Soaring High: Indonesian Speed Climbers Race for Rare Olympic Gold

Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP
Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP
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Soaring High: Indonesian Speed Climbers Race for Rare Olympic Gold

Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP
Indonesian climbing athlete Nurul Iqamah takes part in a training session in Bekasi, West Java. BAY ISMOYO / AFP

Indonesian speed climber Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi checks her harness, her brow dripping with sweat and her breaths labored, gripping the hold and swinging her body upwards to scale a wall in mere seconds.
The 23-year-old is training for next month's Paris Olympics, where she hopes to add to Indonesia's meager tally of gold medals -- the country has only ever won eight, all in badminton, AFP said.
But in recent years the Southeast Asian archipelago has gained recognition as an unlikely force in speed climbing, smashing records and nabbing multiple medals at top international events.
Climbing -- combining three forms of the sport -- was first included at the Olympics in Tokyo in 2021. Paris 2024 will see speed climbing become a separate event for the first time.
Competitors scramble up a standardized 15-meter (50-foot) vertical route and the one who reaches the top in the fastest time, typically just a few seconds, wins.
"As it gets closer, I don't want to think about anything else," Desak, one of two Indonesian speed climbers to have so far qualified for Paris, told AFP after a training session at the national team's facility outside the capital Jakarta.
"I just focus on the Olympics."
Indonesian climbers have excelled in the speed format because their typically slight stature gives them speed and agility. Pure dedication and teamwork is also behind the success.
"If we keep bemoaning about our lack of height, we will never be able to compete," national wall-climbing coach Hendra Basir told AFP.
"So we focus on our advantage as small people. We have been blessed with agility."
Long process
Desak has been climbing since childhood and now has a chance to make her Olympic dream come true after winning gold in the women's speed event at a world championship in Switzerland last year.
Joining Desak in going for gold in the French capital will be Rahmad Adi Mulyono, 23, after he won a qualifier against another Indonesian to advance.
"At first of course I felt a burden, but as time goes by I have a nothing-to-lose attitude," he told AFP.

Both decided to focus on speed climbing instead of lead and boulder, the two other climbing disciplines featured in Tokyo.
"I am optimistic. What I first need to do is upgrade myself, focus, and shorten the time (to the top) every time I train," said Rahmad.
Hendra said the athletes had spent years training to make sure Indonesia, which has not generally excelled in global sport, has a chance of achieving Olympic gold.
"We have gone through a very long process from 2019, starting from qualification for the Tokyo Olympics, and not to mention the (pandemic) break," said the coach.
'Sliver of hope'
While speed climbing remains firmly behind football and badminton in terms of sporting attention at home, its popularity is growing.
But the local sports industry remains underdeveloped for speed climbing and other climbing disciplines, leaving athletes with often greater walls to climb.
"God willing there's a sliver of hope that the Indonesian team can compete to win gold medals at the Olympics, but indeed, the process to reach this point was incredibly hard," said Hendra.
There is optimism though that the promise shown in speed will translate to the walls of Paris.
Former world record holder Veddriq Leonardo could still qualify for the Games if he finishes well at a tournament in Hungary later this month.
"Of course we are hoping that speed climbing, as a debut sport at the Olympics, can give a surprise achievement," Indonesia's National Olympic Committee chairman Raja Sapta Oktohari told AFP.
"We have a world champion in this sport. I hope in the 2024 Paris Olympics, Indonesian athletes can score an achievement and a new history," he added, referring to Desak.
But the competition will be tough. Veddriq's world record of 4.90 seconds was beaten twice in April by the American Samuel Watson and is now 4.798 seconds.
Regardless of the pressure and weight of expectation, Desak is primed to give her all.
"I hope my dream to hear Indonesia Raya (national anthem) reverberate at the Olympics will come true," she said.
"My dream is to win a gold medal."



Nadal Says Not Sure he'll Play Singles after Winning in Doubles with Alcaraz

27 July 2024, France, Paris: Spanish tennis players Rafael Nadal (R) and Carlos Alcaraz celebrate after winning their men's doubles 1st round tennis match against Argentina's Maximo Gonzalez and Andres Molteni at Roland-Garros on the first day of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games in France. Photo: Marijan Murat/dpa
27 July 2024, France, Paris: Spanish tennis players Rafael Nadal (R) and Carlos Alcaraz celebrate after winning their men's doubles 1st round tennis match against Argentina's Maximo Gonzalez and Andres Molteni at Roland-Garros on the first day of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games in France. Photo: Marijan Murat/dpa
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Nadal Says Not Sure he'll Play Singles after Winning in Doubles with Alcaraz

