Louboutin on 30 Years of Red Obsession

File photo: French shoe designer Christian Louboutin poses with one of his creations during a photo session at the Palais de la Porte Doree in Paris a few days before the opening of his exhibition. PHOTO: AFP
File photo: French shoe designer Christian Louboutin poses with one of his creations during a photo session at the Palais de la Porte Doree in Paris a few days before the opening of his exhibition. PHOTO: AFP
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Louboutin on 30 Years of Red Obsession

File photo: French shoe designer Christian Louboutin poses with one of his creations during a photo session at the Palais de la Porte Doree in Paris a few days before the opening of his exhibition. PHOTO: AFP
File photo: French shoe designer Christian Louboutin poses with one of his creations during a photo session at the Palais de la Porte Doree in Paris a few days before the opening of his exhibition. PHOTO: AFP

It was 30 years ago that Christian Louboutin borrowed his assistant's nail varnish to fix a problematic sole and inadvertently created a design that would make him globally famous.

It was 1993 and Louboutin, then 30, was examining a pink and purple shoe prototype. The black sole was too dominant, he felt, and so called for his assistant.

"I took the nail polish and erased the black. I wasn't thinking to add the red," he recalled to AFP in his brightly decorated Paris apartment.

"But suddenly it was a revelation!"

The earlier idea of releasing a different color sole each season never materialized.

"People who don't like to wear colors still like red," he said.

"The obsession began with the fact that red is more than just a color for me.

"I have very early memories of women dressed in black but already with red nails and lips. It began with cinema, the actresses of the 1950s like Sophia Loren."

He marked the 30th anniversary of his famous red sole this week with a dance performance at the Opera Comique and will soon open his first hotel in Portugal named "Vermelho" (Red).

The black stiletto with the red sole remains his best-selling model, despite the range of flats and mid-heels.

He rejects the idea of heels as anti-feminist, saying he delights in seeing customers put on a pair of stilettos and admire themselves "front, profile and back" without caring what their "husband, boyfriend or girlfriend will think".

Or little girls trying on their mother's heels without anyone telling them to: "There is a kind of infantile pleasure in seeing life from a little higher up."

For him, heels are a symbol of female empowerment.

He thinks of Tina Turner in her heyday, or Beyonce now, teetering on heels but incarnating "feminism, much more than someone who lets themselves go".

With the passing of lockdowns and lounging around in pajamas, it is time to celebrate, he added.

His new collection, inspired by flamenco, sees him collaborate with Rossy de Palma, the flamboyant Spanish star of many Pedro Almodovar movies.

"I like singular people, and there is only one Rossy," he said. "Someone who exudes amusement, pleasure, laughter, everything."



80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
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80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)

L.L. Bean created it 80 years ago to haul heavy blocks of ice. Now it's a must-have summer fashion accessory, The Associated Press reported.

The simple, sturdy canvas bag called the Boat and Tote is having an extended moment 80 years after its introduction, thanks to a social media trend in which they're monogrammed with ironic or flashy phrases.

New Yorker Gracie Wiener helped get it started by ordering her humble bags from L.L. Bean monogrammed with “Psycho” and then “Prada,” the pricey Italian luxury brand, instead of just her name or initials, and posting about them on Instagram. Then others began showcasing their own unique bags on TikTok.

Soon, it wasn’t enough to have a bag monogrammed with “Schlepper,” “HOT MESS,” “slayyyy” or “cool mom.” Customers began testing the limits of the human censors in L.L. Bean’s monogram department, which bans profanity “or other objectionable words or phrases,” with more provocative wording like “Bite me,” “Dum Blonde” and “Ambitchous.”

Social media fueled the surge, just as it did for Stanley’s tumblers and Trader Joe’s $2.99 canvas bags, which were once selling on eBay for $200, said Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana, which tracks consumer spending and trends.
The tote’s revival came at a time when price-conscious consumers were forgoing expensive handbags, sales of which have weakened, and L.L. Bean’s bag fit the bill as a functional item that’s trendy precisely because it’s not trendy, she said. L.L. Bean's regular bags top out at about $55, though some fancier versions cost upward of $100.
“There’s a trend toward the utilitarian, the simple things and more accessible price points,” she said, and the customization added to the appeal: “Status items don’t have to be designer price points.”

L.L. Bean’s tote was first advertised in a catalog as Bean’s Ice Carrier in 1944 during World War II, when ice chests were common. Then they disappeared before being reintroduced in 1965 as the Boat and Tote.

These days, they’re still made in Maine and are still capable of hauling 500 pounds of ice, but they are far more likely to carry laptops, headphones, groceries, books, beach gear, travel essentials and other common items.

Those snarky, pop-oriented phrases transformed them into a sassy essential and helped them spread beyond Maine, Massachusetts’ Cape Cod and other New England enclaves to places like Los Angeles and New York City, where fashionistas like Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and Sarah Jessica Parker are toting them — but not necessarily brandished with ironic phrases.

“It’s just one of those things that makes people smile and makes people laugh, and it’s unexpected,” said Wiener, who got it all started with her @ironicboatandtote Instagram page, which she started as a fun side hustle from her job as social media manager for Air Mail, a digital publication launched by former Vanity Fair Editor-in-Chief Graydon Carter.

The folks at L.L. Bean were both stunned and pleased by the continuing growth. For the past two years, the Boat and Tote has been L.L. Bean’s No. 1 contributor to luring in new customers, and sales grew 64% from fiscal years 2021 to 2023, spokesperson Amanda Hannah said.

The surge in popularity is reminiscent of L.L. Bean’s traditional hunting shoe, the iconic staple for trudging through rain and muck, which enjoyed its own moment a few years back, driven by college students.