Back on The Catwalk: Live Shows Return at London Fashion Week

The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
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Back on The Catwalk: Live Shows Return at London Fashion Week

The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File
The shows will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after the lifting of most Covid restrictions Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS AFP/File

Catwalk shows resume at London Fashion Week on Friday, after previous editions of the landmark industry event were forced online by the coronavirus pandemic.

The sight of models and audiences together again will be a welcome sight for a country hoping to bounce back after lifting most restrictions in July.

A total of 28 shows are planned over five days, featuring 131 brands, including those from well-established designers such as Britain's Edward Crutchley and Serbia's Roksanda.

But there are two notable absentees: former Spice Girl turned fashion designer Victoria Beckham, and the luxury brand Burberry.

Last September, Burberry presented its spring-summer 2021 collection with a show on the streaming platform Twitch, filmed in the middle of a forest and broadcast live.

Some designers this time round are preferring to present their latest creations by appointment only, or via videos on the Fashion Week platform.

In February, London Fashion Week was held entirely online, as the country was deep into a mid-winter virus lockdown.

The London Fashion Council (LFC) said the September shows "mark the long-awaited cultural reopening of London and brings back the global fashion industry to the UK".

The event -- one of the big four international fashion weeks alongside Paris, New York and Milan -- has previously been targeted by climate change campaigners.

Direct action groups such as Extinction Rebellion have denounced what they see as the exploitative practices of "fast fashion" and the environmental costs of production.

The LFC promised the event would partly focus on "the actions people and the industry can take to act responsibly to become changemakers and create a better world".

- Bounce back -

Among the emerging talents this year is London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka, who is presenting her first ever show on Friday.

A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school in London, the 27-year-old designer won the LVMH 2021 prize for young talent last week.

Following on from New York and preceding Milan, London Fashion Week is dedicated to spring-summer 2022 collections and is intended to be "gender neutral".

The British fashion industry, which employed around 890,000 people in 2019, is hoping to bounce back after suffering a slump during the global health crisis.

According to data from Oxford Economics for the Creative Industries Federation and Creative England, the sector could recover faster than the UK economy as a whole.

It estimated growth of more than 25 percent by 2025, which would contribute some £132.1 billion ($180 billion, 153 billion euros) to the UK economy -- more than £28 billion more than in 2020.

In July, Burberry announced that its first quarter sales had returned to pre-pandemic levels. However, sales in Europe continued to suffer from the lack of tourists.

Last week, the London-based French designer Roland Mouret told the Financial Times it could take his brand five years to fully recover from the impact of the pandemic.



France's Christian Lacroix Label Heads for Spanish Ownership

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
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France's Christian Lacroix Label Heads for Spanish Ownership

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)
Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group. (AFP)

The Spanish fashion group Sociedad Textil Lonia (STL) announced Tuesday it had reached an agreement to buy France's Christian Lacroix label, hoping to return the once-mighty brand to its former glory.

The deal to acquire Lacroix from US-based Falic group, which specializes in duty-free retail, was for an undisclosed amount in a "private transaction", STL said.

"By acquiring Maison Lacroix, with its treasure of archives and rich history of French haute couture, STL expands its brand portfolio, strengthening its international presence in the world of high fashion," STL stated in a press release.

"We will do everything we can to ensure that the unique talent of its creator and his invaluable contribution to the world of fashion reach their full potential," the group added.

Christian Lacroix was created in 1987 by the eponymous designer, with the support of luxury giant LVMH, which sold it in 2005 to Falic Group.

In 2009, following financial difficulties, the brand implemented a court-ordered recovery plan that resulted in around 100 job cuts and the discontinuation of haute couture operations.

Lacroix, now aged 73, left the group in 2010.

Having spent decades dressing celebrities, he turned to working for ballet and opera productions, as well as collaborating with other labels such as Dries Van Noten.

"The Spanish family that owns STL had the elegance to contact me ahead of the official announcement about the acquisition of the Christian Lacroix name and archives," he told Vogue Business on Tuesday. "We will probably meet soon in an informal way."

Founded in Spain in 1997, STL is a fashion company behind Spanish ready-to-wear brand Purificacion Garcia and the label of Venezuelan-American designer Carolina Herrera, employing 2,500 people and operating 600 stores worldwide, according to its website.