Godzilla Claw Shoes on Oscars Red Carpet Are Just One of Hazama’s ‘Dark Fantasy’ Creations 

The various Godzilla-themes shoes by Japanese fashion designer Ryosuke Matsui, on a table also designed by Matsui, are shown during an interview with The Associated Press at his company office on the outskirts of Tokyo, Friday, March 22, 2024. (AP)
The various Godzilla-themes shoes by Japanese fashion designer Ryosuke Matsui, on a table also designed by Matsui, are shown during an interview with The Associated Press at his company office on the outskirts of Tokyo, Friday, March 22, 2024. (AP)
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Godzilla Claw Shoes on Oscars Red Carpet Are Just One of Hazama’s ‘Dark Fantasy’ Creations 

The various Godzilla-themes shoes by Japanese fashion designer Ryosuke Matsui, on a table also designed by Matsui, are shown during an interview with The Associated Press at his company office on the outskirts of Tokyo, Friday, March 22, 2024. (AP)
The various Godzilla-themes shoes by Japanese fashion designer Ryosuke Matsui, on a table also designed by Matsui, are shown during an interview with The Associated Press at his company office on the outskirts of Tokyo, Friday, March 22, 2024. (AP)

One Japanese creation grabbing attention on the Oscars red carpet wasn't a movie: the kitsch shoes that seemed to be clenched in Godzilla's claw.

They were the work of Ryosuke Matsui, who recently described his joy at seeing “Godzilla Minus One” director Takashi Yamazaki and his Shirogumi special-effects team walk the red carpet and win the visual effects Oscar, all while wearing his shoes.

“The director loves my shoes. He calls them his uniform,” Matsui told The Associated Press in an interview.

At 35 with a fashion career that's barely a decade old, Matsui heads his own brand called Hazama, which means “the space-in-between” in Japanese.

A small business with just six employees, Hazama offers girlie outfits with fluffy skirts, as well as Gothic themes, kimono and sweaters in gradient colors, jackets with repetitive motifs evocative of Andy Warhol, sofas and coffee tables, and, of course, the shoes with the crazy heels.

One pair has a pistol trigger you can really pull though without any bullets, while another looks like it’s stuck in an alien’s blood-red teeth.

“Dark fantasy” is what Matsui calls his motifs. His imaginary world is filled with odd creatures like witches, scary penguins and iridescent polar bears, where objects suddenly melt, a face might get replaced by a giant rose, or a horrific hand grabs your heel from underground.

His brand’s spaces in-between are the filters through which Matsui sees and expresses his mesmerizing stories of the beginnings of time, inhabited by “the people” he’s concocted. He would love to have his own café or work on an animation project.

“Of course, cool people look great, no matter what they wear, but clothes can change the way you think, how you relate to people around you, work as that doorway into building your confidence,” he said.

Matsui's no-nonsense friendly attitude defies his demure first impression. Sitting amid mounds of boxes and packages of clothing at his office on the outskirts of Tokyo, he was wearing a Hazama-designed hoodie with rainbow-tinged fangs of an “aurora shark” for studs, with torn Yves Saint Laurent jeans and Nike sneakers. He said he wasn't wearing his Godzilla shoes because he was working.

The Godzilla shoes originated as a special order from the film’s producer for the Japan premiere in October last year. Their stealing the show at the recent Academy Awards ceremony wasn’t even in the script then.

It took Matsui about a year to finish the initial three designs, the 75,000 yen (about $500) red pumps for actress Minami Hamabe, the 88,000 yen ($600) shoes for Yamazaki, and boots decorated with jagged scales, priced at 105,500 yen ($700), for Ryunosuke Kamiki, the movie’s co-star alongside Godzilla.

The entire first batch of several hundred already sold out. Plans are underway to produce more, perhaps in different colors, like gold in homage of the Oscar statue.

Interest has been huge, according to Matsui. But, in theory, everyone who’s got their hearts set on a Godzilla shoe should be able to get one, eventually.

Growing up in a loving family that sent him to piano and swimming lessons and “juku” cram schools, Matsui is a graduate of the prestigious Keio University and could have easily become a successful “salaryman” like other young Japanese men.

But he didn’t want to part with his then-blond hair.

Although he has always respected Yohji Yamamoto, he purposely pursued color and fabric texture, instead of Yamamoto’s focus on black and stark lines.

When asked about his global ambitions, Matsui acknowledged he is quite happy working in Japan. His dream is surprisingly local: to create the fashion for Bump of Chicken, a Japanese rock band.

