Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean returned to the Milan runway on Saturday after a three-year absence with a collection produced with artisans in Bhutan and an appeal for more political support for the withering class of artisans that gives luxury fashion its edge.
“I said I would come back when I had something to say,” Jean said backstage.
Jean has long supported global artisans in her collections combining Italian tailoring with textiles, artistic details and garments sourced from traditional artisans in order to help safeguard their cultural heritage.
Now, she says “Italian craftsmanship is dying out,” as fewer young people want to take up the trades.
To help preserve artisans, Jean called on Italian lawmakers to give truly fine craftsmanship the same fiscal breaks recently bestowed on artworks. She said this would encourage more customers to invest in pieces that can take a year to complete, like the traditional ankle-length dress from Bhutan called a kira that she wore on the runway.
The break would mean the consumer pays less value-added tax, while ensuring artisans are paid the same.
“We can’t pay them less because the artisans are already not being paid much,” Jean said, as she put finishing touches on runway models backstage. “Otherwise we will see this craftsmanship only in museums. If we don’t wear it, it is useless.”
Bhutan craftsmanship
Artisans from Bhutan worked with Jean on pieces including traditional handwoven tego jackets worn over a silk printed dress, an elaborately embroidered skirt made from nettle fiber, embroidered skirts paired with a rugby shirt and a silken dress with an beaded panel depicting a village scene.
Jean’s front-row VIPs were the artisans she worked with, dressed in traditional garb.
Jean made her Milan runway debut in 2013 in the Armani Theater, a guest of Giorgio Armani. She paid homage to the late designer in her runway show by unfurling the T-shirt she wore for that premiere reading: “Grazie, Mr. Armani,” signed “Stella.”
“We cannot be here without paying a tribute, which is also a sign of respect to someone to whom I am not alone in owing a debt,” she said.
“Italian fashion became the most important in the world, thanks to this gentleman.”
