Genes Control Food Preferences, New Study Suggests

A fishmonger works at a small market, amid the outbreak of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), in Buckingham, Britain, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Andrew Boyers/File Photo
A fishmonger works at a small market, amid the outbreak of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), in Buckingham, Britain, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Andrew Boyers/File Photo
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Genes Control Food Preferences, New Study Suggests

A fishmonger works at a small market, amid the outbreak of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), in Buckingham, Britain, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Andrew Boyers/File Photo
A fishmonger works at a small market, amid the outbreak of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), in Buckingham, Britain, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Andrew Boyers/File Photo

The reasons why people love certain foods and turn their noses up at others, has to do with more than their cultures or even their taste buds… their genes play a significant role too, a new study conducted by scientists from the University of Edinburgh and Milan’s Human Technopole reveals.

Researchers have identified hundreds of genetic variants – differences in peoples’ genetic make-up – linked with their liking for specific foods, including ones associated with a love of aniseed, avocados, chilies, steak, oily fish and many more.

In the largest genetic study of food liking, researchers studied more than 150,000 individuals’ fondness for 137 different foods and beverages. They found 401 genetic variants that influenced which foods participants liked. Many of these variants affected more than one food-liking trait and some only one particular food. For example, some genetic variants were linked with an enjoyment for only salmon, while other groups of variants increased a liking for oily fish or all fish in general. The findings were published in the journal Nature Communication on August 17.

The team used questionnaires and genetic analysis to develop a so-called ‘food map’ – showing how participants’ appreciation of groups of food and specific flavors are influenced by similar genetic variants.

The map reveals three main clusters of foods that share a similar genetic component. One group is made up of high-calorie and highly palatable foods such as meat, dairy and desserts; another group consists of strong-tasting foods that are known as ‘acquired’, including alcohol and pungent vegetables; and a third group contains low-calorie foods such as fruit and vegetables.

Researchers discovered that the three food groups also shared genes known to be associated with distinct health traits. For example, the highly palatable foods are influenced by the same genetic variants also linked with obesity and lower levels of physical activity. A higher liking for fruit and vegetables is influenced by the same variants that are related to higher levels of physical activity.

However, the team was surprised to find genetic differences between liking subsets of foods within the same category. For example, they expected that genetic variants relating to liking vegetables would be consistent across all types of vegetables, meaning that people who liked one vegetable would like them all.

Instead, they found a weak relationship between the genes associated with cooked and salad vegetables and the genes linked with stronger tasting vegetables such as spinach and asparagus.



Tunisia Women Herb Harvesters Struggle with Drought and Heat

A woman harvests aromatic and medicinal plants in the mountains of Tbainia village near the city of Ain Drahem, in the northwest of Tunisia on November 6, 2024. (AFP)
A woman harvests aromatic and medicinal plants in the mountains of Tbainia village near the city of Ain Drahem, in the northwest of Tunisia on November 6, 2024. (AFP)
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Tunisia Women Herb Harvesters Struggle with Drought and Heat

A woman harvests aromatic and medicinal plants in the mountains of Tbainia village near the city of Ain Drahem, in the northwest of Tunisia on November 6, 2024. (AFP)
A woman harvests aromatic and medicinal plants in the mountains of Tbainia village near the city of Ain Drahem, in the northwest of Tunisia on November 6, 2024. (AFP)

On a hillside in Tunisia's northwestern highlands, women scour a sun-scorched field for the wild herbs they rely on for their livelihoods, but droughts and rising temperatures are making it ever harder to find the precious plants.

Yet the harvesters say they have little choice but to struggle on, as there are few opportunities in a country hit hard by unemployment, inflation and high living costs.

"There is a huge difference between the situation in the past and what we are living now," said Mabrouka Athimni, who heads a local collective of women herb harvesters named "Al Baraka" ("Blessing").

"We're earning half, sometimes just a third, of what we used to."

Tunisia produces around 10,000 tons of aromatic and medicinal herbs each year, according to official figures.

Rosemary accounts for more than 40 percent of essential oil exports, mainly destined for French and American markets.

For the past 20 years, Athimni's collective has supported numerous families in Tbainia, a village near the city of Ain Draham in a region with much higher poverty rates than the national average.

Women, who make up around 70 percent of the agricultural workforce, are the main breadwinners for their households in Tbainia.

- 'Yield less' -

Tunisia is in its sixth year of drought and has seen its water reserves dwindle, as temperatures have soared past 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit) in some areas during the summer.

The country has 36 dams, mostly in the northwest, but they are currently just 20 percent full -- a record low in recent decades.

The Tbainia women said they usually harvested plants like eucalyptus, rosemary and mastic year-round, but shrinking water resources and rare rainfall have siphoned oil output.

"The mountain springs are drying up, and without snow or rain to replenish them, the herbs yield less oil," said Athimni.

Mongia Soudani, a 58-year-old harvester and mother of three, said her work was her household's only income. She joined the collective five years ago.

"We used to gather three or four large sacks of herbs per harvest," she said. "Now, we're lucky to fill just one."

Forests in Tunisia cover 1.25 million hectares, about 10 percent of them in the northwestern region.

Wildfires fueled by drought and rising temperatures have ravaged these woodlands, further diminishing the natural resources that women like Soudani depend on.

In the summer of last year, wildfires destroyed around 1,120 hectares near Tbainia.

"Parts of the mountain were consumed by flames, and other women lost everything," Soudani recalled.

To adapt to some climate-driven challenges, the women received training from international organizations, such as the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), to preserve forest resources.

Still, Athimni struggles to secure a viable income.

"I can't fulfil my clients' orders anymore because the harvest has been insufficient," she said.

The collective has lost a number of its customers as a result, she said.

- 'No longer sustainable' -

A recent study by the Tunisian Forum for Economic and Social Rights (FTDES) highlighted how climate-induced damage to forests had severely impacted local communities.

"Women in particular suffer the consequences as their activities become more difficult and arduous," the study said.

Tunisia has ratified key international environmental agreements, including the 2015 Paris Climate Accord.

But environmental justice researcher Ines Labiadh, who oversaw the FTDES study, said implementation "remains incomplete".

In the face of these woes, the Tbainia harvesters, like many women working in the sector, will be forced to seek alternative livelihoods, said Labiadh.

"They have no choice but to diversify their activities," she said. "Relying solely on natural resources is no longer sustainable."

Back in the field, Bachra Ben Salah strives to collect whatever herbs she can lay her hands on.

"There's nothing we can do but wait for God's mercy," she said.