Dolce & Gabbana Evoke the Dolce Vita during Milan Fashion Week

A model presents a creation by Dolce&Gabbana during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 18 January 2025. EPA/MATTEO CORNER
A model presents a creation by Dolce&Gabbana during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 18 January 2025. EPA/MATTEO CORNER
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Dolce & Gabbana Evoke the Dolce Vita during Milan Fashion Week

A model presents a creation by Dolce&Gabbana during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 18 January 2025. EPA/MATTEO CORNER
A model presents a creation by Dolce&Gabbana during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 18 January 2025. EPA/MATTEO CORNER

To bling, or not to bling is the eternal question at Dolce & Gabbana — and the designing duo had it both ways Saturday during the Milan Fashion Week menswear preview for the next cold weather season.
The elegant show invitation in winter-neutral Burgundy — suggested an understated collection and the runway silhouette was loose and effortless. Emblazoned with the word paparazzi, there was also a hint of look-at-me flash.
Evoking the Dolce Vita Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's collection for Fall/Winter 2025 evoked the Dolce Vita of easy men’s dressing with two moods: pulled-together daytime casual and red (or make that burgundy) carpet/evening formalwear.
Denim jeans provided the clean canvas for statement outerwear: star-sized faux fur jackets, a leather bomber-trench combo and a long leopard coat. Knitwear with loose cargo pants were easy to wear, functional and contemporary. Except for a bright sequined jacket, the colors palette was timelessly and reassuringly neutral.
The essence of the daywear was distilled in a dark tank top worn with loose tweed trousers and matching cap, and a tech-bro gray T-shirt secured with double-belted trousers.
For evening or formal events, elegant suiting incorporating cummerbunds, tasseled silk scarves and wide lapels were accented with crystal brooches, all the better to glisten as two risers of paparazzi snapped from the runway.
Trend Watch Watch for high-neck faux fur dickies, fastened with silken ribbons for extra warmth and luxury. Bow ties and brooches finishing suits — because why choose? Low-soled sneakers and mid-calf biker boots finish the looks. Capacious soft bags in high-end leathers suggest someplace to go. Key fobs on belt loops, reminders of home.
Paparazzi on the Inside, Fans on the Outside Risers of flashing paparazzi set the mood inside the designers’ Metropol theater.
Outside, Lucien Laviscount sprung like a gazelle over barriers and crossed tram tracks in front of the theater to greet cheering fans after the show. The “Emily in Paris” actor wore an elegant double-breasted pinstripe suit with gold neck chains, worthy of his stylish businessman character Alfie, as he signed autographs and snapped selfies.
Just as obliging but not quite as adventurous as the track-crossing Laviscount, South Korean actor Jung Hai-in, wearing a burgundy ensemble, and Thai actor Hirunkit Changkham, in black-and-white diagonally stripped knitwear and Bermuda shorts, also waved to screaming admirers before being driven away.
Front row guests also included James McAvoy, Levi Dylan and Rocco Ritchie.



Dolce & Gabbana Debut in Paris, Showing Italian Artistry on French Soil

The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
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Dolce & Gabbana Debut in Paris, Showing Italian Artistry on French Soil

The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann
The logo of Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana is seen at a branch office at Bahnhofstrasse shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland September 9, 2020. REUTERS/Arnd Wiegmann

For the first time in their 40-year history, the Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana are showcasing their work in the French fashion capital. Paris, the birthplace of haute couture, now finds itself hosting a powerful Italian counterpoint to French luxury fashion.
The message, as curator Florence Müller puts it, is direct: “Yes, Italy does it too.”
The landmark exhibition, Du Coeur a la Main (From the Heart to the Hand) running from Jan. 10 to March 31, is not only a love letter to Italian craftsmanship, but to the interconnectedness of fashion. “The story of couture is global,” Müller explained. “Embroidery, lace, brocade — they existed long before Parisian couture, in Italy, in India, and beyond.”
Spread across 1,200 square meters (1,400 square yards) of the newly refurbished Grand Palais, the exhibit showcases over 200 looks from the company's Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria collections and 300 handmade accessories, as well as objects like Sicilian ceramics. It includes 10 themed rooms that delve into the artistic roots of Dolce & Gabbana’s work.
Baroque grandeur defines the collection, unapologetically maximalist and layered with embellishments. Among the highlights is a gown inspired by Venice's Murano glass, encrusted with glass mosaics from Orsoni Venezia 1888, the glassmakers behind the golden mosaics of St. Mark's Basilica. Müller described it as “a sculpture on textile — pure craftsmanship elevated to art.”
Opera takes center stage. A black velvet gown softened by gold embellishments captures the drama of Bellini’s Norma, while a romantic blue dress for Verdi’s La Traviata flows like an aria, its tulle layers whispering love and loss. Meanwhile, icons of the brand, such as Sophia Loren and Naomi Campbell, are immortalized in giant paintings. Classical Italian opera and traditional Sicilian folk melodies provide the soundtrack, adding layers of drama.
But Du Coeur a la Main is not just about finished pieces. Five real seamstresses from Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan atelier work live during the exhibition, crafting bodices, bustiers and corsets before visitors’ eyes. “This seamstress is sewing lace to form a dress, while another is draping fabric by hand,” Müller said. “It’s extraordinary. This is not just fashion — it’s art.”
Sicily, Domenico Dolce’s birthplace, lies at the heart of the collection. Traditional Sicilian hand-painted carts, ceramics and lace-making techniques are woven into couture. Yet the exhibit also underscores fashion's often-ignored global influences.
“Luxury goods and artisans traveled more than we think,” Müller said. “The silk and brocades used at Versailles Palace came from India, and Italian artisans were hired to craft the Hall of Mirrors ... (Fashion) is constant exchanges and inspirations — this exhibit reveals what time forgot.”
Italian and French fashion have long been framed as rivals, with French conglomerates such as LVMH and Kering and Paris Fashion Week sometimes viewed as the pinnacle of the industry. But this exhibition challenges that hierarchy, showing that the two traditions are more interconnected than they are opposed. Both rely on les petites mains — "the little hands" — the artisans whose precision and passion elevate couture to art.
“The techniques may differ — Sicily’s lace traditions versus Paris’s tailoring — but the soul of couture remains the same: the human touch,” Müller said. The exhibit reveals the shared ingenuity of French and Italian ateliers, whether in a Sicilian workshop or a Parisian salon.
Even beyond couture, the exhibit highlights the breadth of “Made in Italy.” Everyday items like Smeg refrigerators and coffee presses given a D&G reworking reflect the ethos of Italian craftsmanship, transforming functional objects into canvases for artistry.
“Fashion is art. It’s meant to inspire, to dazzle, to make us dream. Whether you wear it once or never, its value is in its beauty, not its practicality,” Müller said.
When asked about hyperbole of the dazzling gowns — many of which seem impossible to wear on the street — she replies with a smile: “So what?”