Judge Lifts Judicial Control on 2 Italian Fashion Firms in Worker Exploitation Case

A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)
A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)
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Judge Lifts Judicial Control on 2 Italian Fashion Firms in Worker Exploitation Case

A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)
A woman walks her dog at the CityLife Shopping District in Milan, on March 25, 2026. (Photo by Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP)

An Italian judge has lifted the judicial control imposed by Milan prosecutors on two Italian fashion firms over alleged worker exploitation, court documents seen by Reuters showed, meaning a court-appointed administrator need no longer monitor the two firms' operations.

It is the first time a judge has not upheld such a measure in a series of similar cases involving the high-end fashion sector.

Milan prosecutors had placed the two firms under investigation on March 17, along with their two directors and three Chinese nationals ⁠who owned two ⁠workshops to which the brands had subcontracted production.

In a 25-page ruling seen on Monday, Judge Roberto Crepaldi said "the conditions do not exist" for placing Alberto Aspesi and Dama Spa, owner of the Paul & Shark brand, under judicial oversight.

He added it had not been proven that ⁠the two companies' directors were complicit in the crime of labor exploitation.

The judge said the exploitation and underpayment of migrant workers had been established, but he attributed responsibility to the two subcontracting workshops rather than to the two client companies. Milan prosecutors said they would file an appeal on Tuesday over the judge's decision, asking a court to confirm the judicial oversight measure.

A three-judge panel will then decide whether to uphold the lower court ⁠judge's ruling ⁠or reimpose judicial control.

Being placed under investigation does not imply guilt or mean the case will go to trial.

Aspesi and Dama have not commented on the case, while the lawyer for Dama's director said he ruled out any criminal liability for his client, Andrea Dini.

The March 17 move had brought to seven the number of high-end brands put under various forms of judicial administration because of suspected labor violations, while another 13 have been subject to inspections - cases that have tainted the sector's image.



LVMH Sales Edge Higher Despite Fashion Slide

FILE PHOTO: A Louis Vuitton logo is seen outside a store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, August 3, 2025. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A Louis Vuitton logo is seen outside a store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, August 3, 2025. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo
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LVMH Sales Edge Higher Despite Fashion Slide

FILE PHOTO: A Louis Vuitton logo is seen outside a store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, August 3, 2025. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A Louis Vuitton logo is seen outside a store on the Champs-Elysees avenue in Paris, France, August 3, 2025. REUTERS/Stephanie Lecocq/File Photo

LVMH, the world's leading luxury group, said Monday its sales edged higher in the third quarter despite a slowdown in China hitting its fashion and leather goods segment.

The group, whose brands include Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine and drinks maker Hennessy, took in 18.5 billion euros ($20.6 billion) in the three months to the end of September, beating the consensus of analysts polled by Factset financial data firm.

The 1.2 percent sales gain beat the marginal 0.1 percent increase registered in the second quarter. The group's sales slumped six percent in the first three months of the year.

"Backed by its diverse range of businesses, LVMH remained very solid in an uncertain geopolitical and economic environment," AFP quoted the company as saying in a statement.

But the fashion and leather goods segment saw sales drop five percent excluding currency effects and changes to the business as it was "affected in the third quarter by the slowdown in demand in China."

Louis Vuitton saw its public image take a hit in China after pursuing a local tea company for copying its logo. While it won the case, it provoked a wave of indignation on social media and a call to boycott the brand.

The drop for fashion and leather goods follows the segment posting its first sales gain in two years in the second quarter.

But LVMH's selective retailing division, which includes the Sephora perfume and cosmetics retail chain, posted an eight percent sales increase, while the watches and jewelry and wines and spirits segments both managed six percent gains.

LVMH's share price has dropped 40 percent since the start of the year, with the group losing its place as the leading company on the Paris CAC 40 index in terms of capitalization to L'Oreal.


