Black Dominates at Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo Back Goes to Old Hollywood

Models present creations for Dolce & Gabbana on February 25, 2023 during the Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women's Collections as part of the Fashion Week in Milan. (AFP)
Models present creations for Dolce & Gabbana on February 25, 2023 during the Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women's Collections as part of the Fashion Week in Milan. (AFP)
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Black Dominates at Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo Back Goes to Old Hollywood

Models present creations for Dolce & Gabbana on February 25, 2023 during the Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women's Collections as part of the Fashion Week in Milan. (AFP)
Models present creations for Dolce & Gabbana on February 25, 2023 during the Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Women's Collections as part of the Fashion Week in Milan. (AFP)

Designs in black dominated the catwalk at Dolce & Gabbana's Milan Fashion Week show on Saturday, with the Italian luxury label offering plenty of dresses, suits and coats for women's wardrobes next winter.

The duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana opened their autumn/winter 2023-2024 show with a black sheer dress accessorized with a furry collar and black gloves.

Then came trouser suits and coats alongside sheer, and sometimes embroidered, frocks in lace, tulle and chiffon. Cropped black jackets and trousers were worn with white shirts and black ties in the collection called "Sensual".

"Sensuality is an important aspect of femininity that has nothing to do with being sexy," the two designers said in show notes.

"Sensuality is intrinsically connected to an inner experience that makes women spontaneous and natural. Free of any fabrication."

Dolce & Gabbana also had shiny gold and silver designs, including draped dresses and belted macs. Gold collars stood out on black lace tops.

There was also a selection of all-red looks - outfits, tights and shoes - and white satin or chiffon dresses, trouser suits and coats.

Detailing included shiny black crystals and black feathers on collars.

At Ferragamo, designer Maximilian Davis took fashionistas back to old Hollywood, taking inspiration from film stars who worked with the Italian brand for the collection called "Cinema".

Models wore sleek tailored coats and jackets, shimmering short dresses, and trousers slit at the ankle.

Some outfits had batwing sleeves or draped detailing. Accessories included large bags and shoes with angular heels for women. Davis' color palette included blues, white, greys, red and yellow as well as patterned designs.

"It’s how Ferragamo started, making shoes for films in the 1930s, and that grew into building relationships with movie stars like Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s,” Davis said in show notes.

"I was interested in using their glamour and beauty, and their way of dressing, as a reference, but looking at how we could make it feel modern for today."

Milan Fashion Week wraps on Monday.



Uniqlo’s Chief Says Fast Fashion Must Change with the Times

 A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
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Uniqlo’s Chief Says Fast Fashion Must Change with the Times

 A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)

Forty years after its founding, Japanese clothing retailer Uniqlo has more than 2,500 stores worldwide. Sales at its parent company, Fast Retailing Co., recently topped 3 trillion yen ($20 billion) annually for the first time.

The name Uniqlo comes from joining the words for “unique” and “clothing.” The chain’s basic concept is “LifeWear,” or everyday clothing. Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing Co. Chief Executive Tadashi Yanai, ranked by Forbes as Japan’s richest man and estimated to be worth $48 billion, spoke recently to The Associated Press at the company’s Tokyo headquarters. The interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Q: What were the biggest challenges over the past 40 years?

A: Actually 40 years, upon reflection, went by so fast they feel more like three years. You know what they say in Japan: Time flies like an arrow. I started a regional business, then expanded nationwide.

When we became No. 2 or No. 3 in Japan’s casual wear, and being No. 1 was right within reach, we became a listed company in 1994. That was followed by our fleece boom, which doubled our revenue in one year to 400 billion yen ($2.6 billion).

I’d been thinking about going global when our revenue reached 300 billion yen ($2 billion) so we opened 50 stores in Great Britain, hoping to be a winner there just like we had conquered Japan.

Instead, we got totally knocked out.

We opened 21 outlets in a year and a half, but had to close 16 of them, leaving just five. We didn’t succeed as we had hoped. This is not an easy job. It’s very tough.

But these days, our sales are strongest in London, and also Paris. We made progress gradually.

Q: What are some of the sustainability and other key issues you have faced over the years?

A: We make clothes that last a long time. Not just clothes that last for one season.

The cashmere sweater I’m wearing today is $99. But please don’t say “cheap.” Please call it “reasonable.” We sell quality products at reasonable prices.

We’ve done various sustainability efforts, and we talk only about what we have really achieved.

Sustainability is crucial to our operations. And we’ve done just about everything — recycling, employing the disabled, support for refugees.

The prices may be cheaper at Wal-Mart, but our products offer real quality for the price. We take the greatest care and time, and involve a lot of people. Our rivals are more careless.

Q: What is behind Uniqlo’s success and what resonated with global buyers?

A: When we say Uniqlo is “made for all,” one might imagine products for the masses, like what’s at a Wal-Mart or a Target.

But what we mean is a high-quality product that appeals to all people, including the extremely rich, not only those with sophisticated taste and intelligence, but also people who don’t know that much about clothes, and the design is fine-tuned, the material fine quality, and sustainability concerns have been addressed.

We were first a retailer, then a manufacturer-cum-retailer. Now we are a digital consumer retailer. That is why we are successful. If we had stayed the same, then we can’t hope to succeed.

Being a digital consumer retail company means we utilize information at a high level to shape the way we do our work. We gain information about our customers, the workers at the store, the market, all that information.

Changing daily is the only way we can hope for stable growth. The world is changing every day.

Q: Are you confident you can keep it up another 40 years?

A: Of course. We’ve been preparing to reach 3 trillion yen ($20 billion) revenue all these years. And we are finally starting to be known. But we still have a long way to go.

We are just getting started, and we are going to keep growing. There is more potential for growth in Europe and the US, as well as China and India, given the 1.4 billion population in each country. Clothing is a necessity, so population size is key.