Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
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Nigerian Designer Pushes 'Afro-lux' Onto the Global Fashion Scene

Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP
Reni Folawiyo, founder of Alara concept store in Lagos, promotes what she calls 'Afro-lux'. OLYMPIA DE MAISMONT / AFP

Its modern architecture complemented by latticework inspired by local Yoruba textiles, Alara, west Africa's first fashion and design "concept store", is an imposing sight in Lagos, Nigeria's bustling economic capital.

Founder Reni Folawiyo is now 10 years into forging what she calls "Afro-lux", Alara serving as a homebase for designs that "play between tradition and modernity", while working to elevate African fashion both at home and abroad, said AFP.

Inside, clothing from upscale African designers sits next to western brands, decorative art and books, part of Folawiyo's mission to put design from the continent on equal footing with established giants.

The lattice on the building's exterior is based on adire textiles, popular among the Yoruba ethnic group in southwest Nigeria.

"A lot of the beautiful things that people were making in different parts of Africa were not celebrated in the way that I thought they should be celebrated," the 60-year-old told AFP of the rural handiwork that often inspires the work on display.

"I felt very strongly in my belief that these objects and these people had value."

Music stars as style ambassadors

West African design is having a moment, Folawiyo told AFP in an interview in Lagos, wearing sunglasses with bright pink lenses.

In May, Nigerian music stars Burna Boy, Tems and Ayra Starr graced New York's Met Gala, dressed by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.

But for Folawiyo, it is not enough to just occupy the occasional runway.

"At the moment, the best way to platform designers outside Africa is to partner and collaborate with institutions that are of repute," she said, pointing to her recent pop-up store and exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum as well as a collaboration with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Taking notes from her own Yoruba culture -- with its rich textiles, bright colors and lavish ceremonies -- she's also found inspiration in the "rugged" design of Senegal and the "certain sophistication" found in Ivory Coast.

Alara is "my own idea of what a celebration of Africa looks like", she told AFP.

Culture through cuisine

Behind the boutique lies the NOK restaurant, whose executive chef is Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese chef who has led the charge in bringing the region's food scene to the United States.

While still high end, NOK's prices are more affordable than Alara's wares -- a tricky balancing act in a country like Nigeria, home to wealthy one-percenters in the tech and oil industries, a middle class battered by inflation and millions of informal workers.

Among Alara's austere interior of black walls and white concrete, a green dress from the Nigerian brand Eki Kere retails for 325,000 naira (about $210), while a table from Senegalese-Nigerian studio Salu Iwadi can fetch up to 10 times the price.

Folawiyo herself comes from Lagos's elite, as the wife of business magnate Tunde Folawiyo and daughter of former Western Region attorney general Lateef Adegbite.

Yet getting others -- including potential business partners -- to see her vision of African-born luxury was a struggle when she first attempted to launch Alara, she said.

"But I was very committed to it and I had great belief in myself and my idea," she said.

Now, firmly planted in Nigeria, Folawiyo organizes fashion shows abroad, including at Barbados's CARIFESTA XV this month.

But the industry's success, she said, ultimately relies on "passing on knowledge to future generations".



Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
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Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Pieter Mulier has been named the new creative director of the Milan fashion house Versace starting July 1, according to an announcement on Thursday from the Prada Group, which owns Versace.

Mulier is currently creative director of the French fashion house Alaïa, and was previously the right-hand man of fellow Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Dior.

In his new role, Mulier will report to Versace executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the designated successor to manage the family-run Prada Group. Bertelli is the son of Miuccia Prada and Prada Group chairman Patrizio Bertelli.

“We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue,’’ The Associated Press quoted Lorenzo Bertelli as saying of Mulier in a statement.

Mulier takes over from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after previewing just one collection during his short-lived Versace stint.

Mulier was honored last fall by supermodel and longtime Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his work paying tribute to brand founder Azzedine Alaïa. Mulier took the creative helm in 2021, after Alaïa’s death.


Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
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Ralph Lauren’s Margin Caution Eclipses Stronger‑than‑expected Quarterly Results

Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo
Guests wait after viewing the latest Ralph Lauren collection in New York City, US, April 17, 2025. REUTERS/Caitlin Ochs/File photo

Ralph Lauren posted third-quarter results above Wall Street estimates on Thursday, but the luxury retailer's warning of margin pressure tied to US tariffs sent its shares down nearly 6.4% in premarket trading.

The company expects fourth-quarter margins, its smallest revenue period, to shrink about 80 to 120 basis points due to higher tariff pressure and marketing spend.

Ralph Lauren, which sources its products from regions such as China, India and Vietnam, has relied on raising prices and reallocating production to regions with lower duty exposure to offset US tariff pressures, Reuters reported.

"Ralph Lauren has been able to raise prices for some time now. There is some limit on how long it can continue to do this. I think (the company's) gross margins are near peak levels," Morningstar analyst David Swartz said.

The company, which sells $148 striped linen shirts and $498 leather handbags, has tightened inventory, lifted full-price sales and refreshed core styles, boosting its appeal among wealthier and younger customers, including Gen Z.

Higher-income households are still splurging on luxury items, travel and restaurant meals, while lower- and middle-income consumers are strained by higher costs for rents and food as well as a softer job market.

The New York City-based company saw quarterly operating costs jump 12% year-on-year as it ramped up brand building efforts through sports-focused brand campaigns such as Wimbledon and the US Open tennis championship.

The luxury retailer said revenue in the quarter ended December 27 rose 12% to $2.41 billion, above analysts' estimates of a 7.9% rise to $2.31 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG.

It earned $6.22 per share, excluding items, compared to expectations of $5.81, aided by a 220 basis points increase in margins and an 18% rise in average unit retail across its direct-to-consumer channel.

Ralph Lauren now expects fiscal 2026 revenue to rise in the high single to low double digits on a constant currency basis, up from its prior forecast of a 5% to 7% growth.


Saudi Fashion Commission, Kering Launch 'Kering Generation Award X MENA'

This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA
This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA
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Saudi Fashion Commission, Kering Launch 'Kering Generation Award X MENA'

This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA
This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners. SPA

Saudi Arabia’s Fashion Commission and global luxury group Kering have launched the "Kering Generation Award X MENA" across the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) for 2026.

The announcement was made on Tuesday during the opening of the RLC Global Forum, hosted at the French Embassy in Riyadh.

This year's award builds on the strong success of the 2025 award, which attracted more than 500 applications, shortlisted 21 finalists, and recognized three winners.

Participants benefited from mentorship programs, workshops, and opportunities to strengthen their global presence. Building on this momentum, the 2026 program seeks to expand its impact across the MENA region.

The 2026 award focuses on four key areas of sustainable fashion: innovation in regenerative materials and clean production, circular design and sustainable business models, nature conservation and animal welfare, and consumer awareness and cultural engagement.

The program targets startups across the MENA region that operate in, or positively influence, the sustainable fashion sector, provided they demonstrate innovation capabilities and the ability to deliver measurable sustainability outcomes.