Gucci Sales Slump Continues as Kering Seeks New Designer

FILE PHOTO: The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo/File Photo
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Gucci Sales Slump Continues as Kering Seeks New Designer

FILE PHOTO: The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo/File Photo

French luxury group Kering reported a 12% drop in fourth quarter sales on Tuesday, dragged lower by its Italian brand Gucci, but flagged a slight improvement in major markets China and the United States.
The French conglomerate, which sacked Gucci designer Sabato de Sarno last week as part of its efforts to revive the label, said sales over the last three months of the year were 4.39 billion euros ($4.52 billion), down 12% on a comparable basis, in line with expectations, according to a Visible Alpha consensus cited by UBS.
Sales at Gucci, which accounts for nearly half of group sales and about two thirds of recurring operating profit, were down 24%, below analyst expectations for a 19% drop as the label's aesthetic overhaul failed to win back shoppers, Reuters reported.
Kering's efforts to turn around Gucci with a new, minimalist design approach from De Sarno, who took up the position two years ago, were complicated by a global slump in luxury demand.
The industry's sales rate is the slowest in years, and consultancy Bain & Company estimated they fell globally 2% last year, weighed down by a property crisis in China - a major market for Gucci.
Finance chief Armelle Poulou told reporters the company saw improvement of sales in mainland China and with Chinese shoppers, as well as the US.
"As far as China is concerned, we saw a sequential improvement in our sales of 6 points between Q3 and Q4, an improvement that we also saw in Chinese nationality," she said.
In a statement Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault said the company has reached a "point of stabilization, from which we will gradually resume growth".
Full year recurring income from operations came to 2.6 billion euros, slightly higher than Kering guidance in October for 2.5 billion euros.



Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
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Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)

Kering reported on Tuesday a slightly smaller-than-expected drop in fourth-quarter sales, as investors await details of CEO Luca de Meo's plans ​to revive the Gucci owner's flagging fortunes.

Sales reached 3.9 billion euros ($4.64 billion), down 3% from the previous year when adjusted for currency swings. That beat analysts' consensus forecast for a 5% drop, according to Visible Alpha.

The revenue drop was 10% at Italian flagship label Gucci, which accounts for most of Kering's profits, versus analyst expectations of a 12% decline.

It ‌was the brand's ‌10th straight quarter of revenue ‌decline.

Finance ⁠Chief ​Armelle ‌Poulou told journalists Gucci saw some improvement at the end of last year in "almost all regions", helped by newly introduced products and handbag sales.

Grappling with weak sales since the maximalist styles of Gucci's former star designer Alessandro Michele fell out of fashion in 2022, Kering has faced heightened investor scrutiny over its high ⁠debt and declining profitability.

Free cash from operations fell by 35% last year ‌when excluding one-off payments from real estate ‍sales, reaching 2.3 billion euros, Kering ‍said.

"For Kering, it's really about (restoring) the broad desirability globally," said ‍JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini.

Facing an uncertain business outlook, the group, which also owns Gucci Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, further reduced its store network by 75 boutiques with further closures planned, Poulou said.

The ​earnings underscored the steep challenges Kering faces to catch up with peers even though its shares have ⁠risen around 50% since de Meo's appointment was announced last June.

"2025 did not reflect Kering's true potential or the strength of our brands, but it enabled us to lay the foundations for our future recovery," said Poulou.

Kering's annual operating income reached 1.63 billion euros, less than a third of its 2022 level. Kering's operating profit margin fell to 11% group-wide and 16% at Gucci, down from 28% and 36% three years earlier.

By contrast, LVMH delivered a 22% margin last year amid ‌a broader luxury slowdown, with its leather and fashion division - home to Louis Vuitton and Dior - hitting 35%.


Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
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Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Pieter Mulier has been named the new creative director of the Milan fashion house Versace starting July 1, according to an announcement on Thursday from the Prada Group, which owns Versace.

Mulier is currently creative director of the French fashion house Alaïa, and was previously the right-hand man of fellow Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Dior.

In his new role, Mulier will report to Versace executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the designated successor to manage the family-run Prada Group. Bertelli is the son of Miuccia Prada and Prada Group chairman Patrizio Bertelli.

“We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue,’’ The Associated Press quoted Lorenzo Bertelli as saying of Mulier in a statement.

Mulier takes over from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after previewing just one collection during his short-lived Versace stint.

Mulier was honored last fall by supermodel and longtime Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his work paying tribute to brand founder Azzedine Alaïa. Mulier took the creative helm in 2021, after Alaïa’s death.


Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
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Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo

Ralph Lauren posted third-quarter results above Wall Street estimates on Thursday, but the luxury retailer's warning of margin pressure tied to US tariffs sent its shares down nearly 6.4% in premarket trading.

The company expects fourth-quarter margins, its smallest revenue period, to shrink about 80 to 120 basis points due to higher tariff pressure and marketing spend.

Ralph Lauren, which sources its products from regions such as China, India and Vietnam, has relied on raising prices and reallocating production to regions with lower duty exposure to offset US tariff pressures, Reuters reported.

"Ralph Lauren has been able to raise prices for some time now. There is some limit on how long it can continue to do this. I think (the company's) gross margins are near peak levels," Morningstar analyst David Swartz said.

The company, which sells $148 striped linen shirts and $498 leather handbags, has tightened inventory, lifted full-price sales and refreshed core styles, boosting its appeal among wealthier and younger customers, including Gen Z.

Higher-income households are still splurging on luxury items, travel and restaurant meals, while lower- and middle-income consumers are strained by higher costs for rents and food as well as a softer job market.

The New York City-based company saw quarterly operating costs jump 12% year-on-year as it ramped up brand building efforts through sports-focused brand campaigns such as Wimbledon and the US Open tennis championship.

The luxury retailer said revenue in the quarter ended December 27 rose 12% to $2.41 billion, above analysts' estimates of a 7.9% rise to $2.31 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG.

It earned $6.22 per share, excluding items, compared to expectations of $5.81, aided by a 220 basis points increase in margins and an 18% rise in average unit retail across its direct-to-consumer channel.

Ralph Lauren now expects fiscal 2026 revenue to rise in the high single to low double digits on a constant currency basis, up from its prior forecast of a 5% to 7% growth.