Kering Warns on Annual 2024 Operating Profit as Gucci Sales Fall

This photograph taken during a presentation press conference in Paris on March 22, 2013 shows the new name and logo of French luxury and retail group PPR which will become officially Kering after its approval by the annual general meeting to be held on June 18. (AFP)
This photograph taken during a presentation press conference in Paris on March 22, 2013 shows the new name and logo of French luxury and retail group PPR which will become officially Kering after its approval by the annual general meeting to be held on June 18. (AFP)
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Kering Warns on Annual 2024 Operating Profit as Gucci Sales Fall

This photograph taken during a presentation press conference in Paris on March 22, 2013 shows the new name and logo of French luxury and retail group PPR which will become officially Kering after its approval by the annual general meeting to be held on June 18. (AFP)
This photograph taken during a presentation press conference in Paris on March 22, 2013 shows the new name and logo of French luxury and retail group PPR which will become officially Kering after its approval by the annual general meeting to be held on June 18. (AFP)

French luxury goods group Kering warned on Wednesday its full-year operating income would almost halve after reporting a larger-than-expected drop in third quarter sales, as weak demand in China deepened the struggles of its main label Gucci.

Revenue for the group which also owns fashion brands Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, was 3.79 billion euros ($4.08 billion), a 16% decline on an organic basis.

The figure was worse than an analyst consensus estimate of an 11% decline, according to a Barclays note.

Kering said its 2024 recurring operating income could be about 2.5 billion euros, following the larger-than-expected slowdown in the third quarter, compared with 4.75 billion euros a year earlier.

Kering's warning comes as the luxury sector suffers a slowdown, with luxury bellwether LVMH last week missing expectations and flagging a drop in Chinese consumer confidence to COVID-era lows, with a deterioration in demand for high end fashion over the quarter.

Sales at Gucci, which accounts for half of annual group sales and two-thirds of profit, continued to slide and were down 25% in the quarter, compared to analysts' consensus expectations for a 21% decline.

"We are executing a far-reaching transformation of the group, and at Gucci in particular, at a time when the whole luxury sector faces unfavorable market conditions," Kering Chair and CEO Francois Henri Pinault said in a statement.

Kering has been managing a broad overhaul of the century-old Italian fashion house, rebuilding top executive teams and introducing a new streamlined design style under the artistic direction of Sabato de Sarno, while pushing the products upmarket.

The group said in a statement that the overhaul of Gucci's leather goods category, with the introduction of a host of new products late in the quarter, was well underway.

Earlier this month, it named Stefano Cantino as CEO effective from January, replacing longtime Kering executive Jean-Francois Palus who held the role for an interim period since last year.



Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
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Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)

Kering reported on Tuesday a slightly smaller-than-expected drop in fourth-quarter sales, as investors await details of CEO Luca de Meo's plans ​to revive the Gucci owner's flagging fortunes.

Sales reached 3.9 billion euros ($4.64 billion), down 3% from the previous year when adjusted for currency swings. That beat analysts' consensus forecast for a 5% drop, according to Visible Alpha.

The revenue drop was 10% at Italian flagship label Gucci, which accounts for most of Kering's profits, versus analyst expectations of a 12% decline.

It ‌was the brand's ‌10th straight quarter of revenue ‌decline.

Finance ⁠Chief ​Armelle ‌Poulou told journalists Gucci saw some improvement at the end of last year in "almost all regions", helped by newly introduced products and handbag sales.

Grappling with weak sales since the maximalist styles of Gucci's former star designer Alessandro Michele fell out of fashion in 2022, Kering has faced heightened investor scrutiny over its high ⁠debt and declining profitability.

Free cash from operations fell by 35% last year ‌when excluding one-off payments from real estate ‍sales, reaching 2.3 billion euros, Kering ‍said.

"For Kering, it's really about (restoring) the broad desirability globally," said ‍JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini.

Facing an uncertain business outlook, the group, which also owns Gucci Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, further reduced its store network by 75 boutiques with further closures planned, Poulou said.

The ​earnings underscored the steep challenges Kering faces to catch up with peers even though its shares have ⁠risen around 50% since de Meo's appointment was announced last June.

"2025 did not reflect Kering's true potential or the strength of our brands, but it enabled us to lay the foundations for our future recovery," said Poulou.

Kering's annual operating income reached 1.63 billion euros, less than a third of its 2022 level. Kering's operating profit margin fell to 11% group-wide and 16% at Gucci, down from 28% and 36% three years earlier.

By contrast, LVMH delivered a 22% margin last year amid ‌a broader luxury slowdown, with its leather and fashion division - home to Louis Vuitton and Dior - hitting 35%.


Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
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Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Pieter Mulier has been named the new creative director of the Milan fashion house Versace starting July 1, according to an announcement on Thursday from the Prada Group, which owns Versace.

Mulier is currently creative director of the French fashion house Alaïa, and was previously the right-hand man of fellow Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Dior.

In his new role, Mulier will report to Versace executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the designated successor to manage the family-run Prada Group. Bertelli is the son of Miuccia Prada and Prada Group chairman Patrizio Bertelli.

“We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue,’’ The Associated Press quoted Lorenzo Bertelli as saying of Mulier in a statement.

Mulier takes over from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after previewing just one collection during his short-lived Versace stint.

Mulier was honored last fall by supermodel and longtime Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his work paying tribute to brand founder Azzedine Alaïa. Mulier took the creative helm in 2021, after Alaïa’s death.


Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
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Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo

Ralph Lauren posted third-quarter results above Wall Street estimates on Thursday, but the luxury retailer's warning of margin pressure tied to US tariffs sent its shares down nearly 6.4% in premarket trading.

The company expects fourth-quarter margins, its smallest revenue period, to shrink about 80 to 120 basis points due to higher tariff pressure and marketing spend.

Ralph Lauren, which sources its products from regions such as China, India and Vietnam, has relied on raising prices and reallocating production to regions with lower duty exposure to offset US tariff pressures, Reuters reported.

"Ralph Lauren has been able to raise prices for some time now. There is some limit on how long it can continue to do this. I think (the company's) gross margins are near peak levels," Morningstar analyst David Swartz said.

The company, which sells $148 striped linen shirts and $498 leather handbags, has tightened inventory, lifted full-price sales and refreshed core styles, boosting its appeal among wealthier and younger customers, including Gen Z.

Higher-income households are still splurging on luxury items, travel and restaurant meals, while lower- and middle-income consumers are strained by higher costs for rents and food as well as a softer job market.

The New York City-based company saw quarterly operating costs jump 12% year-on-year as it ramped up brand building efforts through sports-focused brand campaigns such as Wimbledon and the US Open tennis championship.

The luxury retailer said revenue in the quarter ended December 27 rose 12% to $2.41 billion, above analysts' estimates of a 7.9% rise to $2.31 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG.

It earned $6.22 per share, excluding items, compared to expectations of $5.81, aided by a 220 basis points increase in margins and an 18% rise in average unit retail across its direct-to-consumer channel.

Ralph Lauren now expects fiscal 2026 revenue to rise in the high single to low double digits on a constant currency basis, up from its prior forecast of a 5% to 7% growth.