Paris Mourns Valentino, the Last Titan of Couture’s Golden Age

An Italian flag hangs at half-mast outside the Valentino Creative Headquarters, following the death of the fashion designer Valentino Garavani at the age of 93 on Monday, in Rome, Italy, January 20, 2026. (Reuters)
An Italian flag hangs at half-mast outside the Valentino Creative Headquarters, following the death of the fashion designer Valentino Garavani at the age of 93 on Monday, in Rome, Italy, January 20, 2026. (Reuters)
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Paris Mourns Valentino, the Last Titan of Couture’s Golden Age

An Italian flag hangs at half-mast outside the Valentino Creative Headquarters, following the death of the fashion designer Valentino Garavani at the age of 93 on Monday, in Rome, Italy, January 20, 2026. (Reuters)
An Italian flag hangs at half-mast outside the Valentino Creative Headquarters, following the death of the fashion designer Valentino Garavani at the age of 93 on Monday, in Rome, Italy, January 20, 2026. (Reuters)

Valentino Garavani’s death cast a long shadow over the opening day of Paris Fashion Week menswear Tuesday, with front-row guests and industry figures mourning the passing of one of the last towering names of 20th-century couture — an Italian designer whose working life was closely entwined with the Paris runways.

Valentino, 93, died at his Rome residence, the Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti Foundation said in a statement announcing his death. While he built his house in Rome, he spent decades presenting collections in France.

He “was one of the last big couturiers who really embodied what was fashion in the 20th century,” said Pierre Groppo, fashion editor-in-chief at Vanity Fair France.

On a day meant to sell the future, many guests said they were thinking about what fashion has lost: the couturier as a living institution.

Groppo pointed to the codes that made Valentino instantly legible — “the dots, the ruffles, the knots” — and to a generation of designers who, he said, “in a way, invented what is celebrity culture.”

Valentino’s vision was built on a simple idea: make women look luminous, then make the moment unforgettable.

He dressed Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor, among others, fixed his signature “Valentino red” in the public imagination, and — through his decades-long partnership with Giancarlo Giammetti — helped turn the designer himself into part of the spectacle, as recognizable as the clients in his front row.

The end of a fashion era

Prominent fashion writer Luke Leitch framed the loss in similarly outsized terms, calling Valentino “the last of the fashion ‘leviathans of that generation’,” and saying it was “absolutely” the end of a certain class of designer: figures whose names could carry a global house, and whose authority came not from viral speed but from permanence.

Trained in Paris before founding his maison in Rome, Valentino became a rare bridge figure: Italian by origin, but fluent in the rituals that made Paris couture an institution. His career moved between those two capitals of elegance, bringing Roman grandeur into a system that still treats fashion not only as commerce, but as ceremony.

Even as he aged, the house’s founder kept turning up at its couture and ready-to-wear shows, as observed by one Associated Press journalist — until he eventually retreated from public life, all the while radiating quiet grandeur from his front-row seat.

For some in Paris on Tuesday, the loss felt personal precisely because Valentino’s world was never only Italian.

Groppo recalled the designer as “very much more than a fashion brand,” adding: “It was a lifestyle.”

That lifestyle — couture polish, social glamour, and the conviction that elegance could be a form of power — remains a reference point even as fashion accelerates toward louder branding and faster cycles.

“It’s quite sad as he’s so important to the fashion industry, and he contributed a lot and I cannot forget the stunning red he created,” said Lolo Zhang, a Chinese fashion influencer attending Louis Vuitton ’s show in Paris.

“He always celebrated pure beauty, and architecture for the silhouette, and how he used color. The old era just passed by.”

Other guests described a delayed realization — the kind that arrives only when a figure who seemed permanent is suddenly gone.

YSL, Chanel and Valentino

“There are some people who want to be Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel. ... There are also people who are spontaneously Valentino,” said Guy-Claude Agboton, deputy editor of Ideat magazine. “It’s a question of identity.”

For Paris fashion observer Benedict Epinay, the grief was bound up with memory. And with the emotional charge of Valentino’s final bow.

“It was such a great moment. I was lucky enough to attend the last show he gave,” Epinay said. “It was so moving because we knew at that time it was the last show.”

Fashion observer Arfan Ghani pointed to what Valentino represented to younger designers: a “classy” standard of restraint in an era that often rewards noise.

“Because it was very classical materials," Ghani said. "It wasn’t as loud as a lot of other of these brands are with branding.”

Paris-based sculptor Ranti Bam described Valentino in the language of form: less trend than structure, less look than line.

“As a sculptor I saw Valentino as an artist,” Bam said. “He transcended fashion into sculpture.”

“He didn’t follow trends, he pursued form,” she added. “That’s why his work doesn’t date, it endures.”

The fashion house Valentino has for years continued under a new generation of leadership and design — still showcased in Paris.



Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2026 Collection a Mix of Romantic Adventure with Metallic Flair 

A model walks the runway during the Ralph Lauren Fall 2026 Collection fashion show in New York, on February 10, 2026. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Ralph Lauren Fall 2026 Collection fashion show in New York, on February 10, 2026. (AFP)
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Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2026 Collection a Mix of Romantic Adventure with Metallic Flair 

A model walks the runway during the Ralph Lauren Fall 2026 Collection fashion show in New York, on February 10, 2026. (AFP)
A model walks the runway during the Ralph Lauren Fall 2026 Collection fashion show in New York, on February 10, 2026. (AFP)

With more than 50 years in fashion, Ralph Lauren is still looking for adventure. Lauren took his celebrity guests on an adventure into the English countryside Tuesday for his fall 2026 runway show.

