Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
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Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP

Its modern architecture complemented by latticework inspired by local Yoruba textiles, Alara, west Africa's first fashion and design "concept store", is an imposing sight in Lagos, Nigeria's bustling economic capital.

Founder Reni Folawiyo is now 10 years into forging what she calls "Afro-lux", Alara serving as a homebase for designs that "play between tradition and modernity", while working to elevate African fashion both at home and abroad, said AFP.

Inside, clothing from upscale African designers sits next to western brands, decorative art and books, part of Folawiyo's mission to put design from the continent on equal footing with established giants.

The lattice on the building's exterior is based on adire textiles, popular among the Yoruba ethnic group in southwest Nigeria.

"A lot of the beautiful things that people were making in different parts of Africa were not celebrated in the way that I thought they should be celebrated," the 60-year-old told AFP of the rural handiwork that often inspires the work on display.

"I felt very strongly in my belief that these objects and these people had value."

Music stars as style ambassadors

West African design is having a moment, Folawiyo told AFP in an interview in Lagos, wearing sunglasses with bright pink lenses.

In May, Nigerian music stars Burna Boy, Tems and Ayra Starr graced New York's Met Gala, dressed by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.

But for Folawiyo, it is not enough to just occupy the occasional runway.

"At the moment, the best way to platform designers outside Africa is to partner and collaborate with institutions that are of repute," she said, pointing to her recent pop-up store and exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum as well as a collaboration with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Taking notes from her own Yoruba culture -- with its rich textiles, bright colors and lavish ceremonies -- she's also found inspiration in the "rugged" design of Senegal and the "certain sophistication" found in Ivory Coast.

Alara is "my own idea of what a celebration of Africa looks like", she told AFP.

Culture through cuisine

Behind the boutique lies the NOK restaurant, whose executive chef is Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese chef who has led the charge in bringing the region's food scene to the United States.

While still high end, NOK's prices are more affordable than Alara's wares -- a tricky balancing act in a country like Nigeria, home to wealthy one-percenters in the tech and oil industries, a middle class battered by inflation and millions of informal workers.

Among Alara's austere interior of black walls and white concrete, a green dress from the Nigerian brand Eki Kere retails for 325,000 naira (about $210), while a table from Senegalese-Nigerian studio Salu Iwadi can fetch up to 10 times the price.

Folawiyo herself comes from Lagos's elite, as the wife of business magnate Tunde Folawiyo and daughter of former Western Region attorney general Lateef Adegbite.

Yet getting others -- including potential business partners -- to see her vision of African-born luxury was a struggle when she first attempted to launch Alara, she said.

"But I was very committed to it and I had great belief in myself and my idea," she said.

Now, firmly planted in Nigeria, Folawiyo organizes fashion shows abroad, including at Barbados's CARIFESTA XV this month.

But the industry's success, she said, ultimately relies on "passing on knowledge to future generations".



Ferragamo Expands Leather Mapping Efforts as EU Sustainability Rules Take Shape

James Ferragamo, a chief product officer for the Salvatore Ferragamo group, talks with journalists during an interview with the Associated Press, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, April 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
James Ferragamo, a chief product officer for the Salvatore Ferragamo group, talks with journalists during an interview with the Associated Press, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, April 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
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Ferragamo Expands Leather Mapping Efforts as EU Sustainability Rules Take Shape

James Ferragamo, a chief product officer for the Salvatore Ferragamo group, talks with journalists during an interview with the Associated Press, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, April 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
James Ferragamo, a chief product officer for the Salvatore Ferragamo group, talks with journalists during an interview with the Associated Press, in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, April 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Italian luxury brand Ferragamo said it can map the country of origin for much of the leather used to make its coveted footwear and handbags, a first step in traceability according to experts.

The announcement comes during a wave of European Union sustainability rules that are increasing pressure on fashion brands to account for materials in their supply chains.

The family-run and publicly traded fashion house has been issuing sustainability reports for over a decade, but the 2025 report released March 31 is the first that contains figures on material traceability — notably for leather, which experts say is harder to trace than textile fibers such as cotton.

“We have been using leather in a more sustainable way,’’ James Ferragamo, the brand’s chief product officer and grandson of founder Salvatore Ferragamo, told The Associated Press in an interview last week. “I think it is one of the more sustainable materials in my point of view.”

Most of the tanneries working with the brand “control their water, have fair treatment of the workforce, monitor their supply chain ensuring that they’re buying leather from those who are not deforesting, and taking the right approach also in terms of breeding and animal welfare,” he said.

Traceability in fashion sustainability Traceability of materials is considered a first and necessary step for the fashion industry, which is facing a new EU framework that will require brands and their suppliers to ensure the items they produce are sustainable from the drawing board to end-of-life disposal. Precise terms are still being defined and compliance will be phased in over the coming years.

