Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
TT

Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP

Its modern architecture complemented by latticework inspired by local Yoruba textiles, Alara, west Africa's first fashion and design "concept store", is an imposing sight in Lagos, Nigeria's bustling economic capital.

Founder Reni Folawiyo is now 10 years into forging what she calls "Afro-lux", Alara serving as a homebase for designs that "play between tradition and modernity", while working to elevate African fashion both at home and abroad, said AFP.

Inside, clothing from upscale African designers sits next to western brands, decorative art and books, part of Folawiyo's mission to put design from the continent on equal footing with established giants.

The lattice on the building's exterior is based on adire textiles, popular among the Yoruba ethnic group in southwest Nigeria.

"A lot of the beautiful things that people were making in different parts of Africa were not celebrated in the way that I thought they should be celebrated," the 60-year-old told AFP of the rural handiwork that often inspires the work on display.

"I felt very strongly in my belief that these objects and these people had value."

Music stars as style ambassadors

West African design is having a moment, Folawiyo told AFP in an interview in Lagos, wearing sunglasses with bright pink lenses.

In May, Nigerian music stars Burna Boy, Tems and Ayra Starr graced New York's Met Gala, dressed by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.

But for Folawiyo, it is not enough to just occupy the occasional runway.

"At the moment, the best way to platform designers outside Africa is to partner and collaborate with institutions that are of repute," she said, pointing to her recent pop-up store and exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum as well as a collaboration with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Taking notes from her own Yoruba culture -- with its rich textiles, bright colors and lavish ceremonies -- she's also found inspiration in the "rugged" design of Senegal and the "certain sophistication" found in Ivory Coast.

Alara is "my own idea of what a celebration of Africa looks like", she told AFP.

Culture through cuisine

Behind the boutique lies the NOK restaurant, whose executive chef is Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese chef who has led the charge in bringing the region's food scene to the United States.

While still high end, NOK's prices are more affordable than Alara's wares -- a tricky balancing act in a country like Nigeria, home to wealthy one-percenters in the tech and oil industries, a middle class battered by inflation and millions of informal workers.

Among Alara's austere interior of black walls and white concrete, a green dress from the Nigerian brand Eki Kere retails for 325,000 naira (about $210), while a table from Senegalese-Nigerian studio Salu Iwadi can fetch up to 10 times the price.

Folawiyo herself comes from Lagos's elite, as the wife of business magnate Tunde Folawiyo and daughter of former Western Region attorney general Lateef Adegbite.

Yet getting others -- including potential business partners -- to see her vision of African-born luxury was a struggle when she first attempted to launch Alara, she said.

"But I was very committed to it and I had great belief in myself and my idea," she said.

Now, firmly planted in Nigeria, Folawiyo organizes fashion shows abroad, including at Barbados's CARIFESTA XV this month.

But the industry's success, she said, ultimately relies on "passing on knowledge to future generations".



M&S Rolls Out Zalando Fulfillment Deal in 22 European Markets

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
TT

M&S Rolls Out Zalando Fulfillment Deal in 22 European Markets

A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)
A shopper carries a Marks & Spencer shopping bag in London, Britain, January 2, 2025. (Reuters)

Britain's Marks & Spencer has expanded its partnership with Germany's Zalando, enabling the online fashion retailer to fulfill M&S' direct-to-consumer orders across 22 continental European markets, it said on Tuesday.

M&S said the partnership ‌would help ‌scale its European online ‌business ⁠through faster deliveries ⁠and returns, while reducing logistics costs by up to half.

The partnership was announced in November last year ⁠and successfully trialed in ‌Poland ‌this month.

Partnership now expanded ‌across Europe, including M&S' largest ‌online markets of France, the Netherlands, Germany and Spain.

M&S said it is ‌continuing to see momentum in its international online ⁠business, ⁠driven by growing demand for its fashion offer.

In May, M&S forecast a return to profit growth this year after it slumped 24% in 2025/26, hit by a cyberattack that dented sales and margins.


Shein Grapples with EU Backlash, But Clients Keep Coming

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
TT

Shein Grapples with EU Backlash, But Clients Keep Coming

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo

Shein's meteoric growth has made it a lightning rod for critics of ultrafast fashion in Europe, where officials are trying to rein in its operations in the name of social and environmental responsibility.

The probes, financial penalties and fierce debates have dampened but not fully curbed the enthusiasm of millions of clients in a key market for the China-founded online juggernaut.

The company's $1.7 billion stock market listing, announced on Monday, aims in particular to juice its international expansion, AFP said.

