Dior Channels Rebellious Women at Paris Fashion Week

A model presents a creation from Christian Dior Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on February 28, 2023. (AFP)
A model presents a creation from Christian Dior Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on February 28, 2023. (AFP)
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Dior Channels Rebellious Women at Paris Fashion Week

A model presents a creation from Christian Dior Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on February 28, 2023. (AFP)
A model presents a creation from Christian Dior Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on February 28, 2023. (AFP)

After Milan, global fashion's spotlight shifted to the final stretch of ready-to-wear shows in Paris on Tuesday, as the industry looks to the future with all the final fall trends.

But displays in the French capital will also revisit the past this week, with homages to recently deceased designers Vivienne Westwood and Paco Rabanne.

Here are some highlights of Tuesday's fall-winter 2023-2024 collections, including Dior:

Dior’s rebels

A surreal and colorful organic world awaited guests inside Paris' Tuileries gardens.

A spectacular Dior installation suggestive of a giant octopus spanned the length and breadth of the runway, its color-rich fabric tentacles gleaming with thousands of tiny lights. It was the work of Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, who wanted to explore how organic form interacted with the "feminine realm of artisanal savoir-faire."

It made for a dazzling backdrop especially given the flurry of paparazzi flashes snapping guests including model Elle Macpherson, K-pop star Jisoo and actresses Maisie Williams and Charlize Theron.

If the decor seemed futuristic, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri used the past as a touchstone in the clothes, resulting in less exuberance — but no less flair.

Three women -- the house founder’s sister Catherine Dior, a French resistance hero, as well as French singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco, each described as "rebellious, at once strong and fragile" -- were muses in this collection. It channeled the 1950s, Christian Dior’s heyday.

A vintage air was evoked in a faded black leather menswear coat, crumpled houndstooth skirt and wrinkled woolen socks.

Elsewhere, sweaters and skirts sported extra volume in the shoulders or hips in a nod to the thicker fabrics of the post-war period. Stand out pieces included a black textured skirt hung heavily with thousands of embellished flowers that cut a fine androgynous figure below a white shirt and tie. While mottled fabric featured a gleaming metallic thread sewn into it, revealing the skills of Dior’s atelier.

Chiuri's empowering styles impressed Theron, who told The AP: "She loves women. And in loving women she understands that a woman is feminine but also masculine. We’re vulnerable and we’re strong. We’re contradictions. We’re a little bit of everything, and I love that she has that wisdom."

Mame Kurogouchi, past and future

The Japanese ready-to-wear brand of Mame Kurogouchi delves edgily between past and present, mixing traditional dressmaking with new technologies.

This was on full display at fall’s minimalist take on the 80s — as far as a decade that exuberant can be minimalist.

A gray pantsuit with crisp clean lines had a futuristic feel with a diagonal dynamic. A black scarf that gripped the neck like a hand tugged down the shoulder, complementing a black space age fanny pack that evoked a cummerbund.

A pared down color palette created a sanitized feel that worked nicely on the 80s references — broad, flat apron silhouettes, hoods and thickly textured top-heavy ensembles.



Italian Prosecutors Probe Supply Chain of Around a Dozen Fashion Brands

This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district,  Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district, Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
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Italian Prosecutors Probe Supply Chain of Around a Dozen Fashion Brands

This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district,  Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)
This photograph shows Milan's skyline with the Unicredit Tower (CL) next to "Bosco Verticale" (Vertical Forest) residential tower (C), Unipol Tower (2R) at Porta Nuova district, Milan, on June 6, 2024. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)

Prosecutors in Milan are investigating the supply chain of around a dozen more fashion brands, a person with knowledge of the matter said, after a unit of France's LVMH in Italy was placed under court administration in a worker exploitation probe.
On Monday, a Milan court appointed a commissioner to run an LVMH-owned maker of Dior-branded handbags after an investigation into four of its suppliers based in the surroundings of Italy's fashion capital uncovered illegal working conditions for staff.
On-site inspections and checks on electricity usage data led prosecutors to allege workers were employed for extended hours, working often into the night and during holidays. Some of the staff slept where they worked, had no regular contracts, with two having illegally immigrated into Italy.
This is the third such decision this year by the Milan court in charge of pre-emptive measures, which in April took similar steps in relation to a company owned by Giorgio Armani due to accusations the fashion group was "culpably failing" to properly oversee its suppliers. Armani Group said at the time it had always sought to "minimize abuses in the supply chain".
LVMH on Monday declined to comment on the court's decision.
Milan prosecutors and Italian police are investigating further small manufacturers that supply around a dozen other brands, the person told Reuters, declining to provide additional details because the information is confidential.
The appointment of a special commissioner is intended to give the fashion brands' subsidiaries time to fix problems in their supply chain while continuing to operate.
Neither LVMH nor Armani are under investigation, while the suppliers targeted by the probe face accusations of worker exploitation, copies of the court decisions seen by Reuters showed.
'MADE IN ITALY'
Milan prosecutors have been investigating for the past decade recruitment firms that allegedly illegally employed workers, evading taxes, as well as welfare and pension contributions, to slash the cost of the services they supplied.
The probes traditionally targeted sectors such as logistics, transportation and cleaning services, where workers were supplied by firms that sprung up and were wound down every couple of years.
The focus then shifted onto the fashion sector, where probes have highlighted similar problems this year.
Italy accounts for 50% to 55% of the global luxury goods production, consultancy Bain calculated, with thousands of small manufacturers supplying big brands and allowing them to sport the prized 'Made in Italy' label on their goods.
The latest Milan investigation has shown a small manufacturer was able to charge Dior as little as 53 euros ($57) to make a handbag, which the fashion house then sold in shops at 2,600 euros.
Under Italian law, brands outsourcing production are responsible for carrying out adequate checks on suppliers.
In the past, the measures taken by Italian magistrates in relation to worker exploitation probes concerned only the suppliers who mistreated workers.
However, Milan prosecutors have been able to make use of a provision in the law that was originally designed to deal with companies infiltrated by the Mob.
These companies would be placed under court, or judicial, administration through the appointment of special commissioners to run them.