Besides, he’s afraid of flying.



Flights of Fancy at Bottega Veneta with Shimmering, Tactile Collection

A model presents a creation for Bottega Veneta during the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (AFP)
A model presents a creation for Bottega Veneta during the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (AFP)
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Flights of Fancy at Bottega Veneta with Shimmering, Tactile Collection

A model presents a creation for Bottega Veneta during the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (AFP)
A model presents a creation for Bottega Veneta during the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (AFP)

Grey and brutalist, showy and shimmering -- the stark contrasts of the Italian fashion capital of Milan fueled the creative mind of Bottega Veneta's Louise Trotter in her second collection for the brand.

The city's harsh aspects found expression in the armor-like coats that Trotter sent down the runway Saturday night at Milan Fashion Week, while its theatrical side burst forth from delightfully tactile creations made from recycled fiberglass that swayed and shimmered as models made their way down the runway.

The Fall/Winter collection for the brand known for its "intreccio" technique of woven leather was inspired by "what Milanese style meant to me and Bottega Veneta from my viewpoint," Trotter told journalists backstage after the show.

The brutalism of the city, whether in its architecture or its notoriously grey weather, juxtaposes with a more hidden "sensuality and seduction", she said.

That translated to the coats, long jackets and coat dresses with bold, exaggerated shoulders -- "like armor", Trotter said -- some of them with an accompanying brown leather belt that dangled, sword-like, from the waist.

As is fitting for Bottega Veneta, leather infused the collection for both men and women, here on shoulder patches, there on epaulets or collars.

One model was virtually swaddled in supple olive leather, her oversized bomber jacket with high collar paired with an asymmetrical matching leather skirt, with nubby leather flip-flops at her feet.

But the collection took a dramatic turn with the arrival of a series of over-the-top showstopping coats made from recycled fiberglass, a synthetic material introduced at Trotter's debut last September.

The costume-like poofs moved and shimmered under the lights of the former theater where the runway show was held, just steps from the La Scala opera, many of them paired with matching hats, in colors of electric blue, black and bubble-gum pink.

A sweater worn by a male model recalled a Harlequin theme with splotches of red and black against the white background of the shimmering, fur-like material.

"I wanted to express that joy, that theatric," said Trotter, saying the looks expressed the more showy side of Milan's residents, who "really dress up."

"I think it's quite unusual or rare today to find that. And I think it's dressing up for oneself and also for one's community. I think it's a sign of pride and respect."

Trotter's goal as a designer, she said, was to "bring joy and confidence to people" through clothing.

Backstage, rapper Lauryn Hill had on one of Trotter's glittering sweaters of fiberglass, in electric orange, accessorized with an oversized "intreccio" purse with fringe.

An entourage of assistants directed hand fans in Hill's direction to keep her cool, sending the fibers of the outrageous garment aflutter.

"It's got a life of its own," said one of them, with a smile.


Madonna is Surprise Attraction at Dolce & Gabbana Milan Show

US singer Madonna (L) is welcomed by Italian stylists Domenico Dolce (R) and Stefano Gabbana (C) after the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)
US singer Madonna (L) is welcomed by Italian stylists Domenico Dolce (R) and Stefano Gabbana (C) after the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)
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Madonna is Surprise Attraction at Dolce & Gabbana Milan Show

US singer Madonna (L) is welcomed by Italian stylists Domenico Dolce (R) and Stefano Gabbana (C) after the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)
US singer Madonna (L) is welcomed by Italian stylists Domenico Dolce (R) and Stefano Gabbana (C) after the womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on February 28, 2026. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)

Step aside, influencers! Madonna was the star attraction Saturday at the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan, the week's top celebrity sighting that risked overshadowing the brand's all-black collection of ultra-feminine looks.

Arriving 45 minutes late, the "Material Girl" made her way to her seat -- next to fashion doyenne Anna Wintour, no less -- wearing a short black corset-style dress underneath a black jacket, dark glasses and turquoise gloves.

And when Madonna is at your show during Milan Fashion Week, you practically leap from the catwalk to greet her, as did Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce afterwards, escorting their guest backstage to the flash of hundreds of cameras, AFP reported.

Madonna, who has worked with D&G since the 1990s, stars in the brand's campaign for its The One perfume along with actor Alberto Guerra, also at the show.

The latest collection from the design pair was inspired by the idea of identity, according to the show notes, and built on "Sicily as emotion, black as strength, lace as intimacy, tailoring as authority".

