Hugo Boss May Push Back 2025 Targets as Luxury Sector Falters

The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
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Hugo Boss May Push Back 2025 Targets as Luxury Sector Falters

The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP

Hugo Boss may push back key sales and profit targets beyond 2025 when it reports its second-quarter results on Thursday, as investors watch for updates on trading and cost-cutting plans.
Shares in the company fell as much as 10% in July as it cut its full-year sales and earnings forecasts, citing weakening global consumer demand, especially in China and Britain, said Reuters.
It warned in March that its target of reaching 5 billion euros ($5.4 billion) in annual revenues in 2025 might be delayed, but said it still expected its margin on earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) to reach at least 12% next year.
"Besides comments on current trading, which will be closely watched by investors, we would not rule out an update on Hugo Boss' mid-term targets," said Felix Jonathan Dennl, analyst at Metzler Capital Markets in Frankfurt.
Some analysts, including Dennl, expect Hugo Boss to hit its mid-term sales target two to three years later than originally forecast, and to reach its mid-term EBIT margin goal after 2028.
"If Hugo Boss can't provide more visibility, the revenue and EBIT targets should be in doubt," Alexander Zienkowicz, senior analyst at Mwb Research said.
In an average of estimates last updated ahead of the company's preliminary results in mid-July, analysts had forecast sales of 4.65 billion euros and an operating profit of 519 million for 2025, corresponding to an EBIT margin of 11%.
Cost cuts are also going to be in focus, said Joerg Philipp Frey, analyst at Warburg Research. He highlighted the company's 21% jump in marketing spend and higher brick-and-mortar retail expenses in the second quarter from a year earlier, in contrast with its quarterly sales decline.
The upmarket fashion brand has been on an expansion drive, increasing marketing spend and opening 102 new points of sale, including own stores, "shop-in-shops" and outlets, in 2023. It is trying to stem a slowdown in sales growth which has contributed to the company's shares almost halving in value this year.
"To lift the share price, it will be important for Hugo Boss to demonstrate effective management of the issues at hand and a credible path to recovery," Zienkowicz said.
The luxury sector is grappling with weaker sales and pressure on margins as inflation-hit shoppers hold off from splashing out on designer fashion. A property slump and job insecurity in China has exacerbated the problem.
Earnings from luxury companies this quarter have demonstrated the strains that the sector is under with both LVMH and rival Kering falling short of forecasts.



Kering Posts 11% Drop in Q2 Sales, Sees Weak Second Half

The logo of luxury brand Gucci is seen in Tokyo on June 22, 2021. (AFP)
The logo of luxury brand Gucci is seen in Tokyo on June 22, 2021. (AFP)
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Kering Posts 11% Drop in Q2 Sales, Sees Weak Second Half

The logo of luxury brand Gucci is seen in Tokyo on June 22, 2021. (AFP)
The logo of luxury brand Gucci is seen in Tokyo on June 22, 2021. (AFP)

Kering reported a bigger-than-expected drop in second-quarter sales and forecast a weak second half, as the French luxury group struggles to revive its key label Gucci and worries grow about a prolonged downturn in high-end spending.

Sales at the French luxury group which owns labels Gucci, Boucheron and Balenciaga, fell to 4.5 billion euros ($4.9 billion), an 11% drop on an organic basis, which strips out currency effects and acquisitions.

The figure was below analyst expectations for a 9% drop, according to a Visible Alpha consensus.

It also said second-half operating income could fall by around 30%, following a 42% drop in the first half.

Sales at Gucci fell 19%, showing no improvement from the first quarter, and below analyst expectations for a 16% decline, according to a Visible Alpha consensus.

Kering has been revamping Gucci, the century-old Italian fashion house which accounts for half of group sales and two-thirds of profit.

Minimalist designs from new creative director Sabato de Sarno, which began trickling into stores earlier this year, are key to the design reset and push upmarket, in a bid to cater to wealthier clients who are more immune to economic headwinds.

Kering chief financial officer Armelle Poulou told reporters that the designs had been well received and the rollout was on track.

But the efforts have been complicated by a downturn in the global luxury market, while China's rebound - traditionally Gucci's most coveted market - was clouded by a property crisis and high youth unemployment as Western markets came down from a post-pandemic splurge.

Earnings from sector bellwether LVMH on Tuesday missed expectations as sales rose 1%, offering few signs that a pickup is around the corner, sending shares in luxury goods companies down on Wednesday. Kering traded at its lowest level since 2017.