Italy Antitrust Probes Armani, Dior over Alleged Exploitation of Workers

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
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Italy Antitrust Probes Armani, Dior over Alleged Exploitation of Workers

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Christian Dior store in Piazza Di Spagna (Spanish Square) in Rome, Italy December 19, 2020. REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo

Italy's competition authority said on Wednesday it had begun an investigation into luxury fashion groups Armani and Dior over the alleged exploitation of workers in their supply chain.
In June and April, Milan prosecutors ordered that several Chinese-owned firms in Italy - producing luxury goods for Dior and Armani - be placed under administration, accusing them of systematically abusing their employees.
The regulator alleged that Armani and Dior "emphasized the craftmanship and the excellence of their workmanship" while relying on workshops employing people on inadequate salaries, working long hours and in violation of health and safety rules.
The probe focused on some companies of the Armani Group and the LVMH-controlled Dior Group, and inspections were carried out at the companies on Tuesday, Reuters quoted the agency as saying.
"The (Armani and Dior) companies may have made untrue ethical and social responsibility claims, in particular with regard to working conditions and compliance with legality at their suppliers," the antitrust agency said.
They were placed under investigation "for possible unlawful conduct in the promotion and sale of articles and clothing accessories, in breach of the (Italian) Consumer Code," it said.
Armani and LVMH did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
Breaches of the consumer code are punishable with fines ranging from 5,000 euros ($5,456) to 10 million euros ($10.91 million).
The luxury industry's supply chain has come under increased scrutiny by consumers and investors in recent years. To reduce risks to their reputation, fashion labels have curbed the number of sub-contractors and brought production in-house.
Italy's antitrust agency also polices consumer rights and unfair commercial practices. Last year, it fined companies owned by fashion influencer Chiara Ferragni almost 1.1 million euros over misleading charity claims on a Ferragni-branded Christmas cake.



Prada Offers Savage, Instinctive Menswear during Milan Fashion Week

 A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Men's Fall / Winter 2025-2026 in Milan, Italy, on January 19, 2025 (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Men's Fall / Winter 2025-2026 in Milan, Italy, on January 19, 2025 (AFP)
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Prada Offers Savage, Instinctive Menswear during Milan Fashion Week

 A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Men's Fall / Winter 2025-2026 in Milan, Italy, on January 19, 2025 (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Men's Fall / Winter 2025-2026 in Milan, Italy, on January 19, 2025 (AFP)

Miuccia Prada and her co-creative director Raf Simons described the latest Prada menswear collaboration unveiled during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday as raw and cinematic.

While the Milan Fall-Winter 2025-2026 runway was full of faux fur collars, Prada went the usual step beyond and created primitive detailing in shearling that looked almost torn from the beast and set askew on outerwear lapels, or patchworked into garments.

“Maybe, it reads as savage, primitive cavemen. I think that our aim was to make it feel warm and human and instinctive, but also kind of beautifully domestic in a way,” Simons said backstage.

Collection hallmarks Cinematic references were broad and not specific to any film, director or even character type, Simons said. Western touches included scuffed cowboy boots and knitwear mimicking a wrangler’s shirt - without creating characters or caricatures.

The silhouette mixed skinny trousers, often in bright rock-and-roll satin, with more ample volumes like pajama tops or slightly ratty sweaters. Suits required no shirts, as the designers advocated instinctive dressing.

One look seemed to distill the collection to its boyish essence: Straight leg jeans with a knit top featuring striped detailing, worn with floral-stamped cowboy boots.

Fashion as meaning

The designers said the collection was meant to offer hope in difficult times, proffering humanity as a form of resistance to whatever may be oppressing.

“It’s a bit of an answer to what of course is happening. We have to resist with our instinct, with our humanity, with our passion, with our romance,” Prada said backstage. Good work, she said, is also a form of resistance.

The message contained in the collection “has to be optimistic by definition and in principle,” Prada said.

The Setting The ever-transforming showroom inside the Prada Foundation’s Deposito contemporary art space was sheathed in Art Noveau carpet, and the runway was set on raised metal scaffolding. Simons said it represented contrasts, decoration and a work-in-progress.

Star power Prada's front row hailed from across the globe and disciplines, including British actor and musician William Gao, arriving with British musician Olivia Hardy, US actor Keith Powers, South Korean actress Kim Tae-ri, Chinese table tennis player Ma Long and British actor Louis Patridge. A crowd of fans waited just beyond a barricade to cheer them all.