of the letter was first published by Modaes, a fashion business news site. Inditex confirmed to Reuters it had sent the letter.

Inditex does not purchase cotton directly but its providers are audited by certifiers such as Better Cotton to ensure good practices when obtaining their raw materials.

Geneva-based Better Cotton, one of the world's largest certifiers of sustainable practices in the cotton industry, did not respond to a request for comment on Wednesday.

It said in an April 4 statement that it had concluded a third party audit of three farms implicated by Earthsight but that it would not publish its findings until it had seen the full report, which was due to be published on Thursday.

Better Cotton said its strategic partner in Brazil, the Brazilian Association of Cotton Producers, was revising elements of its standards to align with those of Better Cotton.

Created by companies and several nonprofits including the World Wildlife Fund, Better Cotton says it aims to support improved practices in areas like water and soil stewardship and to promote better working standards.

Fashion retailers face increasing pressures from consumers and activist groups to sell products with less environmental impact and made in safe labor conditions.