“Traceability is an essential factor, but it’s not sufficient,’’ said Francesca Romana Rinaldi, a sustainability expert and director of the Monitor for Circular Fashion at SDA Bocconi School of Management. “It enables the implementation of sustainability and circularity.”

She said that any company that is not tracing their materials “doesn’t know their supply chain” and “could be also criticized for greenwashing.”

EU regulations and directives are moving toward full circularity of materials to include measures extending the life cycle of garments, accessories and footwear through repairs and end-of-life management, including recycling and upcycling, she said.

The EU is also phasing in restrictions on destroying unsold apparel, accessories and footwear produced by companies with more than 250 employees and more than 40 million euros ($46.8 million) in annual revenues.

From breeding to assembly The family-run fashion house was founded in 1927 by Salvatore Ferragamo in Florence, after his return from Hollywood, where he had established himself as shoemaker to the stars with clients including Marilyn Monroe and Judy Garland. Material scarcity during World War II pushed Ferragamo to experiment with alternatives, substituting wicker for leather and using cork for soles, the younger Ferragamo said.

In keeping with its origins, Ferragamo remains primarily a footwear and leather goods maker. Together, they comprised 86% of 2025 sales of 976.5 million euros ($1.1 billion).

Ferragamo launched its initiative on leather traceability with the calf leather used for its Fiamma bag, tracing it from breeding to assembly, the group announced in its 2024 annual report.

In 2025, Ferragamo enlisted tanneries supplying 80% of the hides it buys in a project to identify the country of origin of raw materials through supplier declarations. When including textiles such as cotton, silk and nylon, the company says 81% of its materials are certified under third-party sustainability standards.

“Today there is not one single solution, one single technological solution to trace the leather to the birth farm of the cows,’’ said Davide Triacca, Ferragamo’s sustainability director. “We got to that result through a very dedicated and consistent approach and today we are able to trace more than 80% of the entire leather that we supply and the vast majority of which comes from Europe.”

The EU does not require leather to be traceable. Sustainability experts underscore that approaches based on country-level mapping and supplier declarations do not establish a full chain of custody and instead reflect an early stage of traceability.

Ferragamo previously included a capsule collection with silky textiles made from orange fibers in 2017, one of its first research investments. More recently it used nylon from castor oil instead of fossil oil for a men’s tote bag, and its Back to Earth collection featured the brand’s trademark Hug handbag treated with vegetable dyes.

“Research keeps on going. It’s something that we’re doing all the time,'' Ferragamo said.

“We’re trying to find different ways of creating different materials. And sometimes the materials that we produce are not ready for market. But it doesn’t mean that we don’t experiment.”


Adidas Shares Pop After Beating Nike to Sub-Two-Hour Marathon Milestone

Athletics - London Marathon - London, Britain - April 26, 2026 Kenya's Sabastian Sawe celebrates with an Adidas Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 shoe after winning the men's elite race and setting a new world record with a time of 01:59:30 (Reuters)
Athletics - London Marathon - London, Britain - April 26, 2026 Kenya's Sabastian Sawe celebrates with an Adidas Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 shoe after winning the men's elite race and setting a new world record with a time of 01:59:30 (Reuters)
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Adidas Shares Pop After Beating Nike to Sub-Two-Hour Marathon Milestone

Athletics - London Marathon - London, Britain - April 26, 2026 Kenya's Sabastian Sawe celebrates with an Adidas Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 shoe after winning the men's elite race and setting a new world record with a time of 01:59:30 (Reuters)
Athletics - London Marathon - London, Britain - April 26, 2026 Kenya's Sabastian Sawe celebrates with an Adidas Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 shoe after winning the men's elite race and setting a new world record with a time of 01:59:30 (Reuters)

German sportswear maker Adidas' shares rose on Monday after Kenya's Sabastian Sawe became the first person to run a marathon in under two hours in an official race, accomplishing his feat wearing the brand's Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 trainers. 

Sawe shattered one of athletics' most elusive barriers on Sunday as he stormed to victory at the London Marathon in one hour 59 minutes and 30 seconds. The sub-two-hour marathon has been one of sport's biggest goals for years. 

After the race, Sawe held up his $500 Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 trainer with "WR" and "sub-2" written on it in black marker pen. He ‌beat the previous ‌world record of 2:00:35 set at the Chicago ‌Marathon ⁠in October 2023 ⁠by the late Kelvin Kiptum. 

The win is a boost for Adidas against arch-rival Nike , after years of lab-backed experiments and near-misses looking to build a so-called "supershoe" to break the record. 

Nike's Breaking2 attempt at Monza in 2017 just fell short though Kenyan great Eliud Kipchoge ran under two hours in INEOS's 1:59 Challenge two years later. Yet those efforts fell outside the sport's official ⁠record books. 

