Uniqlo’s Chief Says Fast Fashion Must Change with the Times

 A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
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Uniqlo’s Chief Says Fast Fashion Must Change with the Times

 A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)
A woman walks past jumpers for sale at the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024. (AFP)

Forty years after its founding, Japanese clothing retailer Uniqlo has more than 2,500 stores worldwide. Sales at its parent company, Fast Retailing Co., recently topped 3 trillion yen ($20 billion) annually for the first time.

The name Uniqlo comes from joining the words for “unique” and “clothing.” The chain’s basic concept is “LifeWear,” or everyday clothing. Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing Co. Chief Executive Tadashi Yanai, ranked by Forbes as Japan’s richest man and estimated to be worth $48 billion, spoke recently to The Associated Press at the company’s Tokyo headquarters. The interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Q: What were the biggest challenges over the past 40 years?

A: Actually 40 years, upon reflection, went by so fast they feel more like three years. You know what they say in Japan: Time flies like an arrow. I started a regional business, then expanded nationwide.

When we became No. 2 or No. 3 in Japan’s casual wear, and being No. 1 was right within reach, we became a listed company in 1994. That was followed by our fleece boom, which doubled our revenue in one year to 400 billion yen ($2.6 billion).

I’d been thinking about going global when our revenue reached 300 billion yen ($2 billion) so we opened 50 stores in Great Britain, hoping to be a winner there just like we had conquered Japan.

Instead, we got totally knocked out.

We opened 21 outlets in a year and a half, but had to close 16 of them, leaving just five. We didn’t succeed as we had hoped. This is not an easy job. It’s very tough.

But these days, our sales are strongest in London, and also Paris. We made progress gradually.

Q: What are some of the sustainability and other key issues you have faced over the years?

A: We make clothes that last a long time. Not just clothes that last for one season.

The cashmere sweater I’m wearing today is $99. But please don’t say “cheap.” Please call it “reasonable.” We sell quality products at reasonable prices.

We’ve done various sustainability efforts, and we talk only about what we have really achieved.

Sustainability is crucial to our operations. And we’ve done just about everything — recycling, employing the disabled, support for refugees.

The prices may be cheaper at Wal-Mart, but our products offer real quality for the price. We take the greatest care and time, and involve a lot of people. Our rivals are more careless.

Q: What is behind Uniqlo’s success and what resonated with global buyers?

A: When we say Uniqlo is “made for all,” one might imagine products for the masses, like what’s at a Wal-Mart or a Target.

But what we mean is a high-quality product that appeals to all people, including the extremely rich, not only those with sophisticated taste and intelligence, but also people who don’t know that much about clothes, and the design is fine-tuned, the material fine quality, and sustainability concerns have been addressed.

We were first a retailer, then a manufacturer-cum-retailer. Now we are a digital consumer retailer. That is why we are successful. If we had stayed the same, then we can’t hope to succeed.

Being a digital consumer retail company means we utilize information at a high level to shape the way we do our work. We gain information about our customers, the workers at the store, the market, all that information.

Changing daily is the only way we can hope for stable growth. The world is changing every day.

Q: Are you confident you can keep it up another 40 years?

A: Of course. We’ve been preparing to reach 3 trillion yen ($20 billion) revenue all these years. And we are finally starting to be known. But we still have a long way to go.

We are just getting started, and we are going to keep growing. There is more potential for growth in Europe and the US, as well as China and India, given the 1.4 billion population in each country. Clothing is a necessity, so population size is key.



Dr. Martens’ Annual Profit Surges 61% on Cost Cuts and Fewer Discounts

Dr. Martens shoes are displayed inside a shop in Manchester, Britain, May 26, 2023. (Reuters)
Dr. Martens shoes are displayed inside a shop in Manchester, Britain, May 26, 2023. (Reuters)
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Dr. Martens’ Annual Profit Surges 61% on Cost Cuts and Fewer Discounts

Dr. Martens shoes are displayed inside a shop in Manchester, Britain, May 26, 2023. (Reuters)
Dr. Martens shoes are displayed inside a shop in Manchester, Britain, May 26, 2023. (Reuters)

Dr. Martens on Tuesday posted a 61.3% jump in full-year adjusted pre-tax profit, as the British bootmaker began to ‌see results from ‌a tighter ‌control ⁠on costs and fewer ⁠discounts.

The company, known for its iconic lace-up chunky boots, has deliberately pulled ⁠back on clearance ‌activity ‌across its direct-to-consumer and ‌wholesale channels to ‌improve the quality of its sales.

Dr. Martens posted adjusted pre-tax ‌profit of 55 million pounds ($73.78 million) for ⁠the ⁠year ended March 29, up from the 34.1 million pounds posted last year, with shoes being the standout performer.