- Short-lived Paris store -

Starting in 2012, Shein began online sales of its continually renewed stock of tops, dresses and other items, drastically undercutting the prices of its rivals -- to say nothing of traditional clothing stores.

Its European customer base rose to 156 million average monthly users by the end of last year, making Shein one of the continent's biggest e-commerce platforms alongside China's AliExpress (193 million users), and Amazon (around 180 million).

In November, the group made waves with its first-ever physical outlet, a dedicated space in the storied BHV department store in Paris.

Hundreds of customers lined up on its opening day, and dozens more people gathered to protest, requiring a heavy police presence to keep the tense situation from getting out of hand.

Demonstrators slammed what they called inhumane working conditions at Shein's suppliers, the environmental costs of selling clothes not made to last, and unfair competition against brick-and-mortar retailers struggling to stay open.

The company says it holds its suppliers to strict compliance standards and does not tolerate forced labor.

- Sex doll scandal -

It did not help that just a few days before the Paris opening, France's consumer protection agency said it had discovered childlike sex dolls for sale on Shein's platform.

Accusing the company of fostering child pornography, French officials asked the European Commission to open an inquiry under the bloc's wide-reaching Digital Services Act.

The EU investigation that opened in February 2026 targeted the sale of illicit goods "including child sexual abuse material" as well as what it alleged was Shein's "addictive design".

In June, French authorities imposed two fines on Shein totaling more than 22 million euros ($25 million), citing problems with product traceability, environmental labelling and delivery times.

The next month it secured an EU-wide halt on the sales of items with crocodile logos -- deemed a counterfeit of France's famed Lacoste brand of polo shirts.

Overall, Shein has paid over 210 million euros in various French fines over the years, and Italy has also imposed fines alleging misleading environmental claims.

In June, the BHV's new owners said they would part ways with Shein, calling the decision to welcome a physical outlet a "strategic error".

- Regulatory pushback -

Shein has called the penalties "disproportionate and discriminatory", while China's commerce ministry says they violate World Trade Organization rules.

That did not stop the European Union from imposing duties on the billions of small, inexpensive retail parcels entering the bloc each year -- most of them from Chinese e-commerce sites.

Since July, a duty of three euros per item applies to packages valued at less than 150 euros, similar to a move last year by US President Donald Trump's administration against products originating in China.

But the EU fee applies to the type of item imported, not the number. So a person buying five T-shirts pays just three euros, but someone buying a T-shirt, jeans and socks would pay nine euros.

Brussels says the duty helps compensate for overwhelmed customs authorities given the popularity of e-commerce, in particular for clothes and other items from China and elsewhere that do not comply with EU standards.

According to the head of the European Parliament's trade committee, Bernd Lange, the number of small parcels from abroad have more than quadrupled to 5.88 billion since 2022.

Starting in November, the EU will impose a still-undetermined handling fee on such parcels.

It is far from clear how effective the duties will be, especially as online giants like Shein could build warehouses in Europe to limit the impact.

After France imposed its own duty of two euros on such parcels this year -- before the EU system kicked in -- the customs office estimated it brought in around 2.3 million euros per month.

That was far below the 33 million euros per month the government had expected in the 2026 budget.


Sources: Shein Aims to IPO on September 1

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
TT

Sources: Shein Aims to IPO on September 1

FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Packs of clothing are displayed at a garment factory for Shein in Panyu District, Guangzhou, Guangdong province, China, July 27, 2026. REUTERS/Go Nakamura/File Photo

Shein aims to launch its Hong Kong initial public offering on Monday, according to a source familiar with the matter, and is targeting a listing on September 1, two other sources said, slightly later than previously planned.

While September 1 is the target date, the listing could happen a few days later, one ⁠of the sources ⁠said. Reuters reported last week that Shein had been aiming to list on August 28.

The delay, first reported by the South China Morning Post, comes as slower growth and rising costs have dampened investor appetite for Shein.

The online fast-fashion retailer was ⁠seen just a few years ago as a disruptive challenger to established retailers such as H&M and Zara, thanks to its rapid supply chain and ultra-low prices.

Among cornerstone investors in the IPO is the asset management arm of UBS Group, which would be investing in Shein for the first time, according to a fourth source with direct knowledge of the matter.

A spokesperson for the Swiss bank declined to comment.

Cornerstone investors ⁠agree to ⁠buy a set amount of shares before an IPO, and sign up to a lockup period of six months.

Shein is targeting a valuation of $26 billion to $27 billion, the fourth source said, down sharply from the $100 billion valuation it achieved in a private fundraising in 2022.

The company had previously sought an IPO valuation of $30 billion to $40 billion when investor meetings ahead of the IPO first kicked off.

Shein did not respond to a Reuters request for comment.