Back on The Catwalk: Live Shows Return at London Fashion Week

The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
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Back on The Catwalk: Live Shows Return at London Fashion Week

The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File

Catwalk shows resume at London Fashion Week on Friday, after previous editions of the landmark industry event were forced online by the coronavirus pandemic.

The sight of models and audiences together again will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after lifting most restrictions in July.

A total of 28 shows are planned over five days, featuring 131 brands, including those from well-established designers such as Britain's Edward Crutchley and Serbia's Roksanda.

But there are two notable absentees: former Spice Girl turned fashion designer Victoria Beckham, and the luxury brand Burberry.

Last September, Burberry presented its spring-summer 2021 collection with a show on the streaming platform Twitch, filmed in the middle of a forest and broadcast live.

Some designers this time round are preferring to present their latest creations by appointment only, or via videos on the Fashion Week platform.

In February, London Fashion Week was held entirely online, as the country was deep into a mid-winter virus lockdown.

The London Fashion Council (LFC) said the September shows "mark the long-awaited cultural reopening of London and brings back the global fashion industry to the UK".

The event -- one of the big four international fashion weeks alongside Paris, New York and Milan -- has previously been targeted by climate change campaigners.

Direct action groups such as Extinction Rebellion have denounced what they see as the exploitative practices of "fast fashion" and the environmental costs of production.

The LFC promised the event would partly focus on "the actions people and the industry can take to act responsibly to become changemakers and create a better world".

- Bounce back -

Among the emerging talents this year is London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka, who is presenting her first ever show on Friday.

A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school in London, the 27-year-old designer won the LVMH 2021 prize for young talent last week.

Following on from New York and preceding Milan, London Fashion Week is dedicated to spring-summer 2022 collections and is intended to be "gender neutral".

The British fashion industry, which employed around 890,000 people in 2019, is hoping to bounce back after suffering a slump during the global health crisis.

According to data from Oxford Economics for the Creative Industries Federation and Creative England, the sector could recover faster than the UK economy as a whole.

It estimated growth of more than 25 percent by 2025, which would contribute some £132.1 billion ($180 billion, 153 billion euros) to the UK economy -- more than £28 billion more than in 2020.

In July, Burberry announced that its first quarter sales had returned to pre-pandemic levels. However, sales in Europe continued to suffer from the lack of tourists.

Last week, the London-based French designer Roland Mouret told the Financial Times it could take his brand five years to fully recover from the impact of the pandemic.



Uniqlo Operator Posts Higher Q1 Profit Despite Sluggish China Results

(FILES) This general view shows the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024 (Photo by Richard A. Brooks / AFP)
(FILES) This general view shows the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024 (Photo by Richard A. Brooks / AFP)
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Uniqlo Operator Posts Higher Q1 Profit Despite Sluggish China Results

(FILES) This general view shows the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024 (Photo by Richard A. Brooks / AFP)
(FILES) This general view shows the latest flagship store to open by Fast Retailing clothing brand Uniqlo, in the Shinjuku district of central Tokyo on November 14, 2024 (Photo by Richard A. Brooks / AFP)

The operator of the Uniqlo global clothing chain reported first quarter results on Thursday that trailed analyst forecasts as a sharp decline in profit in China overshadowed strong sales in its home market of Japan, Reuters reported.

Fast Retailing said operating profit rose 7.4% to 157.6 billion yen ($996.84 million) in the three months through November from a year earlier. That was slightly below a LSEG consensus forecast of 160 billion yen drawn from six analysts.

Fast Retailing maintained its full-year operating profit forecast of 530 billion yen, on course for a fourth year of record earnings.

Known for inexpensive, durable fleeces and cotton shirts, Fast Retailing has long been regarded as a bellwether for consumer spending in Japan and more recently China, where it has more than 900 Uniqlo stores on the mainland.

Domestic sales have gotten a boost from a surge in duty-free shopping amid a tourism boom in Japan fueled by a weak yen.
But sales growth has cooled in China, prompting the company to scale back store openings and adopt a scrap-and-build strategy to turn around underperforming locations with redesigned stores.

Improved profit margins and international brand awareness helped drive the previous year's record results. But the company remains vulnerable to change in weather and fashion tastes.

Japanese sales were boosted by cold weather in December that increased demand for thermals, but in China, unseasonably warm temperatures resulted in flat sales in October and November, the company said.

Results were also strong in North America and Europe where Fast Retailing is mounting an aggressive expansion strategy to fulfil its aim to become the world's No. 1 clothing brand. In the southern United States, it opened five Uniqlo stores in Texas in October alone.
In its home market, it has also become a pacesetter for wages in the service industry.

Keen to retain good workers, Fast Retailing said on Wednesday it will institute an aggressive increase in employee pay in Japan - one that follows on from a hike in 2023 that helped shake up the nation's long moribund wage outlook.

Wages for full-time headquarters and sales staff will rise by as much as 11% from March, while annual salaries for new employees will increase by about 10%, the company said.