Armani, YNAP Sign Deal to Integrate Online and Store Networks

A deliveryman is seen silhouetted in front of a Giorgio Armani store at the Wangfujing shopping street, in Beijing, China February 20, 2020. (Reuters)
A deliveryman is seen silhouetted in front of a Giorgio Armani store at the Wangfujing shopping street, in Beijing, China February 20, 2020. (Reuters)
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Armani, YNAP Sign Deal to Integrate Online and Store Networks

A deliveryman is seen silhouetted in front of a Giorgio Armani store at the Wangfujing shopping street, in Beijing, China February 20, 2020. (Reuters)
A deliveryman is seen silhouetted in front of a Giorgio Armani store at the Wangfujing shopping street, in Beijing, China February 20, 2020. (Reuters)

Italian fashion house Giorgio Armani has struck a deal with online retailer Yoox Net-a-Porter to better integrate the luxury group’s e-commerce site with its network of physical stores, the two companies said on Wednesday.

The two groups have cooperated for 20 years and Armani’s main online store, Armani.com, was designed and is already managed by YNAP, now owned by Cartier maker Richemont.

The new “Next Era” partnership, which runs until 2025, will offer Armani customers access to all available products on online and offline channels, and full integration is expected in 2022.

“An additional benefit is the reduction of waste...it helps avoid ‘false sold-outs’ and eliminates product being left unsold due to siloed stock inventories in separate locations,” YNAP President and CEO Federico Marchetti told Reuters.

Luxury brands have been late to embrace e-commerce, and the digital channel accounted for just 12% of sales last year but is expected to rise to 29-30% by 2025, according to consultancy Bain.

The coronavirus pandemic, which forced brands to shut shops and idle manufacturing sites, has accelerated efforts by high-end houses to increase and improve their online distribution channel alongside brick-and-mortar stores in a so-called “phygital” strategy.

Armani said physical shops would continue to play a vital role for luxury sales but that a majority of customers were now first looking at products online before trying them on and buying them in stores - so the two channels could strengthen each other.



Italian Prosecutors Probe Supply Chain of Around a Dozen Fashion Brands

This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district,  Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district, Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
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Italian Prosecutors Probe Supply Chain of Around a Dozen Fashion Brands

This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district,  Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district, Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)

Prosecutors in Milan are investigating the supply chain of around a dozen more fashion brands, a person with knowledge of the matter said, after a unit of France's LVMH in Italy was placed under court administration in a worker exploitation probe.
On Monday, a Milan court appointed a commissioner to run an LVMH-owned maker of Dior-branded handbags after an investigation into four of its suppliers based in the surroundings of Italy's fashion capital uncovered illegal working conditions for staff.
On-site inspections and checks on electricity usage data led prosecutors to allege workers were employed for extended hours, working often into the night and during holidays. Some of the staff slept where they worked, had no regular contracts, with two having illegally immigrated into Italy.
This is the third such decision this year by the Milan court in charge of pre-emptive measures, which in April took similar steps in relation to a company owned by Giorgio Armani due to accusations the fashion group was "culpably failing" to properly oversee its suppliers. Armani Group said at the time it had always sought to "minimize abuses in the supply chain".
LVMH on Monday declined to comment on the court's decision.
Milan prosecutors and Italian police are investigating further small manufacturers that supply around a dozen other brands, the person told Reuters, declining to provide additional details because the information is confidential.
The appointment of a special commissioner is intended to give the fashion brands' subsidiaries time to fix problems in their supply chain while continuing to operate.
Neither LVMH nor Armani are under investigation, while the suppliers targeted by the probe face accusations of worker exploitation, copies of the court decisions seen by Reuters showed.
'MADE IN ITALY'
Milan prosecutors have been investigating for the past decade recruitment firms that allegedly illegally employed workers, evading taxes, as well as welfare and pension contributions, to slash the cost of the services they supplied.
The probes traditionally targeted sectors such as logistics, transportation and cleaning services, where workers were supplied by firms that sprung up and were wound down every couple of years.
The focus then shifted onto the fashion sector, where probes have highlighted similar problems this year.
Italy accounts for 50% to 55% of the global luxury goods production, consultancy Bain calculated, with thousands of small manufacturers supplying big brands and allowing them to sport the prized 'Made in Italy' label on their goods.
The latest Milan investigation has shown a small manufacturer was able to charge Dior as little as 53 euros ($57) to make a handbag, which the fashion house then sold in shops at 2,600 euros.
Under Italian law, brands outsourcing production are responsible for carrying out adequate checks on suppliers.
In the past, the measures taken by Italian magistrates in relation to worker exploitation probes concerned only the suppliers who mistreated workers.
However, Milan prosecutors have been able to make use of a provision in the law that was originally designed to deal with companies infiltrated by the Mob.
These companies would be placed under court, or judicial, administration through the appointment of special commissioners to run them.