Britain’s Next Sees Lower Clothing Inflation, Shares Dip on Cautious Outlook

 Signage on the exterior of a Next clothing retail store is seen in London, Britain, March 25, 2023. REUTERS/Toby Melville
Signage on the exterior of a Next clothing retail store is seen in London, Britain, March 25, 2023. REUTERS/Toby Melville
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Britain’s Next Sees Lower Clothing Inflation, Shares Dip on Cautious Outlook

 Signage on the exterior of a Next clothing retail store is seen in London, Britain, March 25, 2023. REUTERS/Toby Melville
Signage on the exterior of a Next clothing retail store is seen in London, Britain, March 25, 2023. REUTERS/Toby Melville

British fashion retailer Next (NXT.L) reported a better-than-expected 5.7% rise in annual profit on Wednesday and said it would not need to increase prices by as much as previously thought.

However, it still expects higher spending on wages, energy and technology to reduce its profit this year, and the retailer's shares were down 6% in morning trading after it retained its cautious outlook.

Next, which trades from about 500 stores and online and is often considered a good barometer of how British consumers are faring, said inflationary pressures were expected to ease as freight costs drop and the cost of goods improves, Reuters reported.

The company has shown more resilience than most to the cost-of living crisis in Britain and is considered by analysts to be one of the best run retailers in the country. Its shares had been up 16% this year prior to Wednesday's update.

It now expects 7% like-for-like price inflation in the spring-summer season and 3% in autumn-winter - down from its previous forecast of 8% and 6%, respectively.

That reflected a significant drop in container freight costs and improving factory gate prices - the price at which it purchases goods - due to increased factory capacity and efforts to move production to lower priced sources of supply.

"We still anticipate we'll be moving production out of China and into other regions like Bangladesh, India, South East Asia," CEO Simon Wolfson told Reuters.

"But if I look at the things that are moving the dial, it's more within those territories, finding new sources of supply rather than moving countries."

Next's improved price outlook fits with a Bank of England forecast for inflation to fall from its 10.4% annual rate in February to below 4% by the end of 2023.

Next made a pretax profit of 870.4 million pounds ($1.07 billion) in the year to January 2023, up from 823.1 million pounds the year before and above its 860 million pound guidance.

Sales of items sold at full price rose 6.9% in 2022-23, with total sales up 8.4% to 5.15 billion pounds.

For 2023-24, Next kept its forecast for a 1.5% decline in full-price sales and profit of 795 million pounds.

It expects its sales performance in the first half of the year to be weaker than in the second half.

In the first half last year, unusually warm summer weather coincided with the release of pent-up demand for events after the pandemic.

In the first eight weeks of its new financial year, full-price sales were down 2.0%, in line with its expectations.

Wolfson said he did not think the downturn in the UK economy would be long lasting and anticipated a strong recovery in 2024.



80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
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80-year-old LL Bean Staple Finds New Audience as Trendy Bag

Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)
Gracie Wiener poses with some of her tote bags in Washington Square Park in New York, Wednesday, July 17, 2024, (AP Photo/Pamela Smith)

L.L. Bean created it 80 years ago to haul heavy blocks of ice. Now it's a must-have summer fashion accessory, The Associated Press reported.

The simple, sturdy canvas bag called the Boat and Tote is having an extended moment 80 years after its introduction, thanks to a social media trend in which they're monogrammed with ironic or flashy phrases.

New Yorker Gracie Wiener helped get it started by ordering her humble bags from L.L. Bean monogrammed with “Psycho” and then “Prada,” the pricey Italian luxury brand, instead of just her name or initials, and posting about them on Instagram. Then others began showcasing their own unique bags on TikTok.

Soon, it wasn’t enough to have a bag monogrammed with “Schlepper,” “HOT MESS,” “slayyyy” or “cool mom.” Customers began testing the limits of the human censors in L.L. Bean’s monogram department, which bans profanity “or other objectionable words or phrases,” with more provocative wording like “Bite me,” “Dum Blonde” and “Ambitchous.”

Social media fueled the surge, just as it did for Stanley’s tumblers and Trader Joe’s $2.99 canvas bags, which were once selling on eBay for $200, said Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana, which tracks consumer spending and trends.
The tote’s revival came at a time when price-conscious consumers were forgoing expensive handbags, sales of which have weakened, and L.L. Bean’s bag fit the bill as a functional item that’s trendy precisely because it’s not trendy, she said. L.L. Bean's regular bags top out at about $55, though some fancier versions cost upward of $100.
“There’s a trend toward the utilitarian, the simple things and more accessible price points,” she said, and the customization added to the appeal: “Status items don’t have to be designer price points.”

L.L. Bean’s tote was first advertised in a catalog as Bean’s Ice Carrier in 1944 during World War II, when ice chests were common. Then they disappeared before being reintroduced in 1965 as the Boat and Tote.

These days, they’re still made in Maine and are still capable of hauling 500 pounds of ice, but they are far more likely to carry laptops, headphones, groceries, books, beach gear, travel essentials and other common items.

Those snarky, pop-oriented phrases transformed them into a sassy essential and helped them spread beyond Maine, Massachusetts’ Cape Cod and other New England enclaves to places like Los Angeles and New York City, where fashionistas like Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and Sarah Jessica Parker are toting them — but not necessarily brandished with ironic phrases.

“It’s just one of those things that makes people smile and makes people laugh, and it’s unexpected,” said Wiener, who got it all started with her @ironicboatandtote Instagram page, which she started as a fun side hustle from her job as social media manager for Air Mail, a digital publication launched by former Vanity Fair Editor-in-Chief Graydon Carter.

The folks at L.L. Bean were both stunned and pleased by the continuing growth. For the past two years, the Boat and Tote has been L.L. Bean’s No. 1 contributor to luring in new customers, and sales grew 64% from fiscal years 2021 to 2023, spokesperson Amanda Hannah said.

The surge in popularity is reminiscent of L.L. Bean’s traditional hunting shoe, the iconic staple for trudging through rain and muck, which enjoyed its own moment a few years back, driven by college students.