NY Fashion Week: Rodarte Stuns with Dark, Gothic Glamour

Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)
Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)
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NY Fashion Week: Rodarte Stuns with Dark, Gothic Glamour

Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)
Models present a creation from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week in New York City, US, February 10, 2023. (Reuters)

Rodarte brought dark, gothic glamour and opulence to New York Fashion Week on Friday with a shimmering show that transported the audience to a majestic Celtic fairytale land with a dark twist.

The grandiose show held at the Williamsburg Savings Bank featured dining tables decorated with silver candelabras and brimming with food and fruits covered in silver sparkles, lending a feel of performance art to the fall/winter collection display.

Rodarte sister-duo designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who worked on the tutus for 2010's "Black Swan," seemingly pulled inspiration from the film again. Rodarte's line illustrated that the "balletcore" style trend may be headed down a darker path this year.

Models wore heavy, winged black eyeliner and black lipstick, matching their black gowns with long and pointy sleeves that draped to the floor for a dark fairy look.

In signature Rodarte fashion, buttery satin, ruffles, ribbons and lace were heavily present throughout some of the most visually pleasing gowns with simple silhouettes and puffy, broad shoulders and structuring. Some models wore capes and held grand bouquets of tulips.

"Winter" by Tori Amos set the haunting atmosphere as the gowns grew increasingly more avant-garde with hues of yellow, green and purple. A handful of models wore oversized black, blue and purple colored bonnets and veils like Tim Burton characters.

Celebrities such as Lana Condor, Brie Larson, Quinta Brunson, Maddie Ziegler and Rachel Zoe were in attendance Friday afternoon. Sitting front row was Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, who wore her sunglasses inside the dimly lit bank.

The forest-themed show also had models wearing silver fairy ears, crowns, and elaborate headpieces to add to the storytelling of the night.

Some of the most eye-catching looks of the afternoon were sported by four models who were draped in full- to medium-length colorful and iridescent tinsel gowns. Toward the end of the show, each model stood in the center of the sparkly tables for a moment of appreciation.

A weighted and structured golden tinsel dress that trailed about 20 feet (6 meters) behind its model closed out the wistful and folkloric show.



Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
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Birkenstock Results Beat on Resilient Demand, Forecasts Margin Recovery

A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)
A Birkenstock shoe is displayed at Birkenstock shoe store in London, Britain, October 11, 2023. (Reuters)

Birkenstock beat market expectations for fourth-quarter results on robust demand for its pricey footwear and forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025, sending the company's shares up 7% on Wednesday.

With fresh styles becoming a priority for consumers, Birkenstock's sandals and closed-toe clogs have drawn new customers both at its own stores and at retailers.

The company bypassed steep discounting trends evident during the holiday shopping season, which Birkenstock executives said was off to a strong start globally.

"The expansion of ranges into more closed-toe silhouette has helped boost revenue, given that they offer multi-season wear," Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said.

Germany-based Birkenstock's average selling prices across its product range were up 8% in fiscal 2024, in part due to higher sales of clogs, the company said, adding that closed-toe styles now made up about a third of its business.

The company has invested in expanding its global store presence and increasing manufacturing capacity this year to meet demand.

While it led to a 330-basis point drop in gross margins in fiscal 2024, Birkenstock forecast a recovery in margins in fiscal 2025 as it ramps up production from new facilities.

The company reported fourth-quarter revenue of 455.8 million euros ($478.27 million), compared with the average analyst estimate of 439.2 million euros, according to data compiled by LSEG.

However, Birkenstock's forecast for fiscal 2025 revenue to increase between 15% and 17% was below estimates of 17.5% growth.

"It would appear with this incredibly healthy growth, the company is choosing to adopt a conservative approach that they expect to be able to meet and beat," BMO Capital Markets analyst Simeon Siegel said.

On an adjusted basis, Birkenstock earned 0.29 euro per share, beating estimates of 0.26 euro.