Largest Ever Exhibition of Vermeer Paintings to Open in Amsterdam

A journalist takes images of Girl with a Pearl Earring during a press preview of the Vermeer exhibit at Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum, Monday, Feb. 6, 2023, which unveils its blockbuster exhibition of 28 paintings by 17th-century Dutch master Johannes Vermeer drawn from galleries around the world. (AP)
A journalist takes images of Girl with a Pearl Earring during a press preview of the Vermeer exhibit at Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum, Monday, Feb. 6, 2023, which unveils its blockbuster exhibition of 28 paintings by 17th-century Dutch master Johannes Vermeer drawn from galleries around the world. (AP)
TT

Largest Ever Exhibition of Vermeer Paintings to Open in Amsterdam

A journalist takes images of Girl with a Pearl Earring during a press preview of the Vermeer exhibit at Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum, Monday, Feb. 6, 2023, which unveils its blockbuster exhibition of 28 paintings by 17th-century Dutch master Johannes Vermeer drawn from galleries around the world. (AP)
A journalist takes images of Girl with a Pearl Earring during a press preview of the Vermeer exhibit at Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum, Monday, Feb. 6, 2023, which unveils its blockbuster exhibition of 28 paintings by 17th-century Dutch master Johannes Vermeer drawn from galleries around the world. (AP)

Twenty-eight paintings by Johannes Vermeer go on display at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam this week, the largest ever exhibition of works of the 17th-century Dutch master, known for his expertise at rendering light and intimate household scenes.

The show gathers half the works that Vermeer, who died aged 43 and worked slowly, is thought ever to have painted and three-quarters of those that still exist. He likely never saw so many of his own works together at one time.

Rijksmuseum director Taco Dibbits said Vermeer was a man who lived with a large family and had a busy life as an art dealer, but still managed to obsessively refine works of quiet beauty, bathed in light rendered with almost photographic accuracy.

"It's this ... complete focus and tranquility in his paintings that we still love today," Dibbits said.

Alongside famed works like "Girl With A Pearl Earring" (1664) and "The Milkmaid" (1659), the exhibit features Vermeer's two known outdoor paintings, several large canvases, and a string of his portrayals of women -- including playing instruments, reading and working.

"What's quite striking when you look at Vermeer is that in his paintings, it's mostly women who are the protagonists," said curator Pieter Roelofs, noting Vermeer had seven daughters.

Though no letter written by Vermeer exists, a key document is an inventory of possessions drawn up after his death, which left the family in debt. Furniture and many objects mentioned on the list appear in the paintings.

Roelofs said major advances have been made in understanding how Vermeer worked, including identifying pinholes at the focal point in some paintings such as "The Milkmaid", part of a system of strings he used to help ensure perfect perspective.

Artists and scholars dispute whether Vermeer may have made use of a "camera obscura", a forerunner of the modern photocamera.

Roelofs said Vermeer's works are more than something a good eye and skilled hand can create. Recent analysis shows the composition of "The Milkmaid" changed several times, notably by stripping things out to simplify it.

"That is what Vermeer is: it's never good enough and he keeps working on it until he thinks its sufficient to hand over to clients," Roelofs said.

Author Tracy Chevalier, whose novel "Girl with a Pearl Earring" was adapted to a movie of the same name, said for her the exhibition evoked an image of Vermeer as a reserved man who "plays his cards close to his chest."

"His paintings are so quiet and there are no children ... he must have compartmentalized his life and said 'no, no kids in the studio'."

Museums in Germany, France, Japan, Britain, Ireland and the United States contributed to the exhibition, which opens on Friday and runs until June.



Greece's 'Instagram Island' Santorini nears Saturation Point

Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP
Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP
TT

Greece's 'Instagram Island' Santorini nears Saturation Point

Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP
Tourists queue as they wait to take a picture from one of the balconies. Aris Oikonomou / AFP

One of the most enduring images of Greece's summer travel brand is the world-famous sunset on Santorini Island, framed by sea-blue church domes on a jagged cliff high above a volcanic caldera.
This scene has inspired millions of fridge magnets, posters, and souvenirs -- and now the queue to reach the viewing spot in the clifftop village of Oia can take more than 20 minutes, said AFP.
Santorini is a key stopover of the Greek cruise experience. But with parts of the island nearing saturation, officials are considering restrictions.
Of the record 32.7 million people who visited Greece last year, around 3.4 million, or one in 10, went to the island of just 15,500 residents.
"We need to set limits if we don't want to sink under overtourism," Santorini mayor Nikos Zorzos told AFP.
"There must not be a single extra bed... whether in the large hotels or Airbnb rentals."
As the sun set behind the horizon in Oia, thousands raised their phones to the sky to capture the moment, followed by scattered applause.
For canny entrepreneurs, the Cycladic island's famous sunset can be a cash cow.
One company advertised more than 50 "flying dresses", which have long flowing trains, for up to 370 euros ($401), on posters around Oia for anyone who wishes to "feel like a Greek goddess" or spruce up selfies.
'Respect Oia'
But elsewhere in Oia's narrow streets, residents have put up signs urging visitors to respect their home.
"RESPECT... It's your holiday... but it's our home," read a purple sign from the Save Oia group.
Shaped by a volcanic eruption 3,600 years ago, Santorini's landscape is "unique", the mayor said, and "should not be harmed by new infrastructure".
Around a fifth of the island is currently occupied by buildings.
At the edge of the cliff, a myriad of swimming pools and jacuzzis highlight Santorini is also a pricey destination.
In 2023, 800 cruise ships brought some 1.3 million passengers, according to the Hellenic Ports Association.
Cruise ships "do a lot of harm to the island", said Chantal Metakides, a Belgian resident of Santorini for 26 years.
"When there are eight or nine ships pumping out smoke, you can see the layer of pollution in the caldera," she said.
Cruise ship limits
In June, Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis floated the possibility of capping cruise ship arrivals to Greece's most popular islands.
"I think we'll do it next year," he told Bloomberg, noting that Santorini and tourist magnet Mykonos "are clearly suffering".
"There are people spending a lot of money to be on Santorini and they don’t want the island to be swamped," said the pro-business conservative leader, who was re-elected to a second four-year term last year.
In an AFP interview, Tourism Minister Olga Kefalogianni echoed this sentiment and said: "We must set quotas because it's impossible for an island such as Santorini... to have five cruise ships arriving at the same time."
Local officials have set a limit of 8,000 cruise boat passengers per day from next year.
But not all local operators agree.
Antonis Pagonis, head of Santorini's hoteliers association, believes better visitor flow management is part of the solution.
"It is not possible to have (on) a Monday, for example, 20 to 25,000 guests from the cruise ships, and the next day zero," he said.
Pagonis also argued that most of the congestion only affects parts of the island like the capital, Fira.
In the south of the island, the volcanic sand beaches are less crowded, even though it is high season in July.
'I'm in Türkiye
The modern tourism industry has also changed visitor behavior.
"I listened (to) people making a FaceTime call with the family, saying 'I'm in Türkiye," smiled tourist guide Kostas Sakavaras.
"They think that the church over there is a mosque because yesterday they were in Türkiye."
The veteran guide said the average tourist coming to the island has changed.
"Instagram has defined the way people choose the places to visit," he said, explaining everybody wants the perfect Instagram photo to confirm their expectations.