"I am waiting here at Maidan Square to take photos of the Russian tanks," a journalist from New Delhi told me as he gestures towards the empty square in the Ukrainian capital Kyiv.
The young reporter says he is taking advantage of the calm in Kyiv amid news of the imminent arrival of Russian tanks, the possibility of Belarus joining the battle and rumors that chemical weapons could be used against the capital.
The nights in Kyiv are long. Tensions and fear begin to emerge as early as 6 pm. They can be seen in the silence of armed policemen, who during the day had a more cheerful demeanor. The news coming in is bleak. The "great battle" to storm or besiege Kyiv is imminent.
In stark contrast, the days in the capital appear less dreary. They start with the removal of the snow after a relatively calm night, which was interrupted with intermittent artillery fire and the arrival of supplies in trains and military truck convoys. Dozens of trucks and several trains pass through the capital. They can be seen on the main roads as they bring in survival essentials and perhaps military gear for the army.
Curfew is lifted in the morning and life returns to the streets. My taxi arrives to take me across to the other side of Kyiv. He drives a Russian-made car and speaks very little English. He resorts to Ukrainian and gestures to explain to me to expect traffic.
Hundreds of cars are waiting their turn to cross police checkpoints. Bridges separate the eastern and western parts of Kyiv. A few police members can be seen manning the bridge we are crossing. Below it, you can see the improvised fortifications. They are mostly made up of sand bags and cement blocks that can protect the fighters from shelling. They are unlikely, however, to withstand attacks by a regular army.
The general atmosphere on the road is still relaxed. Everyone sticks to the speed limit. The sun is shining, but that does not reflect the reality of the icy temperatures. Drivers remain huddled in their vehicles, except for one youth who opted for a scooter to zip through traffic.
We arrive in the western part of Kyiv that houses government offices, main companies and major shopping districts. The streets here are noticeably quieter than the residential areas surrounding the central part of the city. Few pedestrians and cars are on the streets and many fortifications have been set up. The army and police are deployed at nearly every corner. One soldier is usually deployed to one position. They usually do not speak to pedestrians, but their presence signals that other troops are nearby.
Maidan or Independence Square is Kyiv's most famous landmark. It was witness to the 2014 revolution that changed Ukraine. It was here also where the leaders of the Orange Revolution stood.
Today, the square is surrounded on all sides by the army and cement barriers. Checkpoints have been set up to inspect the identity of drivers. Metal barriers have been set up to impede the movement of tanks, but not civilians.
All shops at Maidan Square have been shut, except for a grocery store. Dozens of people have clamored to buy whatever food is available. Out in the cold, journalists gather and meet at a nearby hotel.
The journalist from New Delhi arrived here two weeks ago. He had headed to Lviv to cover the refugee situation and later returned to Kyiv as new began to emerge that it will soon be besieged or stormed. "Boredom has started to set," he told me. "Perhaps it's not boredom. It's probably anxiety and nerves," he added, which is most likely the case.
Two soldiers stand outside the Foreign Ministry near muddy SUVs. "No official or employee is here," they said after they were asked if anyone could give us official information. "They have all moved to safe places," they added, but the muddy vehicles and the wary soldiers tells us that the building is not as empty as it seems.
At 2 pm, a dog runs across the street followed by a man and a woman. Other than them, the streets are empty. From here on out, movement on the street will be practically nonexistent. Even the hotel employees refuse to leave the building after 5 pm.
Services in Kyiv continue to run as usual. Electricity and water are provided around the clock. The roads remain spotlessly clean. Telephone services are working normally and so is the internet. When the night comes, the mood shifts. The lights at Maidan Square are lit up and only then can you truly understand the meaning of "ghost town". No one but soldiers can be seen outside.
The news coming in do not bode well. The sound of artillery fire intensifies at night. The ringing of sirens can also be heard. The war is coming closer. Underground, intense preparations are underway for the great battle, which could be imminent.
