Ralph Lauren, a Son of the Bronx, Takes over Brooklyn in Lavish Return to NY Fashion Week

 Fashion from Ralph Lauren's latest collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Friday Sept. 8, 2023 in New York. (AP)
Fashion from Ralph Lauren's latest collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Friday Sept. 8, 2023 in New York. (AP)
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Ralph Lauren, a Son of the Bronx, Takes over Brooklyn in Lavish Return to NY Fashion Week

 Fashion from Ralph Lauren's latest collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Friday Sept. 8, 2023 in New York. (AP)
Fashion from Ralph Lauren's latest collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Friday Sept. 8, 2023 in New York. (AP)

He may have been born in the Bronx, but designer Ralph Lauren took over a different New York city borough — Brooklyn — with a sumptuous event that marked his return to NY Fashion Week after four years and brought out stars like Jennifer Lopez, Julianne Moore, Diane Keaton, Mindy Kaling, Gabrielle Union, James Marsden and many others.

After crossing the country last year to stage a lavish show at the grand Huntington Library in San Marino, California, Lauren returned to his home base of New York with Friday's show in a cavernous warehouse space at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, transformed into a reimagined artist’s loft. He decorated the space with rustic wood and draped canvases, and added glittering chandeliers above.

None other than Christy Turlington closed out the runway show of Lauren’s Spring 2024 women's collection, the 53-year-old supermodel looking regal in a one-shouldered gown in shiny gold. As is Lauren’s way, he combined luxury and casual throughout, showing sleek metallic looks and lacy evening dresses along with his beloved denim, for example a long floral embellished denim skirt, or a jean jacket adorned with rhinestones, feathers and embroidery.

Lauren addressed that variety in remarks emailed to The Associated Press, saying the woman he designs for “dresses for who she is on a particular day.” This collection, he said, was “inspired by her individuality — all the ways she can express herself through color, texture, contradictions.” It was his Lauren's first NY Fashion Week show since 2019.

Lopez, Moore, Keaton and Amanda Seyfried sat together in one row, Keaton grooving to the music. Nearby sat actors Keri Russell and Matthew Rhys, near Kaling. Other guests included Ariana DeBose, Rachel Brosnahan, Robin Wright and singer Sheryl Crow. Fellow designer Thom Browne was seated near Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

After the fashion show, big wooden barn-like doors opened from the runway “artist’s loft” to a huge barnlike room — inspired by Lauren’s ranch in Colorado — with long tables laden with pink roses and candles, where guests dined on lobster salad, filet mignon and grilled branzino.

Kaling said in an interview that she'd become a fan of the designer through her immigrant parents. “For them, if you wore Ralph Lauren, you had made it, you know, and so that became popularized in my house with Polo Ralph Lauren. So I love being here. It makes me feel really connected to my roots.”

Brosnahan said she admired Lauren's clothes because they lasted for many years and contributed to sustainability. “Some of my favorite Ralph sweaters are 15, 20 years old,” the actor said, “beautiful cashmere sweaters. We're having a conversation about sustainable fashion right now, and you can have less things if they're beautiful and they last a long time.”

Model Sofia Richie said she admired the designer’s consistency. “Through the years and years ... he’s stayed true to his designs and the kind of woman that he dresses,” she said.



Gucci-owner Kering's Shares Down 5% after Q1 Sales Disappoint

A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
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Gucci-owner Kering's Shares Down 5% after Q1 Sales Disappoint

A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo
A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo

Shares of Kering traded down 5% in European morning trade on Thursday, after the group reported a first-quarter sales drop that was worse than analysts' expectations.

Kering after the market close on Wednesday posted a 14% decline in sales, with a 25% drop at flagship label Gucci, the latest signal the luxury sector faces another tough year.

The sales report confirmed "a weakening backdrop" since February, said analysts at Jefferies, noting "the uncertainties around reigniting Gucci's desirability remain plentiful".

The brand, which accounts for around two-thirds of group profits, is betting on in-house talent Demna to revive sales, but new designs will only arrive gradually at the end of the year, Reuters reported.

The French luxury group flagged worsening sales in North America and Western Europe and said it expected sales to continue to fall in double digits, percentage-wise, in the second quarter, before starting to improve.

This leaves the "heavy lifting" for the second half, which will likely depend on a recovery in Chinese demand, noted analysts at Bernstein.

Prospects for the luxury industry, which had pinned hopes on growth from the United States to help pull it out of a slump as the Chinese market remains weak, have been darkened by recession fears prompted by US President Donald Trump's tariff announcements.

As trade tensions have risen, Bellwether LVMH has fallen 23% and Burberry and Kering have both lost 30% since the start of the year. Hermes and Cartier-owner Richemont, viewed by analysts as better insulated from economic downturns because of their wealthier clientele, are up 1% and 3%, respectively.

First-quarter reports from Kering's larger rivals last week also reflected the sector's slowdown and disappointed investors, with sales at LVMH's fashion and leather goods division down 5% while Hermes, which routinely outpaces expectations with double-digit growth, posted a 7% rise.

Analysts at Deutsche Bank on Thursday lowered their 2025 earnings per share estimate for Kering this year by 13% to 8.65 euros ($9.84), citing the company's cautious outlook for the first half, and noting the slowdown in all regions except Asia was slightly worse than peers.

TD Cowen lowered sales forecasts for Gucci this year by 15% to a 20% decline.

The analysts added that Gucci, as well as another Kering label Yves Saint Laurent, were expected to be slower to raise prices to offset tariffs than peers. The Kering labels have a broader base of less-wealthy clients who are more reluctant to splash out in a choppy economic environment.

LVMH, meanwhile, has raised prices of some Louis Vuitton handbags and leather goods by around 4% according to Bernstein and Barclays, while Hermes said it will pass on the full effect of tariffs to shoppers in the United States on May 1.

US tariffs could include a 20% charge on European fashion and leather goods and 31% for Swiss-produced watches if fully applied, but Trump earlier this month paused most of his tariffs for 90 days, setting a general 10% duty rate instead.

The price hikes from Vuitton are "more than enough" to offset even 20% tariffs, said Bernstein.