Gucci Takes Over New York's Times Square for Fashion Show

A model presents a creation from the Gucci Cruise 2027 collection at Times Square in New York City, US, May 16, 2026. REUTERS/Eduardo Munoz
A model presents a creation from the Gucci Cruise 2027 collection at Times Square in New York City, US, May 16, 2026. REUTERS/Eduardo Munoz
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Gucci Takes Over New York's Times Square for Fashion Show

A model presents a creation from the Gucci Cruise 2027 collection at Times Square in New York City, US, May 16, 2026. REUTERS/Eduardo Munoz
A model presents a creation from the Gucci Cruise 2027 collection at Times Square in New York City, US, May 16, 2026. REUTERS/Eduardo Munoz

Famed Italian fashion house Gucci took over New York's iconic Times Square on Saturday for its second runway show led by creative director Demna.

Models walked down a wide runway set up in Manhattan, bordered by 7th Avenue and Broadway, while its famous billboards broadcast the images.

Guests were separated from the street by large black panels, while onlookers and tourists were able to enjoy the show live from the sidewalk as it was broadcast across screens in the famed neighborhood.

The Cruise collection show -- held outside the official fashion calendars -- is the second show presented by Georgian designer Demna, who goes by one name, AFP reported.

The 45-year-old took over Gucci in July after a decade at Balenciaga, charged with helping reverse falling sales.

As with his first show in Milan last February, Demna emphasized the sexiness and glamour that have made Gucci a success: satiny, shiny fabrics, leather, leopard prints, fur, high heels for the women and cinched waists for everyone.

The nods to the 1970s and 1980s were pronounced, as were the references to Tom Ford, who helmed the collections between 1994 and 2004 -- a period considered a golden age for the brand.

Model Cindy Crawford, former American football player Tom Brady, and media personality Paris Hilton walked the runway. Other guests included singer Mariah Carey, musician Shawn Mendes, rapper Stormzy and reality TV star Kim Kardashian.

French luxury group Kering, which owns Gucci, saw sales slide by six percent in the first quarter of this year, with the Italian fashion house still dragging down its performance.

"Our priority is to make Gucci unmissable again... In one second you must know it's Gucci -- and it doesn't mean covering the world with GG," the group's CEO Luca de Meo said in April.


Milan Fashion Week Says Will Ask Brands Not to Show Fur

Protestors hold signs reading "Ban fur" ahead of the Giorgio Armani womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on March 1, 2026. (AFP)
Protestors hold signs reading "Ban fur" ahead of the Giorgio Armani womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on March 1, 2026. (AFP)
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Milan Fashion Week Says Will Ask Brands Not to Show Fur

Protestors hold signs reading "Ban fur" ahead of the Giorgio Armani womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on March 1, 2026. (AFP)
Protestors hold signs reading "Ban fur" ahead of the Giorgio Armani womens's ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2026 collection fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan on March 1, 2026. (AFP)

Milan Fashion Week said Friday it would "invite" participating brands at its high-profile runway shows not to show fur, in a partial concession to animal rights activists following pressure.

The National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI), which organizes fashion week, has been under pressure from animal activists to ban fur at the shows -- something fashion weeks in London, New York and various others have already done.

But the guidelines published Friday fell short of activists' demands, making the request not to show fur voluntary.

"CNMI believes that the most effective approach does not consist in imposing bans... but in issuing a request not to present, during the Milan Fashion Week shows, clothing, accessories, or any other item made of fur," the body said.

The new guidelines, to come into effect starting in September, include the chamber not using fur in its communications.

According to the chamber, materials excluded from the guidelines include shearling, vintage fur and fur obtained "by indigenous communities through traditional subsistence hunting practices".

Most fashion names who show at Milan Fashion Week have already gone fur-free, including the Armani Group, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, but a major holdout has been Fendi, which began as a furrier.

In her first show for the brand, new Fendi designer Maria Grazia Chiuri showed a collection that included "remodeled" furs, or pieces from old furs reworked into new designs.

In March, anti-fur activists demonstrated during the women's shows, unfurling banners that said "Milan Fashion Week Go Fur-Free".

Animal activists noted that CNMI's new guidelines fell short of the flat-out bans on fur seen in other fashion weeks, but nevertheless called it progress.

"Without a fur-free policy like those in place at New York and London Fashion Weeks, there is no guarantee that cruelty will be excluded from Milan's runways, but we hope this anti-fur statement encourages greater use of next-generation biomaterials, which are both beautiful and responsible," said Emma Hakansson of Collective Fashion Justice.

The European Commission has yet to rule on a 2023 citizens' initiative that called on the EU to ban fur farms and the killing of animals such as mink, foxes, raccoon dogs or chinchillas solely for their pelts.

Activists cite the cruelty inherent in fur farming, in which the animals are crammed into tiny wire battery cages before being gassed or electrocuted.