Double-breasted panels featured on sharply tailored menswear-inspired black coats, trenches and pinstripe suits -- but placed on the garment's back side, offering a surprise enjoyed from both directions on the catwalk.

The designers heavily tapped black lace and sheer silk organza, allowing for ample glimpses of skin despite skirts cut to the shins, some with flouncy hems.

The lingerie feel pervaded the collection, on minidresses with long sleeves, flowing skirts, see-through tops or on bralettes worn underneath other lacey looks.

As in many of D&G's past collections, Sicily, the birthplace of Dolce, loomed large, whether in the knit fringed shawls that recalled elderly Sicilian widows or the black kerchiefs tied under the chin covering the models' hair.

The expert crochet handiwork on sweaters and shawls could have been done by Sicilian grandmothers -- who would likely have been shocked by how the old-fashioned technique became modern and sexy in the hands of the two designers.

A black corset and garters over hot pants were accessorized by a scarf that recalled a Sicilian staple, a fishing net, with its open weave.

Little black dresses were structured, sensual and very tight, while imposing (fake) fur coats were belted and paired with black kerchiefs.

One showstopper with diagonal white-and-black stripes would have made Disney villainess Cruella de Vil proud, while another in rich brown and black tones looked as if it could have been worn by Edie Beale in the 1975 queer culture classic, documentary "Grey Gardens".

After the show, D&G Chief Executive Alfonso Dolce, Domenico's brother, declined to comment on the current environment in the luxury industry, but told AFP that "we need to be positive, love life, and do our best every day in what we can do.

"We need love and peace, because if we have that, we have everything."


For Roberto Cavalli Designer, Dreams Come in All Black

 A model presents a creation by Cavalli during a fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week Women's collection Fall-Winter 2026-2027 in Milan on February 26, 2025. (AFP)
A model presents a creation by Cavalli during a fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week Women's collection Fall-Winter 2026-2027 in Milan on February 26, 2025. (AFP)
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For Roberto Cavalli Designer, Dreams Come in All Black

 A model presents a creation by Cavalli during a fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week Women's collection Fall-Winter 2026-2027 in Milan on February 26, 2025. (AFP)
A model presents a creation by Cavalli during a fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week Women's collection Fall-Winter 2026-2027 in Milan on February 26, 2025. (AFP)

Black may have been the color chosen by Roberto Cavalli's creative director for the new women's collection at Milan Fashion Week, but Fausto Puglisi is hardly feeling negative.

The nearly all-black palette -- accentuated with romantic jolts of lilac and plum -- used by Puglisi Thursday night at Milan Fashion Week was instead a defiant statement for the label known for its bold, often aggressive colors and animal prints.

"I wanted the collection to be black because I still have my dreams," Puglisi told AFP backstage after the show, where a version of the Eurythmics' 1980s pop classic "Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This)" accompanied the models down the catwalk.

Stiff embossed black leather on cropped jackets or skirts jutted out dramatically like mushroom caps while slouchy, low-slung trousers sewn from black vinyl shimmered like black liquid.

The dark collection nevertheless celebrated lightness and texture, with a strong dose of see-through black lace -- on tight sleeves, barely there slip dresses or paired with black velvet.

Persian lamb -- faux, of course -- had its moment, on trousers, coats, jackets and intermixed with black velvet to form the ruffles of a long skirt paired with lace-up boots.

"It's fake," enthused Puglisi proudly of the glossy, tightly curled Persian lamb.

"I love animals, I would never use real fur."

- 'Continue to dream' -

Puglisi recreated the look of fur, its wispiness and color variations, by printing it on flowing fabric, while a long black form-fitting tunic used sheer cut-outs to reproduce the stripes of a zebra.

A mood board backstage showed Old Master floral still lifes, Roman centurion breastplates and leather strips worn as armor, as well as black-and-white photographs of goth-like images and other inspirations.

Did Puglisi find it hard to be working in fashion in the current state of the world?

"I think it's important to create beauty. Always. It's like telling a director to stop, it's the same thing," he said, calling fashion, films and music "escapism".

"I think it's very important to keep creating with the vision of a child, with naivety and freshness," he added.

"I will not allow any dictator to stop my creativity. I continue to create and I continue to dream," he said.

To that effect, the last look of the night was a showstopper.

Its high necked top mixed lace, cut-outs and ruffles while its skirt looked like it had been sewn from a million black faux feathers.

All the better for Puglisi's dreams to take flight.