Grey and brutalist, showy and shimmering -- the stark contrasts of the Italian fashion capital of Milan fueled the creative mind of Bottega Veneta's Louise Trotter in her second collection for the brand.
The city's harsh aspects found expression in the armor-like coats that Trotter sent down the runway Saturday night at Milan Fashion Week, while its theatrical side burst forth from delightfully tactile creations made from recycled fiberglass that swayed and shimmered as models made their way down the runway.
The Fall/Winter collection for the brand known for its "intreccio" technique of woven leather was inspired by "what Milanese style meant to me and Bottega Veneta from my viewpoint," Trotter told journalists backstage after the show.
The brutalism of the city, whether in its architecture or its notoriously grey weather, juxtaposes with a more hidden "sensuality and seduction", she said.
That translated to the coats, long jackets and coat dresses with bold, exaggerated shoulders -- "like armor", Trotter said -- some of them with an accompanying brown leather belt that dangled, sword-like, from the waist.
As is fitting for Bottega Veneta, leather infused the collection for both men and women, here on shoulder patches, there on epaulets or collars.
One model was virtually swaddled in supple olive leather, her oversized bomber jacket with high collar paired with an asymmetrical matching leather skirt, with nubby leather flip-flops at her feet.
But the collection took a dramatic turn with the arrival of a series of over-the-top showstopping coats made from recycled fiberglass, a synthetic material introduced at Trotter's debut last September.
The costume-like poofs moved and shimmered under the lights of the former theater where the runway show was held, just steps from the La Scala opera, many of them paired with matching hats, in colors of electric blue, black and bubble-gum pink.
A sweater worn by a male model recalled a Harlequin theme with splotches of red and black against the white background of the shimmering, fur-like material.
"I wanted to express that joy, that theatric," said Trotter, saying the looks expressed the more showy side of Milan's residents, who "really dress up."
"I think it's quite unusual or rare today to find that. And I think it's dressing up for oneself and also for one's community. I think it's a sign of pride and respect."
Trotter's goal as a designer, she said, was to "bring joy and confidence to people" through clothing.
Backstage, rapper Lauryn Hill had on one of Trotter's glittering sweaters of fiberglass, in electric orange, accessorized with an oversized "intreccio" purse with fringe.
An entourage of assistants directed hand fans in Hill's direction to keep her cool, sending the fibers of the outrageous garment aflutter.
"It's got a life of its own," said one of them, with a smile.