Saint Laurent Says Designer Anthony Vaccarello to Leave

(FILES) Belgian designer for Saint Laurent Anthony Vaccarello acknowledges the audience at the end of the women's 2018 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 26, 2017. (Photo by ALAIN JOCARD / AFP)
(FILES) Belgian designer for Saint Laurent Anthony Vaccarello acknowledges the audience at the end of the women's 2018 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 26, 2017. (Photo by ALAIN JOCARD / AFP)
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Saint Laurent Says Designer Anthony Vaccarello to Leave

(FILES) Belgian designer for Saint Laurent Anthony Vaccarello acknowledges the audience at the end of the women's 2018 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 26, 2017. (Photo by ALAIN JOCARD / AFP)
(FILES) Belgian designer for Saint Laurent Anthony Vaccarello acknowledges the audience at the end of the women's 2018 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show in Paris, on September 26, 2017. (Photo by ALAIN JOCARD / AFP)

Belgian fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello will leave his post as chief designer at Saint Laurent after a decade in charge, the French house's parent company Kering announced Friday.

"Anthony Vaccarello has played a key role in Saint Laurent's development, helping to strengthen its identity and influence across the worlds of fashion and culture," Kering said in a statement, without giving any reason for Vaccarello's departure.

The designer had hinted at his potential exit at his final show for Saint Laurent on September 29.

Saint Laurent is the last major Kering brand to switch creative director as a ⁠luxury ⁠industry slowdown prompted designer changes last year at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta.

"The focus of the new designer will be in currently under-represented product categories, such as women's daywear and menswear, in high-end leather goods, and less penetrated regions such as China/Asia," Barclays analysts said in a note.

Industry speculation points to Chemena Kamali, currently creative director at Chloe and previously womenswear design director at Saint Laurent, as Vaccarello's likely successor.
Saint Laurent's gross revenues fell by 9% and 6% in 2024 and 2025, before largely stabilizing this year, according to Kering.


Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa Watch Chanel’s Creative Revival at Paris Fashion Week

Models present creations for Chanel Women's Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on October 5, 2026. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)
Models present creations for Chanel Women's Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on October 5, 2026. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)
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Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa Watch Chanel’s Creative Revival at Paris Fashion Week

Models present creations for Chanel Women's Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on October 5, 2026. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)
Models present creations for Chanel Women's Spring/Summer 2027 collection fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on October 5, 2026. (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)

Chanel’s artistic director Matthieu Blazy sent the fashion house's suits stretching towards sportswear and evening dresses drifting through clouds, with Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa and Pedro Pascal in the audience as he unveiled his spring-summer 2027 collection.

The Monday night show underscored that a year into his creative revival, Blazy has made the house feel newly unpredictable.

The former Bottega Veneta designer succeeded Virginie Viard, who took over after Karl Lagerfeld ’s death in 2019. Viard’s tenure brought record sales but Blazy’s contribution has been to restore a sense that Chanel’s familiar ingredients can produce something unexpected.

That renewal is visible in his treatment of the house’s symbols: tweed can stretch; formal jackets sit against bare skin; quilted bags turn slouchy.

The appeal lies in giving established clients something recognizable, and newer ones something to reinterpret.

Beneath illuminated birds at the Grand Palais, Blazy's collection traced Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s passage from Edwardian constraint towards the freedom she sought in dress.

“It’s about the women within a woman,” Blazy wrote in his notes.

Across 83 looks, that meant expanding the possibilities of a Chanel wardrobe: knits that skimmed the body, masculine tailoring, airy eveningwear and sharply abbreviated skirts.

Raw-edged waistcoats and narrow skirt suits reworked men’s formal clothes. A pearl-embroidered corset top paired with black trousers brought the tension between restriction and ease into focus.

Older fashions lingered in ruffled collars, peplums and traces of corset boning.

The strongest development was Chanel’s new “smocked tweed,” designed to stretch and move with something of athleticwear’s ease. It was a useful proposition for an expensive, familiar garment: preserve its character while improving its possibilities.

Competing patterns and frothy tutus sometimes tipped towards costume. Dres

ses made from layered, printed silk were more persuasive, turning cloud formations and changing light into shifting color, The Associated Press reported.

Model Dyanira Hurbuscher opened and closed the collection — carrying Gabrielle Chanel’s own 2.55 handbag, borrowed from the famed archives.

That element neatly framed the collection’s ambition: continuity with room for change — a balance Blazy’s revitalization of Chanel rests on.

He has made Chanel's heritage feel available for play, backed by serious work in the ateliers.

Lipa wore a sleeveless skirt suit with pink heels. Kidman attended with her daughter Faith Margaret.