NY Fashion Week: Rodarte Stuns with Dark, Gothic Glamour

Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)
Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)
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NY Fashion Week: Rodarte Stuns with Dark, Gothic Glamour

Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)
Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)

Rodarte brought dark, gothic glamour and opulence to New York Fashion Week on Friday with a shimmering show that transported the audience to a majestic Celtic fairytale land with a dark twist.

The grandiose show held at the Williamsburg Savings Bank featured dining tables decorated with silver candelabras and brimming with food and fruits covered in silver sparkles, lending a feel of performance art to the fall/winter collection display.

Rodarte sister-duo designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who worked on the tutus for 2010's "Black Swan," seemingly pulled inspiration from the film again. Rodarte's line illustrated that the "balletcore" style trend may be headed down a darker path this year.

Models wore heavy, winged black eyeliner and black lipstick, matching their black gowns with long and pointy sleeves that draped to the floor for a dark fairy look.

In signature Rodarte fashion, buttery satin, ruffles, ribbons and lace were heavily present throughout some of the most visually pleasing gowns with simple silhouettes and puffy, broad shoulders and structuring. Some models wore capes and held grand bouquets of tulips.

"Winter" by Tori Amos set the haunting atmosphere as the gowns grew increasingly more avant-garde with hues of yellow, green and purple. A handful of models wore oversized black, blue and purple colored bonnets and veils like Tim Burton characters.

Celebrities such as Lana Condor, Brie Larson, Quinta Brunson, Maddie Ziegler and Rachel Zoe were in attendance Friday afternoon. Sitting front row was Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, who wore her sunglasses inside the dimly lit bank.

The forest-themed show also had models wearing silver fairy ears, crowns, and elaborate headpieces to add to the storytelling of the night.

Some of the most eye-catching looks of the afternoon were sported by four models who were draped in full- to medium-length colorful and iridescent tinsel gowns. Toward the end of the show, each model stood in the center of the sparkly tables for a moment of appreciation.

A weighted and structured golden tinsel dress that trailed about 20 feet (6 meters) behind its model closed out the wistful and folkloric show.



France's Christian Lacroix Label Heads for Spanish Ownership

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
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France's Christian Lacroix Label Heads for Spanish Ownership

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)

The Spanish fashion group Sociedad Textil Lonia (STL) announced Tuesday it had reached an agreement to buy France's Christian Lacroix label, hoping to return the once-mighty brand to its former glory.

The deal to acquire Lacroix from US-based Falic group, which specializes in duty-free retail, was for an undisclosed amount in a "private transaction", STL said.

"By acquiring Maison Lacroix, with its treasure of archives and rich history of French haute couture, STL expands its brand portfolio, strengthening its international presence in the world of high fashion," STL stated in a press release.

"We will do everything we can to ensure that the unique talent of its creator and his invaluable contribution to the world of fashion reach their full potential," the group added.

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group.

In 2009, following financial difficulties, the brand implemented a court-ordered recovery plan that resulted in around 100 job cuts and the discontinuation of haute couture operations.

Lacroix, now aged 73, left the group in 2010.

Having spent decades dressing celebrities, he turned to working for ballet and opera productions, as well as collaborating with other labels such as Dries Van Noten.

"The Spanish family that owns STL had the elegance to contact me ahead of the official announcement about the acquisition of the Christian Lacroix name and archives," he told Vogue Business on Tuesday. "We will probably meet soon in an informal way."

Founded in Spain in 1997, STL is a fashion company behind Spanish ready-to-wear brand Purificacion Garcia and the label of Venezuelan-American designer Carolina Herrera, employing 2,500 people and operating 600 stores worldwide, according to its website.