Saint Laurent Hits Paris Catwalk with Broad-Shouldered Glamour

A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)
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Saint Laurent Hits Paris Catwalk with Broad-Shouldered Glamour

A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)
A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 28, 2023. (Reuters)

Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello drew his Paris Fashion Week audience into a dark, chandelier-lined runway Tuesday night, sending out a sensual lineup of night-club-ready eveningwear derived from office classics—blazers, pinstripes and pencil skirts.

The show opened with a series of sharp-shouldered suit jackets – extra wide, double-breasted – worn over skimpy silk tops and slender, knee-skimming skirts.

Models marched down a carpeted catwalk on spiky, pointy-toed sling-backs, some with scarves trailing behind, as the styles moved between airy, feminine pussy bow blouses and more assertive masculine styles, like hulking bomber jackets and long, tailored coats in red plaid.

Aviator glasses and slicked-back hair styles completed the glamorous looks.

The set, which included low-hanging bronze chandeliers, evoked the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, the label’s favored venue for haute couture collections in the late 1970s through the start of the 2000 – but transported into a "radically contemporary black-box setting", according to the label’s show notes.

The temporary venue was set in the label’s traditional spot facing the Eiffel Tower, which glittered as the last guests streamed out after the show.

The Kering-owned label grew strongly last year, passing 3 billion euros ($3.2 billion) in sales, and the group plans to expand its retail network this year.



80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
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80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)

L.L. Bean created it 80 years ago to haul heavy blocks of ice. Now it's a must-have summer fashion accessory, The Associated Press reported.

The simple, sturdy canvas bag called the Boat and Tote is having an extended moment 80 years after its introduction, thanks to a social media trend in which they're monogrammed with ironic or flashy phrases.

New Yorker Gracie Wiener helped get it started by ordering her humble bags from L.L. Bean monogrammed with “Psycho” and then “Prada,” the pricey Italian luxury brand, instead of just her name or initials, and posting about them on Instagram. Then others began showcasing their own unique bags on TikTok.

Soon, it wasn’t enough to have a bag monogrammed with “Schlepper,” “HOT MESS,” “slayyyy” or “cool mom.” Customers began testing the limits of the human censors in L.L. Bean’s monogram department, which bans profanity “or other objectionable words or phrases,” with more provocative wording like “Bite me,” “Dum Blonde” and “Ambitchous.”

Social media fueled the surge, just as it did for Stanley’s tumblers and Trader Joe’s $2.99 canvas bags, which were once selling on eBay for $200, said Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana, which tracks consumer spending and trends.
The tote’s revival came at a time when price-conscious consumers were forgoing expensive handbags, sales of which have weakened, and L.L. Bean’s bag fit the bill as a functional item that’s trendy precisely because it’s not trendy, she said. L.L. Bean's regular bags top out at about $55, though some fancier versions cost upward of $100.
“There’s a trend toward the utilitarian, the simple things and more accessible price points,” she said, and the customization added to the appeal: “Status items don’t have to be designer price points.”

L.L. Bean’s tote was first advertised in a catalog as Bean’s Ice Carrier in 1944 during World War II, when ice chests were common. Then they disappeared before being reintroduced in 1965 as the Boat and Tote.

These days, they’re still made in Maine and are still capable of hauling 500 pounds of ice, but they are far more likely to carry laptops, headphones, groceries, books, beach gear, travel essentials and other common items.

Those snarky, pop-oriented phrases transformed them into a sassy essential and helped them spread beyond Maine, Massachusetts’ Cape Cod and other New England enclaves to places like Los Angeles and New York City, where fashionistas like Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and Sarah Jessica Parker are toting them — but not necessarily brandished with ironic phrases.

“It’s just one of those things that makes people smile and makes people laugh, and it’s unexpected,” said Wiener, who got it all started with her @ironicboatandtote Instagram page, which she started as a fun side hustle from her job as social media manager for Air Mail, a digital publication launched by former Vanity Fair Editor-in-Chief Graydon Carter.

The folks at L.L. Bean were both stunned and pleased by the continuing growth. For the past two years, the Boat and Tote has been L.L. Bean’s No. 1 contributor to luring in new customers, and sales grew 64% from fiscal years 2021 to 2023, spokesperson Amanda Hannah said.

The surge in popularity is reminiscent of L.L. Bean’s traditional hunting shoe, the iconic staple for trudging through rain and muck, which enjoyed its own moment a few years back, driven by college students.