Couture Week Comes to Paris amid Riot Fears

The fashion world is on edge as haute couture week kicks off on Monday in Paris, which has seen nights of violent riots over the police killing of a teenager.
French label Celine canceled its menswear show -- scheduled outside the official calendar -- on Sunday due to the riots, with designer Hedi Slimane saying it was "inconsiderate" to hold a fashion show when Paris was "bereaved and bruised".
Hundreds have been arrested across the country as mostly young protesters have torched cars and attacked infrastructure following the death of 17-year-old Nahel M., who was shot dead when he tried to flee a traffic stop on Tuesday.
Violence appeared to be ebbing somewhat in and around the French capital over the weekend, and the haute couture shows -- celebrating the most expensive, tailor-made end of fashion -- were due to go ahead as planned, the French fashion federation told AFP on Sunday.
First up is Schiaparelli, with fashionistas wondering if it can beat the social media meltdown caused by last season's fake animal heads.
The heads, sported by the likes of Kylie Jenner, were another publicity coup for Schiaparelli artistic director Daniel Roseberry, who has overseen a revamp of the brand and attracted the likes of Lady Gaga and Beyonce as clients.
Animal activists seemed unsure what to think.
The US branch of PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) called the heads "fabulously innovative", while PETA's French branch said a thought should be spared for the silkworms and sheep "who have really suffered".
Couture week will see first-time appearances by the United States' Thom Browne and France's Charles de Vilmorin alongside regulars like Christian Dior.
De Vilmorin, just 26, will present for his own brand after a short-lived tenure as artistic director of Rochas.
"I'm super happy to have lived through all this and to do my first show," he told AFP in his apartment-workshop last week while finalizing the collection.
Fellow couturier Stephane Rolland is presenting his latest collection, dedicated to legendary singer Maria Callas, at the Opera Garnier.
It will be filmed by veteran French director Claude Lelouch for his next movie.
Rolland said it was vital to merge fashion and other art forms.
"It's very important in our profession. I find that from time to time it lacks a bit of refinement. Money is not everything," he told AFP.

H&M, the world's second-largest listed fashion retailer, said on Thursday it no longer expected to reach its full-year earnings margin goal, while reporting a lower-than-expected operating profit for the June-August period.

H&M has struggled to boost its profitability amid high inflation and stiff competition from its bigger Spanish rival Zara, owned by Inditex, and the rapid growth of cut-price online fast-fashion retailer Shein.

"At present we estimate that this year's operating margin will be lower than 10%," Chief Executive Daniel Erver said in a statement.

The accumulated margin stood 7.4% for the first three quarters.

The full-year operating margins for 2022 and 2023 were 3.2% and 6.2% respectively, and H&M had cautioned in June that factors such as materials costs and foreign currency had made the 2024 target more difficult to reach.

Couture Week Comes to Paris amid Riot Fears