Saint Laurent Hits Paris Catwalk with Broad-Shouldered Glamour

A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)
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Saint Laurent Hits Paris Catwalk with Broad-Shouldered Glamour

A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)

Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello drew his Paris Fashion Week audience into a dark, chandelier-lined runway Tuesday night, sending out a sensual lineup of night-club-ready eveningwear derived from office classics—blazers, pinstripes and pencil skirts.

The show opened with a series of sharp-shouldered suit jackets – extra wide, double-breasted – worn over skimpy silk tops and slender, knee-skimming skirts.

Models marched down a carpeted catwalk on spiky, pointy-toed sling-backs, some with scarves trailing behind, as the styles moved between airy, feminine pussy bow blouses and more assertive masculine styles, like hulking bomber jackets and long, tailored coats in red plaid.

Aviator glasses and slicked-back hair styles completed the glamorous looks.

The set, which included low-hanging bronze chandeliers, evoked the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, the label’s favored venue for haute couture collections in the late 1970s through the start of the 2000 – but transported into a "radically contemporary black-box setting", according to the label’s show notes.

The temporary venue was set in the label’s traditional spot facing the Eiffel Tower, which glittered as the last guests streamed out after the show.

The Kering-owned label grew strongly last year, passing 3 billion euros ($3.2 billion) in sales, and the group plans to expand its retail network this year.



LVMH Shares Drop after Missing Second-quarter Estimates

A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
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LVMH Shares Drop after Missing Second-quarter Estimates

A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights
A man walks past a shop of fashion house Dior in Paris, France, April 15, 2024. REUTERS/Manon Cruz/File Photo Purchase Licensing Rights

Shares in LVMH (LVMH.PA) fell as much as 6.5% in early Wednesday trade and were on track for their biggest one-day drop since October 2023 after second-quarter sales growth at the French luxury goods giant missed analysts' consensus estimate.

The world's biggest luxury group said late Tuesday its quarterly sales rose 1% year on year to 20.98 billion euros ($22.76 billion), undershooting the 21.6 billion expected on average by analysts polled by LSEG.

At 1000 GMT, LVMH's shares were down 4.5%.

The earnings miss weighed on other luxury stocks, with Hermes (HRMS.PA), down around 2% and Kering (PRTP.PA), off 3%.

Kering is scheduled to report second-quarter sales after the market close and Hermes reports on Thursday, Reuters reported.

Jittery investors are looking for evidence that the industry will pick up from a recent slowdown, as inflation-hit shoppers hold off from splashing out on designer fashion.

JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini cut full year profit forecasts by 2-3% for the group, citing softer trends at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division, home to Louis Vuitton and Dior.

"The soft print is likely to add to ongoing investors’ concerns on the sector more broadly in our view, confirming that even best-in-class players like LVMH cannot be immune from the challenging backdrop," said Battistini in a note to clients.

The weakness of the yen, which has prompted a flood of Chinese shoppers to Japan seeking bargains on luxury goods, added pressure to margins, another source of concern.

Equita cut 2024 sales estimates for LVMH by 3% - attributing 1% to currency fluctuations - and lowered its second half organic sales estimate to 7% growth from 10% growth previously.

The lack of visibility for the second half beyond the easing of comparative figures - as the Chinese post-pandemic lockdown bounce tapered off a year ago - is unlikely to improve investor sentiment to the luxury sector, Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said in an email to clients.

"No miracle with the luxury bellwether; sector likely to remain out of favour," he wrote.

Jefferies analysts said the miss came as investors eye Chinese shoppers for their potential to "resume their pre-COVID role as the locomotive of industry growth and debate when Western consumers will have fully digested their COVID overspend".

LVMH shares have been volatile since the luxury slowdown emerged, and are down about 20% over the past year, with middle-class shoppers in China, the world's No. 2 economy, a key focus as they rein in purchases at home amid a property slump and job insecurity.

LVMH offered some reassurance, with finance chief Jean-Jacques Guiony telling analysts during a call on Tuesday that Chinese customers were "holding up quite well," while business with US and European customers was "slightly better".