Kenzo Finds Its Groove in a Playful, Nostalgic Turn at Paris Fashion Week 

Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)
Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)
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Kenzo Finds Its Groove in a Playful, Nostalgic Turn at Paris Fashion Week 

Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)
Models wear creations for the men's Kenzo Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection, in Paris, Friday, Jan. 24, 2025. (AP)

Kenzo brought an electrifying jolt to Paris Fashion Week with a collection that blended nostalgia, cultural exchange and sharp tailoring under the leadership of Nigo.

With the graffiti artist Futura as a collaborator, the collection offered a fresh take on the brand’s signature aesthetic, fusing archival motifs with urban edge. The creative partnership channeled decades of shared influences, layering Kenzo’s heritage with the raw energy of 1990s street culture.

Bold patterns and thoughtful craftsmanship defined the runway. Futura’s iconic atom logo appeared reimagined with Kenzo’s florals on bombers, wide-leg pants, and tailored jackets.

Accessories, inspired by everyday objects like shopping bags and bouquet wraps, played with Japanese calligraphy and nostalgic cultural tags, adding tactile depth to the collection. These pieces reflected the era of cross-cultural exchange between Tokyo and New York, a key theme throughout the show.

The collection unveiled on Friday also showcased archival references with a contemporary twist. Train motifs, a nod to Kenzo’s late 1990s designs, appeared on suits and outerwear, while refined paisleys were integrated into modern workwear.

Weathered denim and six-button jackets brought a touch of sophistication to the nostalgic energy, blending vintage charm with precise tailoring. The collection’s footwear — chunky loafers and revisited Mary Janes — added playful contrast, grounding the designs in an approachable yet avant-garde aesthetic.

The atmosphere in the venue echoed the creative energy on display, with notable guests from fashion and music worlds contributing to the buzz.



Valentino’s New Designer Showcases History and Drama at Couture Debut in Paris

 A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
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Valentino’s New Designer Showcases History and Drama at Couture Debut in Paris

 A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Paris, Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. (AP)

Alessandro Michele’s Valentino couture debut was the most anticipated ticket of Paris Couture Week, and the designer didn't disappoint with a lavish spectacle at the Palais Brongniart, a fittingly historic backdrop for his past-meets-present storytelling.

Known for his “more is more” aesthetic, Michele delivered a VIP-filled show on Wednesday brimming with historical reverence, theatricality, and his signature offbeat twists.

Michele, who previously spent nearly eight years redefining Gucci with his eclectic maximalism, has long drawn inspiration from history. It's an obsession that traces back to his childhood in Rome, where he would rummage through his mother’s closet, captivated by the textures of bygone eras.

His tenure at Gucci transformed the brand into a powerhouse of layered nostalgia and offbeat opulence, making his appointment at Valentino — a house steeped in aristocratic elegance — both a natural evolution and a challenge.

His arrival was a significant shift from Valentino's former designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was celebrated for his pared-down romanticism.

The opening look set the tone: a harlequin-patterned gown of enormous proportions, fusing the whimsy of the circus with regal splendor.

Full skirts billowed with 18th-century grandeur against a stark black runway, while ’70s-inspired ruffles added his distinctive vintage-inflected edge. A standout floral gown, evocative of Marie Antoinette, received the New Romantics treatment, a nod to the late ‘70s and early ’80s era that has long fascinated the designer.

Though the collection largely played to Michele’s strengths, with exuberance tempered by couture-level precision, some elements felt overdone. A polka dot jacket with an oversized bow veered into twee territory, an example of how his fondness for embellishment can sometimes tip into excess. Yet, the overall balance leaned toward refinement, with a relative restraint compared to his past work at Gucci.

Michele’s couture debut reaffirmed his reputation as a designer who finds beauty in historical excavation.