Set amid the beaux arts architecture of the Clock Tower building in Manhattan, Lauren delivered a stylish take on softness and strength, pairing luxurious earth-toned rich fabrics with metallic detailing for his latest collection.

Lauren’s ethereal models with their hair flowing behind them strutted on opulent rugs as celebrity guests including actor Anne Hathaway, singer Lana Del Rey and actor Lili Reinhart looked on from antique style chairs; a romantic painted landscape canvas filled the walls surrounding them.

In his show notes, Lauren described his muse as a woman whose style is not defined by time.

“I love the adventure of fashion,” Ralph Lauren wrote, adding his fall collection “is inspired by that kind of renegade spirit and the confidence of the woman who will wear it in her own personal way — to tell her own story.”

The 86-year-old designer has never been one to follow trends but drive them. At Tuesday’s show, accessories added a modern flair from leather gloves paired with a knit off-the-shoulder dress to shimmering silver detailing.

Supermodel Gigi Hadid opened the show in a wool corseted top and maxi skirt accentuated with a silver waist chain. Other models walked the runway with silver belt chains and metallic brooches that stood in an edgy contrast to Lauren’s romantic Victorian tops and tailored jackets. Lauren pinned metallic glimmering brooches to lush wool cloaks that were elegantly draped over models’ shoulders in a show of strength.

In a modern twist on Joan of Arc, Lauren designed a chain mail top that delicately peeked out from underneath one model’s tweed jacket. Lauren complemented the look with a printed scarf and leather pants.

“There were several looks that had this beautiful chain mail kind of detailing,” actor Ariana DeBose told The Associated Press. “What a way to give a woman beautiful armor.”

Even with his contemporary additions, Lauren’s collection still included his signature touches from his riding boots, exquisite tailoring and elegant high neck blouses.

Lauren’s brand is an American staple that continues to prevail in an ever-changing industry. As part of his enduring legacy, Lauren was once again tapped to design the uniforms for Team USA at the Olympic Winter Games in Milan, marking his sixth time designing for the games.

“From being in Italy with the greatest athletes in the world and then coming here to New York City to put on a fashion show that’s so elegant, it’s two different sides of Ralph Lauren and two different sides of what an American company can do to reach the world,” David Lauren, the company's chief branding and innovation officer, said.


Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
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Kering’s Fourth-Quarter Sales Fall Less Than Expected as Gucci Slide Continues

The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of French luxury group Kering is seen at Kering headquarters in Paris, France, February 13, 2023. (Reuters)

Kering reported on Tuesday a slightly smaller-than-expected drop in fourth-quarter sales, as investors await details of CEO Luca de Meo's plans ​to revive the Gucci owner's flagging fortunes.

Sales reached 3.9 billion euros ($4.64 billion), down 3% from the previous year when adjusted for currency swings. That beat analysts' consensus forecast for a 5% drop, according to Visible Alpha.

The revenue drop was 10% at Italian flagship label Gucci, which accounts for most of Kering's profits, versus analyst expectations of a 12% decline.

It ‌was the brand's ‌10th straight quarter of revenue ‌decline.

Finance ⁠Chief ​Armelle ‌Poulou told journalists Gucci saw some improvement at the end of last year in "almost all regions", helped by newly introduced products and handbag sales.

Grappling with weak sales since the maximalist styles of Gucci's former star designer Alessandro Michele fell out of fashion in 2022, Kering has faced heightened investor scrutiny over its high ⁠debt and declining profitability.

Free cash from operations fell by 35% last year ‌when excluding one-off payments from real estate ‍sales, reaching 2.3 billion euros, Kering ‍said.

"For Kering, it's really about (restoring) the broad desirability globally," said ‍JPMorgan analyst Chiara Battistini.

Facing an uncertain business outlook, the group, which also owns Gucci Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, further reduced its store network by 75 boutiques with further closures planned, Poulou said.

The ​earnings underscored the steep challenges Kering faces to catch up with peers even though its shares have ⁠risen around 50% since de Meo's appointment was announced last June.

"2025 did not reflect Kering's true potential or the strength of our brands, but it enabled us to lay the foundations for our future recovery," said Poulou.

Kering's annual operating income reached 1.63 billion euros, less than a third of its 2022 level. Kering's operating profit margin fell to 11% group-wide and 16% at Gucci, down from 28% and 36% three years earlier.

By contrast, LVMH delivered a 22% margin last year amid ‌a broader luxury slowdown, with its leather and fashion division - home to Louis Vuitton and Dior - hitting 35%.


Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
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Pieter Mulier Named Creative Director of Versace

(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)
(FILES) Pieter Mulier attends the 2025 CFDA Awards at The American Museum of Natural History on November 03, 2025 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Pieter Mulier has been named the new creative director of the Milan fashion house Versace starting July 1, according to an announcement on Thursday from the Prada Group, which owns Versace.

Mulier is currently creative director of the French fashion house Alaïa, and was previously the right-hand man of fellow Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Dior.

In his new role, Mulier will report to Versace executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli, the designated successor to manage the family-run Prada Group. Bertelli is the son of Miuccia Prada and Prada Group chairman Patrizio Bertelli.

“We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue,’’ The Associated Press quoted Lorenzo Bertelli as saying of Mulier in a statement.

Mulier takes over from Dario Vitale, who departed in December after previewing just one collection during his short-lived Versace stint.

Mulier was honored last fall by supermodel and longtime Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell at the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his work paying tribute to brand founder Azzedine Alaïa. Mulier took the creative helm in 2021, after Alaïa’s death.