27 July 2024, France, Paris: Spanish tennis players Rafael Nadal (R) and Carlos Alcaraz celebrate after winning their men's doubles 1st round tennis match against Argentina's Maximo Gonzalez and Andres Molteni at Roland-Garros on the first day of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games in France. Photo: Marijan Murat/dpa
27 July 2024, France, Paris: Spanish tennis players Rafael Nadal (R) and Carlos Alcaraz celebrate after winning their men's doubles 1st round tennis match against Argentina's Maximo Gonzalez and Andres Molteni at Roland-Garros on the first day of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games in France. Photo: Marijan Murat/dpa

Rafael Nadal is not sure whether he will compete in singles at the Paris Olympics, saying after he paired with Carlos Alcaraz to win their first-round doubles match Saturday night that he wants to “make the smartest decision possible to have the best chances to bring (a) medal back home.”
Nadal's first match in singles, against Hungary’s Marton Fucsovics, is scheduled for Sunday.
“Tomorrow, I don’t know what’s going to happen,” Nadal said Saturday. “I don’t know if I’m going to play or not.”
He said he wants to consult with his team before figuring out what to do.
Nadal and Alcaraz — Spain’s old-and-new pairing of tennis superstars — won the first match they’ve ever played together as a doubles team, eliminating Argentina’s Maximo Gonzalez and Andres Molteni 7-6 (4), 6-4.
According to The Associated Press, Nadal called it “amazing” and an “emotional moment.”
The 38-year-old Nadal has not made clear whether the Summer Games will be the last event of his storied career, although there’s been plenty of speculation it will be, given all of his recent injury issues — he wore white tape wrapped around his right thigh Saturday — and his connection to Roland Garros. That’s the clay-court facility being used for these Olympics and the site of the annual French Open, where he claimed a record 14 of his 22 Grand Slam titles.
Asked whether these Olympics could be his final outing before retirement, Nadal replied: “I never said that. I don’t know. I didn’t make any decision to say anything.”
Nadal’s participation in the 2024 Olympics actually began a night earlier, when he was a surprise torch bearer during the opening ceremony.
“I’m just enjoying these moments playing together with Carlos now. In doubles, (it’s) been an unforgettable day today — and for me, an unforgettable day yesterday,” Nadal said. “Enjoying every single moment, having the best experience possible.”
If Nadal, who won Olympic golds in singles at Beijing in 2008 and in doubles with Marc López at Rio de Janeiro in 2016, does play Fucsovics and wins, next up would be a second-round match against longtime rival Novak Djokovic.
“Playing him is like a final, really, for me in any tournament, particularly here, knowing what he has achieved, what he’s done, for our sport, particularly here in Roland Garros. His record speaks for itself,” Djokovic said after winning his first-rounder earlier Saturday. “I look forward to it. If we get to face each other, it’s going to be possibly the last time we get to face each other on a big stage. I’m sure that people will enjoy it. I’m looking forward to it.”
Neither Nadal nor Alcaraz, a 21-year-old coming off singles championships at the French Open in June and at Wimbledon two weeks ago, plays much doubles. There were hiccups Saturday against their sixth-seeded opponents, to be sure, including a 3-0 deficit in the second set, but the Spanish duo’s talent prevailed.
A reporter wanted to know from Alcaraz which of the two players is in charge out there.
“You should ask him,” Alcaraz said with a smile. “I mean, obviously, Rafa is. It’s easy playing with him. He has a really high level of energy. What he did it in the difficult moments of the match was unbelievable. And, obviously, I try to learn from him.”
If this outing in front of a packed and raucous crowd at Court Philippe Chatrier was any indication, the cheers for Nadal will be as loud as can be for as long as he remains in the Olympics brackets.
While he has played only sparingly over the past two seasons because of hip surgery and an abdominal muscle problem, and lost in the first round of this year’s French Open to eventual runner-up Alexander Zverev, Nadal looked just fine Saturday. Then again, doubles requires far less movement and stamina than singles, of course.
Still, Nadal’s movement appeared OK, and he showed off his tremendous volleying ability, including one back-to-the-net, over-the-shoulder, no-look winner in the first set. After the point, he wheeled and punched the air. Fans celebrated wildly.
Nadal frequently slapped palms with Alcaraz between points — whether won or lost — and occasionally patted his much-younger partner on the shoulder during pauses in the action.
When the match ended with a volley off Alcaraz’s racket, Nadal raised both fists. Alcaraz turned to his new partner and yelled, “Vamos!”