Ethiopia's Yomif Kejelcha finished second in his marathon ‌debut and Tigst Assefa broke her own ‌women-only world record. All three were wearing Adidas' Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 ‌trainers, which are set to go on sale on Thursday. 

Using innovative foam ‌and carbon-plated soles, and ultra-light components, the Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 weighs an average 97 grams, 30% less than its predecessor, and improves running economy by 1.6%, Adidas said. 

"The Adidas family is incredibly proud of Sabastian and Tigist's historic ‌achievements," Patrick Nava, general manager at Adidas Running, said in a statement. 

"This is a testament to the years ⁠of hard work ⁠and dedication the have made, alongside our innovation team". 

Adidas shares were up 2% in mid-morning although they are down 18% since the start of this year on concerns about the group's exposure to US tariffs and the impact of the conflict in the Middle East. 

Adidas released its Adizero Adios Pro Evo 1 trainers in late 2023, after Assefa set a new women's marathon world record while wearing them at the women's Berlin Marathon. 

The third iteration of the shoe will be released for $500 a pair exclusively via the Adidas app, with a wider release in the autumn marathon season, according to the company's website, but the steep price tag puts them out of reach of most runners. 


'The Devil Wears Prada 2' Puts Spotlight on Italy's Fashion Capital

An installation of the new movie 'Devil Wears Prada 2' is displayed at La Rinascente shopping center, in Milan, Italy, Monday, April 20, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
An installation of the new movie 'Devil Wears Prada 2' is displayed at La Rinascente shopping center, in Milan, Italy, Monday, April 20, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
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'The Devil Wears Prada 2' Puts Spotlight on Italy's Fashion Capital

An installation of the new movie 'Devil Wears Prada 2' is displayed at La Rinascente shopping center, in Milan, Italy, Monday, April 20, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
An installation of the new movie 'Devil Wears Prada 2' is displayed at La Rinascente shopping center, in Milan, Italy, Monday, April 20, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Prada may have a title role in “The Devil Wears Prada 2,” which premieres in Italy’s fashion capital on Thursday, but fashion at large gets a spotlight and Milan a supporting role.

The film evokes Prada without being about the storied fashion house that has become synonymous with Milan. In homage, Meryl Streep and Anna Wintour both wear Prada on a current Vogue cover celebrating the film about a demanding fashion editor.

But when part of the movie was shot in Milan during fashion week last September, a Dolce & Gabbana runway show, not Prada, was the backdrop for a scene featuring Streep and Stanley Tucci.

‘’When you think of Prada, when you think of the Prada brand, you also think of Milan. This is obviously good for the fashion system,’’ said Tommaso Sacchi, Milan’s counselor for culture. “It’s a film that is good for the city.’’

That enthusiasm is spilling over to a pop-up at Milan’s main department store, where aficionados of the film and fashionistas have flocked to take selfies at a replica of fictitious fashion editor Miranda Priestly’s desk and against the backdrop of a faux Runway magazine mock-up cover.

VIPs attending the film's Italian premiere on Thursday, ahead of its global release next week, will attend a cocktail in the space.

The Rinascente CEO, Mariella Elia, said the response to the pop-up — which is announced by giant statues of the iconic red pumps outside the store — shows that people have “a desire for lightness.”

“It’s not just about buying, it’s really about reviving what fashion represents ... a desire to have a stylish flair once again, a desire for joy, too — perhaps in contrast with the current economic and international moment that humanity is experiencing,’’ The Associated Press quoted Elia as saying.

On a recent day, the space filled with people browsing limited edition T-shirts with famous phrases from the first film like, “Is there some reason my coffee isn’t here?”

Valentina Cattivelli, a professor, said she wasn’t trying to channel Priestly as she sat behind the replica of her desk. It included an inbox full of other lines from the original film, including Priestly's dismissive, “That’s all.’’

“No, I’m not so cruel in my daily life, but I appreciate her professional style and also her fashion and the taste for fashion. But not her sarcasm or cruelty, no,” Cattivelli said.

The Prada brand was founded a few steps away, in the stately Vittorio Emanuele II Gallery, by Miuccia Prada’s grandfather.

The shopping arcade today is anchored by two Prada flagship stores.

Miuccia Prada transformed the brand into a fashion juggernaut, turning the infamous ugly chic aesthetic into must-have or must-emulate looks and accessories that bring intellectual heft to runway fashion — a theme of the original movie, which offered a peek beyond fashion-world frivolity.

“There is a close relationship between the ‘Devil Wears Prada’ franchise and Prada, because by evoking Prada from the very title, it evokes a fashion that makes you dream, a fashion that makes you feel elegant, a fashion that makes you feel good, a fashion that gives you an allure,’’ said Annarita Briganti, a fashion journalist who wrote a book about Prada for Rizzoli’s Made in Italy editions.